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Latvian E30

Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 10:52 pm
by Rob_farmer
I have bought an E30 in very bad state, but willing to give it another chance.

I`m planning to to full rebuild starting at end of November. Currently sourcing parts - all 4 electric windows, electric sunroof, 370mm mtech 2 wheel, full OBC, electric sport seats, Z3M rear, bigger brakes, S50B30 engine, 6 speed gearbox, heated washers/mirrors/locks, drivers armrest +full respray and interior retrim.

Seller had relay go dead, so before you start a car, you had to press a button so that fuel pump starts sending some fuel :D That was fixed on my way back home after I bought a car.
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First thing I did:
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Fitted missing caps:
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Fitted missing safety belts:
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Fitted console without casettes:
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Changing exhaust:

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Will keep you posted guys how I get on :)

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:53 pm
by Rob_farmer
Bought an Mtech 2 rear spoiler. In white, but will be resprayed anyway with a whole car.

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 9:26 pm
by Rob_farmer
Guys,

Is this a original mtech 2 front bumper? Without bumper inserts/moldings?
http://bmw-e30.net/wp-content/uploads/2 ... M_0158.jpg

I currently have one with bumper trim, but don`t like it at all, this one without looks so much better.

Is it possible to swap my current rear seat for two seater?

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s91/ ... C_0002.jpg

http://ipocars.com/imgs/a/e/s/o/n/bmw__ ... _4_lgw.jpg

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:08 pm
by Rob_farmer

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 3:49 pm
by Rich320I
2 seat rear will fit, the only difference is the corners in 4 doors are more rounded to aid getting in ad out the rear, i had a 2 door seat in mine no problems at all.

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 12:12 pm
by Rob_farmer
After speaking to quite few people who have rebuilt e30`s, turns out I`m being too optimistic regarding timescale. Most of them saying it will take minimum half year to a year to have fully rebuild mint E30 8O Because there is always something missing, stopping and you get stuck at some bits. So for that reason, I have to get this black one sorted a bit more, so it lasts for my project time whilst building other one. Ordered wheel bearing assembly for front as there is a play. Also ordered, clutch release bearing is doing click click click when clutch pedal engaged.

Whilst driving on motoray few days ago, my front tyre went loud BANG and blew up. I had slightly low pressure and drove for half a day, then inflated to normal pressure and it lasted just few miles :D Whilst replacing tyres, did rear balancing too - turns out I was driving just on bolts, there were no plastic spacer rings at the back on both wheels :eek: Fitted.

But my biggest worry/question is - what to do with engine ?! The more I speak with bmw fans, the more confused I get. They split in two groups:

1. One side saying if I fit S50B32 or even B30, then my shell will last just few months and whole geometry will be gone as e30 is not designed to handle such torque and power, its simply not strong enough, cups will separate themselves from shell :?: Also I would need super expensive staged clutch, fitting some expensive thin plates in rear diff which cost around 500. I would need roll cage to stop body moving around. Etc etc. Basically - don`t go there and don`t do this unless you are building track car.

2. Other side is saying - go for it, E30 M3 Evo had 235bhp(and shell is identical even to 316) and just 86 bhp more won`t be any different, shells are engineered with reserve anyway. Just get the front, rear, bottom strut braces . Even a standard clutch would be able to handle this power. Drive shafts would have to be upgraded to much thicker ones from E36 323 Compact or Z3 M :?: Gearbox would have to be changed to bigger and more robust ZF 5 speed as 6 speed boxes from E36 M3 Evo are too weak. Brakes would have to be uprated to bigger ones.

Guys, any comments? I want B32.

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 12:41 pm
by Rich320I
whole section of the website regarding engine swaps heres a link to the s50 area:

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... forum&f=58

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 12:42 pm
by Rob_farmer
Rich320I wrote:whole section of the website regarding engine swaps heres a link to the s50 area:

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... forum&f=58
Posted: :)
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=243042

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 1:14 pm
by Speedtouch
With all due respect, if I were to do such a conversion, I'd opt for the 2-door as they are stiffer.

Note, the M3 only came in a 2-door, for good reason. :wink:

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 7:11 pm
by Rob_farmer
Bought shortest available steering rack from 2002 Z3, just done 60k miles, as new. Super happy, paid just 300.

