E30 Zone

There have been a few posts recently about starting issues with e30's. I have had my own problems as well!!

My car is a 1991 325i, car began to run a bit suspicious on a few occasions by under revving and feeling as though it was going to stall, then one day (4 days ago) it would not start.

The car turns over as though it is going to start but it will not. I replaced the CPS sensor as my old one was a bit suspect as it seemed to be loose on the sensor side. The car still does not start.

When I turn the ignition I can hear the fuel pump click and the ICV can be heard. The fuel relay clicks as well.

I have replaced the ICV and fuel relay with working ones and still no start. I have joined the wires (80+37) and can hear a click.

The inlet manifold connections seem to be fine.

I can smell petrol while cranking the car and when I took the spark plugs out, they had petrol on them. I cleaned them and put them back in, the car did momentarily start but even with the throttle down, it turned off.

The throttle click can be heard when depressing the accelerator.

I have changed the ignition coil with a working one and still no success.

I opened the distributor cap and removed the rotor arm and found a couple of cracks on the rotor arm but would they stop the car from starting?

There is also very little corrosion around the tips of the distributor cap.

Would the blue temp sensor affect the car on start-up?

The blue sensor can/will seriously affect fuelling if faulty, but IME, they are often replaced regardless "just in case" - they are cheap enough.

Sounds like you may be flooded. New plugs, FULLY charged batt, and start with your throttle wide open. Keep cranking if it is firing, don't do short bursts as it will aggravate the problem.

A little pitting on the rotor arm and cap is normal, but if cracked definitely replace this first!

thanks..

so new rotor arm, blue temp sensor and plugs...

When you mean 'throttle wide open' does that just mean full foot down on accelerator?

are you getting current going to the spark plugs? test this with a spark plug tester, if you do not have one then insert a screw driver in the no1 h.t lead and hold the metal of the driver very very close to any earth or body of the car and see if you get sparks? but i definitely recommend changing the rotor arm.

Brenner5 wrote:thanks..
When you mean 'throttle wide open' does that just mean full foot down on accelerator?

Yes, foot to the floor.

Should also have said, (as above) is there a spark at the plug when it's removed?

Is the carbon button in the middle of the inside of the distributor cap in good order?

Brianmoooore wrote:Is the carbon button in the middle of the inside of the distributor cap in good order?

yep, that seems fine, it's currently black but I'll give it a quick clean..

Black is the usual colour for carbon in its graphite form.

Quick update...

Replaced rotor arm, blue and brown temp sensors and it's done the job, car started and running great now...

i used the old plugs as the shop gave me the wrong spark plugs

Thanks for all the help!!