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Newbie - with 325i Touring 1991
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:10 pm
by sigtouring325i
Hi Guys,
I am new here, I have a 325i Touring in lazer blue?
I want to restore the car, it really needs a re-spray and has 182k on the
clock.
I am really looking for some pointers from somebody who has already restored a tourer.
Do I need a new engine first then a re-spray or can the current engine be
re-built?
I also want to install some leather interior to the car - can you get leather
seats with rear headrests on this model? mine is a 1991 e30 Touring.
Also can I fit bigger wheels to the car - I want to use BMW wheels
Thanks
Sig
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:17 pm
by darkchild
Welcome to the Zone!
You should be able to get a leather interior for your Touring (with rear headrests) relatively easily. Whether it will be in good nick is another thing! Keep an eye on the parts for sale section on here.
What wheels are on the car at the moment? You can't go wrong with a nice set of 15" BBS' IMO.
Re:
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:26 pm
by fuzzy
welcome cant answer your engine question without knowing whats wrong but all the other questions are yes and yes

.
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:35 pm
by sigtouring325i
Cheers Guys,
Yes it currently has 15" BBS BMW wheels, looking through the service history it appears to have been well looked after.
The only problem is the coolant system. The computer coolant light is permantely lit. I have topped up the coolant several times, but after a month or so the gauge creeps back up again to near red.
The engine runs really well, and the performance is great, although there is some oil leaking onto the top of the engine. Does it need a new sump gasket?
I will post some pictures of the car before I start work on it.
Also does anyone know of electrical problems with this model. Sometimes the interior lights work and other times not.
Cheers
Sig
Re:
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:45 pm
by Morat
You're going to need to find out where that coolant is going. It could be a leak in the rad/hoses/cap (btw, get yourself a new cap from the dealer for about £6, it should have been changed under recall but you can't really be sure) which is just dripping out somewhere. Or more expensively it could be a failed headgasket which will mean that you need to replace it. Check for sludgy deposits in the radiator cap and/or oil filler cap.
Everything can be fixed, its a matter of time and money as to what route you take.
Re:
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:55 pm
by murran
keep the orig. bbs.....
coolant light perm. lit, doesnt go out when topped up? goes out when topped up but level drops then light back on? coolant doesnt have a guage as such.......... unsure what you mean.
the sump is the bottom of the engine with the oil sat in it. you mean the rocker/cam cover gasket.
interior lights.........
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... ic&t=88376
do another thread search if this doesnt help......... try to search the forum threads using the search thingy in the bar at the top, then by all means start a new thread if you cant find what you need........
Re:
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:57 pm
by Morat
heh, good point! Is the coolant level actually dropping? keep a close eye on the levels on the expansion tank and keep it spot on. DO NOT over heat the car whatever you do, you can be pretty sure of a warped head if you spend any time in the red.
Re:
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:05 pm
by murran
Morat wrote:heh, good point! Is the coolant level actually dropping? keep a close eye on the levels on the expansion tank and keep it spot on. DO NOT over heat the car whatever you do, you can be pretty sure of a warped head if you spend any time in the red.
the actual level light is on the overhead display, comes on with the check light flashing on the clocks.
the coolant guage is showing engine temparature not an indication of how much you have left! like the petrol guage!!
think hes on about an overheating fault??! then when its been overheating its steaming out the coolant......... then he notices the coolants actually low when he checks it!

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:24 pm
by sigtouring325i
The coolant light is perm on on the computer by the sun roof, however the coolant needs topping up monthly as the temp. gauge increases a few weeks after topping up.
Even after toppin up the coolant light stays on perm. Its propbaly two separate problems, first a leak in the coolant system, and secondly an electric/sensor problem with the coolant indicator on the computer.
cheers guys
Re: Newbie - with 325i Touring 1991
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 11:06 pm
by Brianmoooore
sigtouring325i wrote:and has 182k on the
clock.Do I need a new engine first then a re-spray or can the current engine be
re-built?
The engine you have, unless it's been damaged by overheating, or its servicing badly neglected, should be good for another 100,000 miles at least. As much as a brand new Ford engine!
It is essential you sort the cooling system! First thing to do is to pull the electrical connector off the coolant bottle, and use a piece of wire to short the two pins of the socket on the wire together. Turn on the ignition switch, press the brake pedal, and all the LEDs in the roof panel should be out, and the 'check' light in the middle of the instrument cluster should stop flashing.
If the light stays out, then get a new sensor for the coolant bottle ASAP.
Can be bought from GSF/Eurocarparts, your local BMW dealer, or zimmerbimmer1, our tame BMW dealer, on here, with his 'genuine BMW parts' section.
In the meantime, it is critical that you keep a close eye on both the water level in the coolant tank, and the temperature gauge. It is rare to get away with overheating this engine even once!
The correct level for the coolant in the tank is level with the join halfway up, but don't get paranoid about keeping it exactly there. It can drop right to the bottom of the tank directly underneath the filler before you begin to get problems.
If the level continues to drop far below the correct level, then there is a leak, which can either be inside the engine (serious) or external to the engine (not so serious).
Look around for signs of evaporated antifreeze as a first step, but some slow leaks can be very hard to find.
For the interior lights problem, unscrew the single self tapping screw that holds the door pin switches in place, pull them out, disconnect the wires (Don't let them spring back through the hole!), and clean the switch up.
They are two identical switches in one, so it doesn't matter which wire goes back on which terminal.
Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 11:13 am
by sigtouring325i
Thanks very much Brianmooore that is a big help, as I now know what to
do.
Thanks again
Sig