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 1:35 pm
by Rob_farmer
Rich320I wrote:2 seat rear will fit, the only difference is the corners in 4 doors are more rounded to aid getting in ad out the rear, i had a 2 door seat in mine no problems at all.
Any chance you have a photo of how they look from side with door open ?

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:25 pm
by Rich320I
Rob_farmer wrote:
Rich320I wrote:2 seat rear will fit, the only difference is the corners in 4 doors are more rounded to aid getting in ad out the rear, i had a 2 door seat in mine no problems at all.
Any chance you have a photo of how they look from side with door open ?
i don't unfortunately, the difference is negligible IMO, i sold the car a few weeks ago.

Re: Latvian E30

Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:36 pm
by Rob_farmer
Will it fit from cabrio as well? Or just m3 two seater?

Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 5:54 pm
by Rob_farmer
Bouth another set of front seats, these look absolutely fantastic.

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Also got full mtech 2 OEM body kit, rear roller blind, cruise control kit, German number plate with: E30

Got to know the leather guy who does BMW interiors - he will create me rear two seater like M3 has, but for my saloon :)

Re:

Posted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 8:00 pm
by Rob_farmer
Received my mtech 2 body kit - its figerglass replica for £470 :x :( If seller agrees to sort it out, I`ll leave it alone, otherwise I`ll post full story and details in feedback section. Been in such a bad mood today due to this event, absolutely shocked and terrified :(

Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:37 am
by Rob_farmer
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Re:

Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:40 am
by zd3bx
Those seats look MEGA :D I like them.

Re:

Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 12:07 pm
by Rob_farmer
Badge :)

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Re:

Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 12:11 pm
by Rob_farmer
8) 8) 8)

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Re:

Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 5:29 pm
by Rob_farmer
This is where I am now 8)

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Rust on sunroof:
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Just amazing, making hole for speakers with axe ?!
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Quite happy with shell, have seen much worse. Its 1990, so some rust is allowed :D

Re:

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:16 pm
by Rob_farmer
Got rid of some additional stuff today 8)

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Re:

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:13 pm
by Rob_farmer
Ready for launch :D

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Made a grill today

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Finally on side. Got rid off fuel tank, fuel and brake pipes.

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Re:

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:42 pm
by Sanchez
Proper resto :D

Posted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 8:01 am
by Rob_farmer
Thanks Santa :D

Diff with LSD, 3.64 in medium case, new LSD plates fitted, sand blasted/powder coated, 3 new seals, new poly bush.

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And got some all red tail lights.

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Re:

Posted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 12:44 pm
by Gert_8
Wow!! This is going to be an epic job! :)

Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:49 pm
by Rob_farmer
Decided to take if off and I was right, some rust spots found. After 2hrs my grinder died, getting new one tomorrow.

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Re:

Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:12 pm
by Speedtouch
Looks like one of your wishbone lollipop bolts has sheared off in the captive nut.

I would try MIG-welding a nut or bolt to it - the heat should help crack it loose.

Re:

Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:20 pm
by Rob_farmer
Speedtouch wrote:Looks like one of your wishbone lollipop bolts has sheared off in the captive nut.

I would try MIG-welding a nut or bolt to it - the heat should help crack it loose.
Well spotted :) It was so rusty, didn`t even need to apply force, just snapped off. Rest of them were fine.

Re:

Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:30 pm
by Speedtouch
Try applying some penetrating fluid, such as PlusGas, or diesel to it and leave a few days.

Re:

Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 4:12 pm
by Rob_farmer
abcd

Re:

Posted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 6:12 pm
by Rob_farmer
That factory stuff is strong - angle grinder died. Getting new grinder on Monday to carry on. 70% already finished.

Re:

Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 9:06 pm
by Rob_farmer
Got new angle grinder, work can carry on. Not much left. Got something in my eye today, those damn pins from wire brush are flying all around, seeing doctor tomorrow.

Few rust spots have appeared from under factory sealant. Some places I simply cannot get into with wirebrush disc. I`m thinking of heat gun which painters use.

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Pockets are raped, will need replacing.

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Re:

Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:19 pm
by minimatan
What a job. Fantastic effort!