E30 Zone

Hi
so, after having different type of cars:
Honda Civic (basically go-cart, lowered 50mil)
Honda Accord Coupe (engine swap to an import from Japan)
Golf mk3 GTI
Corrado 1,8 16v
Audi A6 2,5tdi Quattro
and some company cars (back in home country)

So the car. Well it's my first bmw, first RWD.



known faults so far: rear arch massively corroded


I dunno how is this thing called


Rust patches on sunroof
have to change steering rack
some bushes front and rear
and closer to spring full respray, cause the color is faded and scratches from keys/nails all over both sides of car from front wing till rear light...

some positive things, engine so far seems pulling awesome (knock on wood) although will do full service e.g. spark plugs filters, valve cover seal
recently fitted new exhaust
no rust underneath


near future plans

change steering rack (waiting in mailbox)
poly bushes (have to find which ones)
sort out rusted rear arch and that bit near bumper
idea of lowering by some 40mil (maybe apex kit, or some cheaper coil overs) I will see, cause it all adds up

and install ICE

my goodie bag


alpine+ Kenwood





well, that's about it
so far...

Original drivers seat was broken, so buckets are in

Welcome.

Welcome to the Zone!

I once had a 1988 325iSE - great car.

And, you can always liven them up quite nicely with a chip.

Rav335uk wrote:Welcome.

thanks

read about yours' rocket and recent work...

Speedtouch wrote:Welcome to the Zone!

I once had a 1988 325iSE - great car.

And, you can always liven them up quite nicely with a chip.

how much torque you can gain from it? I don't think that more than 25-30Nm is possible.

IMO, in power case - engine rebuild, so all ponies, which escaped in these 22 years would come back to stable and then maybe chip to straighten torque line, so there are no downs, just diagonal up
But honestly, I don't know where all this (can't call it project) is going
had two projects in my life, both were Hondas:

civic

and Accord coupe 95'
2,2vtec 200Nm


still thinking about different styles, right now I like this one


maybe something like that, but I am not sure that I will try to get mtec
also, really don't have the space to do the job, just at my friends

I will see where it goes, will I get bmw disease or not

BMW disease LOL

Welcome

Duke137 wrote:BMW disease LOL

Welcome

It's like: it's not what you drive, it's what drives you

as English is just my 3rd language and I don't know it excellent, that is why I didn't know how to describe it. (I don't know a lot of sayings, etc.) Problem with fwd - there is no reason to get from car more than 230Nm, Straight line is not fun. bmw is different, even though mine is stock, I got it sideways so easy

Would those alloys look ok on e30

The chips I sell give the following gains:

EcoTorq M20B25 Mild; 7-11bhp gain, significantly enhances the torque for driveability/improved fuel economy (expect at least an extra 2-3mpg average) and eliminates flat spots, also a 6900rpm rev limit. An ideal blend for daily motoring, also works well with automatics.

M20B25 Wild; 8-15bhp gain, up to 192bhp if combined with 268/268 cam, BBTB and six-branch as per Alpina C2 2.5 spec, 7000rpm rev limit. Best suited for fast road/track day use. Alternatively, a 6500rpm rev limit can be specified.

I personally tested the Mild in my 325iSE, and it dramatically improves the torque, reducing the 0-60mph time from the standard 7.5-8 seconds to a little under 7 seconds, and gave an indicated 140 mph flat out, yet would easily return 30 mpg when driven gently.

Plenty on here have BMW disease mate! Fit whatever wheels you want to YOUR car

blondboy84 wrote:

Rav335uk wrote:Welcome.

thanks

read about yours' rocket and recent work...

Thanks, more to come yet

so...
today changed broken steering rack (fingers crossed that it was that leaky part)

and I am looking for coilovers.

who knows something about JOM coils?
Maybe something else?
your suggestions?

New wheels:


It's now my BMW jeep. Ok, it got a bit lower, but still...
Now I will need to lower car by I dunno 60/40 or 40/30 and proper tyres...

Any advice on that?

With those rubber band tyres, 60/40 would suit it, but you'll be at risk of cracking the sump.

So, I would go with 40/40 or 40/30, or maybe just fit a set of -15mm Sport springs.

