Page 1 of 1
Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 4:48 pm
by Raf17
Could anyone reccomend the best way to change a sump. I got hold of one today finally but when i came to take my one off i couldn't get at one of the bolts and i seem to remember reading that you need to raise the engine. I don't have a hoist so that could be difficult so does anyone know any other way of going about it?
Cheers Raf.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:01 pm
by Raf17
Forgot to mention it's a 1.6i m40 job.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:20 pm
by eko
You could get an engine brace that secures across the wing tops and allows you to raise the engine slightly.
Think they cost around £50 at machinemart or similar,maybe able to hire/borrow one?
Or you could just support the car on axle stands and lower the front crossmember,depends how spanner friendly you are though?
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:25 pm
by E30Mark
Where are you Raf? I have an engine brace if you need one to borrow. I'm in Wimborne, Dorset...
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:39 pm
by Raf17
I'm down in kent unfortunatly. So theres no other way of doing it than raising the engine or lowering the subframe. I was looking at it today trying to weigh up what to do and was gonna try lowering the subframe but it was starting to get dark. How/how hard is it to do? I'm pretty good with the spanners (if i do say so myself

) but i have never done this on a beemer or any rwd car for that matter, so it's all abit alien to me.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:45 pm
by eko
To lower subframe is probably a bit more work to be honest,take about an hour to do before you even start unbolting the sump!
Personally id buy/borrow an engine brace/hoist

Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:47 pm
by Raf17
is there no way of unbolting the engine mounts and jacking the engine up?
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:48 pm
by eko
Raf17 wrote:is there no way of unbolting the engine mounts and jacking the engine up?
Yes but how you going to jack the engine up with no sump?
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:52 pm
by Raf17
haha, you have a valid point there sir. Hmm looks like i'm gonna have to hire a hoist then. Grrr, when i busted it i thought ahh sumps got a hole in it that'll be a 20 minute job. Couldn't have been more wrong.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:55 pm
by eko
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:57 pm
by Raf17
looks like a worthy investment actually, cheers. Will have to see what my dad reckons on it cause i'm pretty skint.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:26 pm
by Raf17
Ok so i'm thinking i'll get hold of one of those engine braces but my dad is saying would it not be possible to jack the engine up from the bell housing?
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:30 pm
by Nelly
You can jack it from the bottom of the pulley assembly but, it's a risky situ due to it being able to rock to one side when raised - - - - - highly unstable i think is the correct term lol.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:37 pm
by HairyScreech
jack the sump up and then suport the botom of the bell housing with a jack and stick a lil somthing between the mounts and the subframe.
if you can get it off for shits or giggles then just ondo the oil pump through the gap.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:42 pm
by Nelly
Hold on, M40 sumps are 2 piece - do you definatly need to replace the main part of it or just the pan it's self??
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=10
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:43 pm
by Raf17
I see, so what if i jacked up the engine put a couple of blocks between the mounts and then let the engine rest on them so i have the clearance to change the sump then jack the engine up again whip the blocks out and bobs your uncle?

Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:46 pm
by Nelly
Raf17 wrote:I see, so what if i jacked up the engine put a couple of blocks between the mounts and then let the engine rest on them so i have the clearance to change the sump then jack the engine up again whip the blocks out and bobs your uncle?

Yep, that'll work - you might want to release the rad mounts as well because, depending how far the engine needs to traval will determine how much play you have in the collant pipes

Re: Changing sump
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:57 pm
by Raf17
Alright cool, cheers for your help guys, i'll let you knwo how it goes.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:02 pm
by Raf17
ok so only had about an hour free today so couldn't do much but thought i would unbolt the mounts at least, first one came off fine, but the second one loosened slightly but now the actual 'bolt' going through the mount is just turning so i can't undo the nut. What can i do? Nothing ever works does it

Re: Changing sump
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:45 pm
by eko
Raf17 wrote: the second one loosened slightly but now the actual 'bolt' going through the mount is just turning so i can't undo the nut. What can i do? Nothing ever works does it

