
325i Cabby Project/Resto -Small update 18-11-10
Moderator: martauto
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Ollie_bwoii
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What does this mean exactly? How do you act "original equipment from manufacturer"?FMH wrote:who acts all oem.
My my resorting to childish insults now your backed into a corner after the realisation has hit home that you are a dumb c*nt who got ripped off and now you are back peddaling to suit your argument and try and save face from being ripped off!FMH wrote:Not in the same league., i wouldn't want to be, cause you are just a bloody retard, who acts all oem. Face it, your car is a heap of sh*t but it suits you so its all good.bss325i wrote:Because its a bit rich coming from a chump like you having a dig about some rust and the price he payed for it!FMH wrote:I rather drive a obvious replica than make a silly coupe look like it was loaded with all optional extras.
And i commented on his car, on his post, why the hell do you need to be a **** and bring something else in to it.
Grow up.
Whats more silly is your "replica" is clearly scrap and you were mugged to the tune of 5 grand for it yet you have the cheek to have a dig calling it a rusty shitter or words to those effect and then have the gall to brag that you may have got it cheaper.
You cant even bring my car into it, your not even in the same league!
I'm not even going to bother arguing the point of paying what i did for it, cause what i told everyone was bullsh*t. I paid a fraction of that.
Now go sit in the corner and weep like a b*tch that you are.
You are clearly the retard to even say that my car is a heap of shit and just goes to show that you know f*ck all but then that was obvious when you bought that scrap!
You are just another Imy, a talker who does nothing but buy scrap.
Its like arguing with a tenage chav, LAME!
Nice PM from FMH,
Do one you clown!
As i said, like arguing with a teenage Chav.FMH wrote:just shut the fuk up u prick
Do one you clown!
The car was offer to you for less then what i payed?FMH wrote:I rather drive a obvious replica than make a silly coupe look like it was loaded with all optional extras.bss325i wrote:A bit of rust is alot easier to sort that two bodged on halfs of M3 rear quarters!FMH wrote: Attached to a heap of rust, knowing you can get a better one for biscuits. This cab was offered to me for less than he paid, but i refused it as i sensed it needed too much. Oh well, good luck with it anyway.
And i commented on his car, on his post, why the hell do you need to be a **** and bring something else in to it.
Grow up.
Learn some grammar and punctuation you idiot!FMH wrote:chav, look who's talking!
you started with insults and before you comment again, learn how the fu*k to spell.
No, you started with the insults buy having a dig a Alex buy calling his car a rust bucket.
Now you've dragged me into this tit for tat bulshit.
I've said all i need to say, everyone thinks what im saying anyway!
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Blitz
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I'll sell it to you as I think my speedo just needs SI batteries. I'll test first if its all working properly.Alex wrote:i think blitz is sorting me out with some,i just need the speedo unitOllie_bwoii wrote:and it fires up again.
![]()
Nice work though Alex, will definately be a "turd" to be proud of when done. Wish I had a project as well as a daily.![]()
BTW you still after some clocks? There is a set I just noticed on ebay BIN for a tenner or something like that.
Although i'am going to focus on the rust mainly now
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Alex
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FMH wrote:Did you not offer it to me for £150 when i needed an auto engine and box!andreia wrote: The car was offer to you for less then what i payed?What are you going on about.
I was offered it for 150 but andy had someone who was paying the full price picking it up the next day so i offered to pay the full price to secure it
Wow how did I miss all that. I like to wade in to these arguments normally. 
Barry it's happening more and more these fooking gimps just won't go away.
@ 'I didn't pay 5 bags I was just bullsh1ting. Haha jog on you got your pants pulled right down.
Alex Cleveland pannels in the Boro do a rear pannel for about £50. Just wack primer on it till it gets paint.
Barry it's happening more and more these fooking gimps just won't go away.
Alex Cleveland pannels in the Boro do a rear pannel for about £50. Just wack primer on it till it gets paint.

