E30 Zone

I can open my drivers door with the key but cann't lock it.
i read somewhere on here that i need to bend something to get it to lock.
My question is what part do i have to bend?

It's a 1989 325


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=40&hl=76

I had this recently ordered a new lock barrel kit £15.00 from the parts man on here and rebuilt the barrel sorted

Car-Nut wrote:I had this recently ordered a new lock barrel kit £15.00 from the parts man on here and rebuilt the barrel sorted

Thats an option.

Anyone know which bit i bend before i buy a new barrel.

The steel forks from the door catch that fit around the L shaped piece alloy piece on the back of the key barrel.
Door lock barrel needs to be taken out and serviced first though.

Thanks Brian

Hi there. I've just rebuilt my door lock barrel with the service kit, remounted it, but am still getting a problem where the door doesn't want to lock. What exactly do I need to adjust to get it to pull the button down sufficiently to lock?

Bump. Search function, Haynes, the workshop manual on here are all far from clear

I've not tried to fix mines yet Chris as car is in the garage getting some tlc .
Keep the thread updated if you get yours sorted.

It's a matter of getting in there and studying how it all works. Once you understand it, the problem, and cure should be obvious. (Or at least my posts on the subject should make more sense!)

Hi Brian. Haven't got this licked yet, as I actually need to pump the key to get the button to go down enough for a 'full lock'! Any tips? At all? Cheers...

Also trying to fix the electrical side of the c/locking. Followed the tech guide on this site, and I'm not getting any clicking relays when I turn the key. Have just done red/black wire mod, and situation is still the same. Is the best course now really to spend £70 on a new relay box? I did examine it, and couldn't find anything immediately wrong.

When the central locking is fully working, as soon as the drivers door lock starts to move the latch mechanism, it activates the locking motor, and this takes over and finishes the movement.
Without the central locking, the driver's door should still lock on the key, but will feel relatively heavy all the way.
Have you opened up the locking module? Press the two relays inside it momentarily, one at a time. One should lock the doors, the other, unlock them.

Hi Brian. The locking motor is obviously not working. The key does lock and unlock the door, but none of the others and does feel heavy. I have opened the locking module (box behind the speaker panel right?) but neither relay is doing anything...

Connect a 12volt lamp (NOT a meter) between the red/black wire and the brown wire at the locking ECU's socket.
Does it light?

No light. As long as you mean the socket that plugs into the same box where the two relays are...

Thanks for having a go at taking this on Brian!

Try the light between the red/black wire and a good body earth (ECU bracket), just to confirm that the problem isn't with the earth wire. I suspect the results will be the same.
If so, your problem (or at least an important part of it) lies with the power feed to the locking.
First of all check fuse 27, then, if it's easily accessible, connect the lamp between the joint you made when you modified the red/black wires and earth.

no light under any of those conditions and the fuse is fine...

Remove the panel above the glovebox (two quarter turn buttons and a self tapping screw), and check for power at the accessories socket at the back, on the pin directly below the four pin radio plug.
Are you sure you've done the red/black wire modification correctly?

I know it might sound basic, but i had the same problem. Sprayed some 3 in 1 oil into the lock mechanism and barrel. Has worked since.

Red and black wire mod as I understand it - take rubber boot off connector in door close, take connector out, find two red and black wires, cut em and solder them together.... Oh and the lamp definitely works btw ;)

Yes, power at point you said above, lamp lights.

Chris_ wrote:Red and black wire mod as I understand it - take rubber boot off connector in door close, take connector out, find two red and black wires, cut em and solder them together....

I think we may have found the problem! The two red black wires that you cut and join are the ones behind the socket for the door plug - the bit that stays in the hinge pillar when you pull the plug out. When joined, you should be able to pull the join out of the hole where the speaker fits.

Er, doh...

Good God it was enough fun trying to get the red black wires out of the door end of the plug.. never mind out of the car end Back in a mo I hope, with fully working c/locking...

Arf. A mo. There's power at the drivers door now, can hear it, but the passenger door still doesn't want to lock! Another thrilling installment soon I'm sure. Thanks for your guidance Brian, look forward to the next thing I've got to try

Check the passenger door plug and socket for corrosion.
It's important that the rubber boot is fitted back onto the plug properly before the plug is pushed back into the socket. This applies to the driver's side as well, which you have recently had apart.
A good helping of silicon grease on the pins doesn't go amiss, either.

SUCCESS! Had the passenger door apart, put grease on everything, put it all back together again, and hey presto it seems to work. Thanks a lot Brian, your help has been very much appreciated.

Chris.

FAILURE! Drivers side electric window's stopped working on the way home from work. What have I done then?

If you've actually seperated the driver's door plug, rather than just doing the red/black wire chop behind the speaker then I'd bet real money (not that photocopied stuff I try to use at the shops!) that you'll be into replacing all the pins in that now they've been disturbed & no doubt disintegrated.

Saying that, you could just give the plug a spray & a wiggle where it goes into the pillar & hope for the best...

Chris_ wrote:FAILURE! Drivers side electric window's stopped working on the way home from work. What have I done then?

Very possibly a poor connection in the door loom plug and socket, since you've had this apart. Otherwise, if the passenger window works, it's probably the switch.
Swap the switches over as a test.

Thanks guys, sorry for the delay in replying, been away. Since coming back however, the window's started working again.. Think it's just tempremental, it's failed to work for about 30 secs once before. No doubt it'll break again once I've reattached the door card

Next job is fit the stereo, more electrics, hurrah!

Brianmoooore wrote:Remove the panel above the glovebox (two quarter turn buttons and a self tapping screw), and check for power at the accessories socket at the back, on the pin directly below the four pin radio plug.
Are you sure you've done the red/black wire modification correctly?

Having a go at this today and i'm getting power to the pin below the 4 pin plug.
But there is nothing connected to it.(is this right or should there be a plug connector in there?

Is this the reason i have no power at the red and black wire behind the drivers speaker?

Right i'm getting somewhere now i think.

If i take a live to the red and black wires that are joined for the central locking modification the central locking opens and locks the doors from the passenger door.

So i'm guessing there should be a plug somewhere to connect to the pin behind the glovebox but i can't see it anywhere.


Would it be ok to take a live from somewhere else and join it at the red and black in the drivers speaker well?

This is doing my nut and i still have to fix the drivers door lock

The socket at the accessories connector is for the OBC alarm function and nothing to do with the locking as such, but power here proves that the relevant fuse and its holder are OK, and the red/black wire down to as far as a soldered joint behind the glovebox, where the wire to the accessories socket tees off.
The red/black wire goes from this soldered joint all the way back the LH sill, across the rear seat, and all the way over the RH sill to the door pillar socket - one of the one's you should have cut off.
If all you say is correct, then this wire must be broken, but this is unlikely, as its part of a loom.
Are you sure you've done the red/black wire modification properly, with the correct wires? You must have got one of them correct though, for the locking to work when you apply power to the join.

Brian i've had it all working at one point.
I've done the red /black mod as of smithy318i's guide.I changed the motor in the drivers door and took power from the
6 button gong and it was working fine when operating the drivers door button(still have problem with door lock).

I've just put the door card back and tried it again,now the 6 button and the central locking isn't working and the passenger and back doors are dead locked.

More headache.

The car isn't starting now.When you turn the key it sound like rapid ticking.It was starting fine before during and after i started this nightmare.

Pllease help me

Sound like the battery is flat ?

This is getting worse.
Got it started fine now the rev counter isn't working along with the 6 button(all fuses seen fine)