Pretty sure its a seperate stud either side of the rubber mate
What you could do is tighten that nut back up and remove the nut holding the rubber mount to the crossmember.Easy enough to get to underneath with a deep 17mm socket and an extension bar.With the weight of the engine putting pressure on the rubber it will come off easy enough!
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:52 pm
by Raf17
Yeah was thinking of just undoing it from another place and leaving that mount alone but my problem then is that that mount is a little loose now and i cant tighten it cause the stud just spins. only think i can think of doing is jacking up the engine to take up that bit of loosness so theres alot of pressure on it and then trying to tighten it.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:55 pm
by eko
Raf17 wrote:Yeah was thinking of just undoing it from another place and leaving that mount alone but my problem then is that that mount is a little loose now and i cant tighten it cause the stud just spins. only think i can think of doing is jacking up the engine to take up that bit of loosness so theres alot of pressure on it and then trying to tighten it.
Worth a try jacking up a bit.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:57 pm
by maxfield
I have this lovely job this weekend. Only the bottom pan though.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:02 pm
by Raf17
maxfield wrote:I have this lovely job this weekend. Only the bottom pan though.
Bottom part is a 10 minute job

I thought i would only have to do the bottom bit but then when i took off what was left of the bottom part i discovered it had taken some of the top part with it

Will try the jacking it up tomorrow if that don't work it's gonna hafta meet my buddy A. Grinder

Re: Changing sump
Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 2:05 pm
by Raf17
Ok getting real annoyed with this now. Managed to release both engine mounts and have raised the engine buts it's only raised it like an inch and half or so and now instead of just lifting the engine its taking the car up with it. Can't really work out why but it means that i can't quite get the sump clear. Only need like another half inch and it'll be out. Anyone got any advice?
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 4:15 pm
by eko
Maybe by dropping the gearbox mounting it will enable the engine to `tilt` that little bit more?
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 4:20 pm
by Nelly
Or undo the oil pump as well which is what the sump will be catching on, 3X 13mm bolts iirc.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 4:37 pm
by handpaper
Loosen the gearbox mounts - don't remove them or you'll have a crap time getting it all lined up again. Also, you can lift the engine by jacking under the exhaust manifold with a lump of 4x2 on the jack.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 9:48 pm
by Raf17
Haha cheers for the advice guys but was none of the above, i had forgot to undo the engine mount dampener things (Dave

) so when they reached there max travel they pulled the car up with it. Anyway shes back on the road again now finally. Cheers for everyones help!
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 11:39 pm
by Nelly
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:05 am
by maxel
? wait a minute, if it's a m40 its easy, i did it and there are 3 steps that you have to remember, if you skip one you cannot get the job done.
1. Unscrew the bolts
2. Change oil pan
3. Screw bolts
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:56 pm
by Raf17
maxel wrote:? wait a minute, if it's a m40 its easy, i did it and there are 3 steps that you have to remember, if you skip one you cannot get the job done.
1. Unscrew the bolts
2. Change oil pan
3. Screw bolts
Pah, did you do the top and bottom parts of the sump? If you did both parts that easily you are some degree of magician!
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:28 pm
by maxel
just the lower one
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:35 pm
by MJG
That'll be the gearbox on the bulkhead. Try loosening the gearbox mount and jacking up the front at the same time to let the front of the engine twist. Might be best to use the trolley jack on the gearbox, undo the mount, lower the gearbox slowly (engine will tilt on it's mounts) keeping an eye on how tight everything is like the clutch line and the prop, gear selector and the exhaust etc. Then rest the gearbox on something and remove the jack. Then go back to the front and jack up the engine again and see if you get the extra clearance.
Good luck, just keep your eye on EVERYTHING that is attached to the engine/gearbox as most things won't appreciate being moved/bent out of place.
Re: Changing sump
Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:03 pm
by Raf17
MJG wrote:That'll be the gearbox on the bulkhead. Try loosening the gearbox mount and jacking up the front at the same time to let the front of the engine twist. Might be best to use the trolley jack on the gearbox, undo the mount, lower the gearbox slowly (engine will tilt on it's mounts) keeping an eye on how tight everything is like the clutch line and the prop, gear selector and the exhaust etc. Then rest the gearbox on something and remove the jack. Then go back to the front and jack up the engine again and see if you get the extra clearance.
Good luck, just keep your eye on EVERYTHING that is attached to the engine/gearbox as most things won't appreciate being moved/bent out of place.
I did it on saturday, as i posted above