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- Royalratch
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Doh! Went to early!
Barry - why are you getting in a row with a Brummie coal miner - you can never come out clean!
I'm all for random abuse but there is an etiquette and art to it lacking in FMH's approach.
Alex, see what happens when you start messing with M20s...
Barry - why are you getting in a row with a Brummie coal miner - you can never come out clean!
I'm all for random abuse but there is an etiquette and art to it lacking in FMH's approach.
Alex, see what happens when you start messing with M20s...
You are just another Imy, a talker who does nothing but buy scrap.
poor Imy.
Phase I - Bodywork Complete
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... by+restore
Phase II - 2.8 stroker- Complete
Project II - 325 Motorsport Cabriolet Restoration.
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Phase II - 2.8 stroker- Complete
Project II - 325 Motorsport Cabriolet Restoration.
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Alex
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Royalratch wrote:Doh! Went to early!
Barry - why are you getting in a row with a Brummie coal miner - you can never come out clean!
I'm all for random abuse but there is an etiquette and art to it lacking in FMH's approach.
Alex, see what happens when you start messing with M20s...
Going to start ordering some panels, Hardest thing will be to get it all welded up as i have no electricity there, may have to move it back home for that
- Royalratch
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Or take it to a welder lol!
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ImysE30
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Woah, you need to chill out guy's 
Good luck with it Alex, should be a minter once you've completed it
Hopefully the rust isn't too bad
Oh and Barry, you don't need to bring my name into this topic mate, no need for it
Good luck with it Alex, should be a minter once you've completed it
Oh and Barry, you don't need to bring my name into this topic mate, no need for it
Current Fleet:
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
Alex - Brave man for tackling this on!
Threads like this actually give inspiration to folk who need alot less work restoring their car - Ahem
!
I was going to buy some of that rust primer to touch up some bits on the car on the weekend. Had a go at fitting in the lights i ordered from rav -only to notice the right hand side driver light area has a rust hole which was very very badly treated by some previous cowboy. Don't know whether you fill it up [rather not] or to have a proper weld job done on it. Will get a thread going soon with pics etc as any advice would be helpful
And oh - bss325i's car might be standard [prefer the term genuine
], but even i can respect and admire low milage quality!
Would love to see it in person Barry
Threads like this actually give inspiration to folk who need alot less work restoring their car - Ahem
I was going to buy some of that rust primer to touch up some bits on the car on the weekend. Had a go at fitting in the lights i ordered from rav -only to notice the right hand side driver light area has a rust hole which was very very badly treated by some previous cowboy. Don't know whether you fill it up [rather not] or to have a proper weld job done on it. Will get a thread going soon with pics etc as any advice would be helpful
And oh - bss325i's car might be standard [prefer the term genuine
Would love to see it in person Barry
Alex I'm not trying to piss on your work but unless that rust is grind or cut out it won't take long to come back, sanding and wire brush will not go deep enough to get rid of the rust.
I would hate to see all your hard work go to waste.
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Alex
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A break down of the rust is as followsImysE30 wrote:Woah, you need to chill out guy's
Good luck with it Alex, should be a minter once you've completed itHopefully the rust isn't too bad
![]()
Oh and Barry, you don't need to bring my name into this topic mate, no need for it
Possibly New rear panel
New drivers side Cubby pocket in boot along with New Lower Right quarter
Drivers side Inner arch needs either a plate or a new section welding in at the front ive not dug into it much
Drivers side outer arch could do with a new lip
Above the sill on drivers side where lower long bit of trim goes, needs a long plate putting in it may even grind back to smooth bare metal ?
Inside the door shut needs a plate welding flush
ive always wanted to have a bit of a resto so why not? Most people would scrap it. People weld worse tech 1s back together, and i would imagine most sports or original tech I and II fitted cars out there are hiding a lot of rust that the owners dont even know about
its all on the drivers side, the passanger side doesnt even have a small pin head scab around the inner arches or outer arches
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Alex
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You are correct, kind of rushed thatSteve wrote:Alex I'm not trying to pee pee on your work but unless that rust is grind or cut out it won't take long to come back, sanding and wire brush will not go deep enough to get rid of the rust.
I would hate to see all your hard work go to waste.
To be fair the anit rust primer isnt the correct thing to use either
Once i get myself a cordless grinder i will re do it
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Alex
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Ive just purchased this from bmminiparts for £52.59 Deliverd
Cabby rear inner arch for drivers side, i think there around £70 from the dealers?
i will probably only require the front section of it

this is what the inner arch currently looks like at the bottom, goes all the way up