Hi mate,

I have a set of 30mm Eibach springs available in the parts for sale section.

Your other order will be with you Wednesday

Nobby_N wrote:

Whaaaaat?

Speedtouch wrote:With those rubber band tyres, 60/40 would suit it, but you'll be at risk of cracking the sump.

So, I would go with 40/40 or 40/30, or maybe just fit a set of -15mm Sport springs.

Agree

gap from tyre to arch is 8cm, with proper tyres would be 2 cm less.

40/40 or 40/30 will be still too high at least with these tyres on.
it's just 60/40 and shocks

As in future tyres will be changed, I am thinking about RPM:
Gaz coils
Sump guard
Uprated top mounts

strut braces.

now speedometer lies - on motorway instead of 70 is 62 at the same revs.
as I drive it 1-2 times a week, not concerned about fuel economy - fakk the fuel economy.

Meatballs82 wrote:Hi mate,

I have a set of 30mm Eibach springs available in the parts for sale section.

Your other order will be with you Wednesday

If car gets lowered by 30mm, I can still be ok with stock shocks?

Yes, stock shocks should be OK with up to 40mm lowering springs.

blondboy84 wrote:

Meatballs82 wrote:Hi mate,

I have a set of 30mm Eibach springs available in the parts for sale section.

Your other order will be with you Wednesday

If car gets lowered by 30mm, I can still be ok with stock shocks?

I have these springs on standard shocks and the ride is spot on

some goodies came yesterday


Some arrived today from Eurocarparts

Next week is going to be busy

thanks to Matt (btw still thinking about lowering or coilover set - had one GAZ GHA coilover offer from zoner)

looks ok

In last few (three) days did some stuff
poly bushes full kit
Eibach lowering springs
Changed propshafts' coupling, gearbox mounts, gearbox seals, diff oil, new rear discs, pads.
Sounds like not much done, but omg, to get of that rear beam, and then install new bushes


I have just a few photos

changed some bushes in front + lowered springs


got out rear beam to change bushes


final result (so far)

Good progress

Great progress blondboy, was nice to meet you the other day. You got that skid pan fitted yet??

mcbonio wrote:Great progress blondboy, was nice to meet you the other day. You got that skid pan fitted yet??

Yeah. Had a long chat and a tea too, thanks.

no, I didn't have time for that yet. Maybe on monday or thursday. Still a lot to do. Oil changes, timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, rocker cover gasket and strut brace, and I.C.E.

Hi, Good to see another E30 owner in Warrington. What else have you been doing since your last post?

Craggy73 wrote:Hi, Good to see another E30 owner in Warrington. What else have you been doing since your last post?

hmm, another: who else is here?

not much
just fitted Magnum back box

it was too cold outside and I don't have a decent place, where to work on car

in near future:
timing belt etc
IS aftermarket front lip
gaz rear shocks
shadowline
alarm

so the near future is here

I need some advice:

I'll be changing
Alternator belt, timing belt, water pump, will flush radiator, spark plugs, valve cover gasket, rear shocks.
What else should I change, buy?
Distributor cap, rotor?
for rear shocks top mounts from e46m3, anything else I should worry about?
will be adjusting valve clearances.

So, any advice?

Cheers

Good idea to check the dizzy cap and rotor arm; most E30s I've bought have still had the manky 20+ year old originals!

what's about crank sensor?
and that spring for timing belt tensioner?

If the engine still runs OK, then the crank sensor is fine - it is just a coil of wire (inductive loop), so not much to go wrong with it.

But yes, a new cambelt tensioner is a good idea if you are changing the belt.

If you are buying a new water pump from BMW, take the old one back as they give you a discount of about £20 for it, even if it's a non-BMW part.

Speedtouch wrote:If the engine still runs OK, then the crank sensor is fine - it is just a coil of wire (inductive loop), so not much to go wrong with it.

But yes, a new cambelt tensioner is a good idea if you are changing the belt.

If you are buying a new water pump from BMW, take the old one back as they give you a discount of about £20 for it, even if it's a non-BMW part.

I have everything
thermostat too

that cambelt tensioner I have it too, but still have to get that spring for it. I read that it's recommended to change it too