E30 Zone

Just started my full restoration of my 1986 325i and wanted to share some unorganized photo's of my work so far.

Lots of rust and nasty bits but nothing too bad. I'm going for a factory finish with maybe just a few updated/upgraded parts.

I will be writing a full write up post in the near future.

For now all the images can be found in imgur album for anyone interested.

Cheers!


- Oldest at the bottom.

Looking forward to this !but cant see pics and is it rolling on 14" cos rear wheel gap looks big

Thanks for letting me know. It should work now, I just verified my email. They are 15's and I always thought that myself. In this photo it has apex 30mm springs in it. Old ones at that. I don't know really. Going for coilovers on this one but keeping the original equipment also.

I look forward to updating you!

great bunch of pics. good luck with it.

Cheers!

An update on some things I've been getting on with.

Engine is ready to come out, loom should follow and then its on to the much needed body work

I do love a crusty corner

Watching this with interest, love a good resto thread

It has been a while, but they look like a 50 profile tyre rather than a 55.

Potentially you have either 195/ 50 or 205/50 whereas it should be 205/55.

Well Jon, I think you might be right.. I always did wonder why I had such a gap. Cheers. And cheers jim. Got a colossal amount of photo's. Thinking of writing up something proper soon!

jimbom30cab wrote:Watching this with interest, love a good resto thread

+1

Like a broken clock, you have to be right at some point.

Time to take the engine out. First engine removal I have done, so was kind of nervous.





Whilst the back was in the daylight I could see the rusty back a bit better.. Not to bad ay!









Back to the engine. After some faffing it starting to lift.














Clearing the gearbox with ratchet straps seemed the best way.



And it's out!





Now where do I put this thing..





And I leave it there for today. Quite proud of myself considering I've never done that before. But it was super easy going. No major issues or accidents. After a few more bits are out its on to the chassis pulling, body work and paint removal.

Updates soon!

Nice!

Can't beat the excitement of getting it all out, freshening it up and getting it back in knowing its done!

Looking forward to seeing more updates on this!

It was a great feeling once it was out. Quite tense on the way out though

Cheers, I hope to keep them regular

Good luck buddy,looking forward to more updates.

Cheers fb.

Looking for peoples opinions here. Is a repainted car worth more or less than one with bad original paint? I'm planning on having this repainted in the original colour after all of the body work is done. I'm having all the work done properly.. (no filler) and will be able to prove this after its done with probably about 2000 photo's.

I was reading on here the other day that some people would rather have the original paint job if they are going to pay 20k plus for one.

What do you guys think?

Stevieabz wrote:Cheers fb.

Looking for people opinions here. Is a repainted car worth more or less than one with bad original paint? I'm planning on having this repainted in the original colour after all of the body work is done. I'm having all the work done properly.. (no filler) and will be able to prove this after its done with probably about 2000 photo's.

I was reading on here the other day that some people would rather have the original paint job if they are going to pay 20k plus for one.

What do you guys think?

20k for a car with 25+ years paint? I doubt that very much lol or the person is mad!

I can only see it being an issue if the colour is changed from the original spec.

If i had to choose between a car that's been restored and freshly painted and a tatty 25+ year old paint work I know which one I'd choose lol

Don't see any issues with 25+years paint if the car has been well cared for over the years.I have a 25 yr M-tec2 with original paint that's in excellent condition,includes under all body kit etc.

Sure, I can totally see your point there fb.

Mine's a bit far from well cared for

Small update.

Got the gearbox off the engine today. Was wondering if anyone could give me advice on getting this lump of an engine onto my engine stand?

Are there any special bolts I can get for an M20? And could someone recommend the holes I need to attach to. I have a standard 4 prong engine stand. I think I need quite long custom bolts?

Cheers.

Facelift bumper bolts are the perfect size for a 4 arm engine stand using the holes where the gearbox bolts to.

Thanks Jim,

Any idea where I can get these bolts from?

Also would the 4 11mm holes do? There are so many holes and only 4 to choose from.

I cut some M12 threaded rod into 4 pieces to use for engine bolts. Got the engine on the stand and out the way.






Engine looks pretty clean, can't wait to Jizzer all over it and get it clean.

And then came the loom.







Holy shit. Getting this back in is going to a job to say the least. If anyone has any experience of putting an entire loom back. please hit me up if you have time. I plan to re-wrap the entire thing and replace anything that needs it.

Nearly there!





First casualty - £32



Second casualty - £59



And the loom is out apart from the brake master cylinder that is firmly held in place by the mounts and pipes going to it.



I guess its time to disconnect and drain the brakes and move onto body work

For and on the record.. I am not a professional mechanic and have never restored a car before. Anything I can't do, I will be outsources to professionals. Although, I hope you guys will guide me through stuff when I need it.

Cheers, updates soon.

Wiring loom is an easy job! Make sure you wrap it with the correct slightly adhesive cloth tape - don't be tempted to use adhesive PVC tape, apart from either side of branches.
Both your 'casualties' are readily available second hand, or the complex servo valve can be permanently ditched in favour of the simpler M40/42/E34/36 type valve (which will also require the later type convoluted big air hose and a T shaped ICV.)

Thanks Brian.

I have many of these. Tessa is good right?



As for the broken bits. I will look around and see what I can find. Shiny new ones would look nice though..

That tape looks like the right stuff.
Cleaned up second hand M/C cap and servo valve will be indistinguishable from new. They're not exactly wearing parts, or likely to suffer from corrosion.

Very true.

Thanks again Brian.

I know you'll be helping me again on this one.. that's for sure.

A while back




After cleaning and getting ready for blasting.
Steel plasters everywhere. Not one proper job on her.
















Now at a waiting point. Waiting for brackets to turn up to get her on the jig for a bit of pulling. And then saving a little for the blasting and etching of everything.

Can't wait.

good read

i take it the cat was "supervising"??

Oh she's the only thing keeping the operation together!

Me and my friend made this working prototype blasting cabinet and I'm getting on with restoring all of the bits whilst I wait of the shell to be pulled and blasted.















Not yet finished but good results after the first run






Cracking on nicely!

Anyone know where I could get this sticker for the power brake from?

Kos on here sells all the stickers, they are good as new

Ah very cool thanks. I'll get in touch.

epic job, there.
well done !
you'l av a fully restored car there,