Cabby rear inner arch for drivers side, i think there around £70 from the dealers?
i will probably only require the front section of it

this is what the inner arch currently looks like at the bottom, goes all the way up

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ImysE30
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That is some rustAlex wrote:A break down of the rust is as followsImysE30 wrote:Woah, you need to chill out guy's
Good luck with it Alex, should be a minter once you've completed itHopefully the rust isn't too bad
![]()
Oh and Barry, you don't need to bring my name into this topic mate, no need for it
Possibly New rear panel
New drivers side Cubby pocket in boot along with New Lower Right quarter
Drivers side Inner arch needs either a plate or a new section welding in at the front ive not dug into it much
Drivers side outer arch could do with a new lip
Above the sill on drivers side where lower long bit of trim goes, needs a long plate putting in it may even grind back to smooth bare metal ?
Inside the door shut needs a plate welding flush
ive always wanted to have a bit of a resto so why not? Most people would scrap it. People weld worse tech 1s back together, and i would imagine most sports or original tech I and II fitted cars out there are hiding a lot of rust that the owners dont even know about
its all on the drivers side, the passanger side doesnt even have a small pin head scab around the inner arches or outer arches
Mine is no where near as rusty, must be lucky
Keep it going
Current Fleet:
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
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Rav335uk
- E30 Zone Meets/Events Team

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Good job you ordered those lights from me then, otherwise you would never have noticed.E30NutUK wrote:Alex - Brave man for tackling this on!
Threads like this actually give inspiration to folk who need alot less work restoring their car - Ahem!
I was going to buy some of that rust primer to touch up some bits on the car on the weekend. Had a go at fitting in the lights i ordered from Rav -only to notice the right hand side driver light area has a rust hole which was very very badly treated by some previous cowboy. Don't know whether you fill it up [rather not] or to have a proper weld job done on it. Will get a thread going soon with pics etc as any advice would be helpful![]()
And oh - bss325i's car might be standard [prefer the term genuine], but even i can respect and admire low milage quality!
Would love to see it in person Barry

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
I did fit them on and they looked superRav335uk wrote:Good job you ordered those lights from me then, otherwise you would never have noticed.E30NutUK wrote:Alex - Brave man for tackling this on!
Threads like this actually give inspiration to folk who need alot less work restoring their car - Ahem!
I was going to buy some of that rust primer to touch up some bits on the car on the weekend. Had a go at fitting in the lights i ordered from Rav -only to notice the right hand side driver light area has a rust hole which was very very badly treated by some previous cowboy. Don't know whether you fill it up [rather not] or to have a proper weld job done on it. Will get a thread going soon with pics etc as any advice would be helpful![]()
And oh - bss325i's car might be standard [prefer the term genuine], but even i can respect and admire low milage quality!
Would love to see it in person Barry
did not want to picture them just yet as everything else around them is a bit tatty..once I've got this rear light panel sorted ill have some pics!
btw rav - hear you are doing some smoked headlights? PM me
sorrry for jackin' your thread alex!
I heard the arches were hotspotsThe footwells are hot spots, luckly there good on this
bare metal is always best, if there are any holes new metal will need to go in
I'am learning too
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Blitz
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I've got that primer in a aerosol. I though it was just just a primer with anti rust properties. Obviously all rust has to be removed before using it.Alex wrote:You are correct, kind of rushed thatSteve wrote:Alex I'm not trying to pee pee on your work but unless that rust is grind or cut out it won't take long to come back, sanding and wire brush will not go deep enough to get rid of the rust.
I would hate to see all your hard work go to waste.
To be fair the anit rust primer isnt the correct thing to use either![]()
Once i get myself a cordless grinder i will re do it
You could use this to remove it 100% as long as its not terminal.
http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html
and this before paint
http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate80.html
User thread
http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... 081&page=2
Quite expensive but the tubs last a long time. There probably one of the best. I've heard only good things about them. There Waxoyl alternative is suppose to be the best as well.






