E30 Zone

I bought my 1st E30 (318is) last week with no t&t. It needs the rear bushes doing, as well as rear brake lines and front wishbone bushes.

I've started at the rear, and undone everything (diff mount, shocks, ARB) and knocked the studs back through the bush into the car as suggested on here.

But the frame is stil well and truly stuck, wont budge, and I've run out of talent/knowledge/tools, so I'm asking for some local help

So, is there anyone local to Lyme Regis (East Devon/West Dorset) who has done them before who fancies earning a few quid?

The reason I didn't get it done at the MOT garage is they wanted £400+ for the job, and I just cant afford that. I could probably stretch to about £100 if it means getting the job done, as my S13 has now gone to its new home, so I'm car-less until I get the BM on the road.

Cheers all,

Ed

ps, if you are interested in earning some readies, call me on 07799 767 268

My local garage quoted 2 hrs per side for the rear trailing arm bushes @£29/hr!!!

Fritz Bits could do it, but I don't know what their hourly rate is...

bimmaman wrote:My local garage quoted 2 hrs per side for the rear trailing arm bushes @£29/hr!!!

Where's that chap?

bimmaman wrote: Fritz Bits could do it, but I don't know what their hourly rate is...

Who? Sorry I'm new to BMW's, being used to Nissans which you can take apart with your teeth

if you want to come up to London I'll happily do them for not much £Â£....you would need to provide tools n stands though...I do have a secured car park to do it in though. I am a kiwi in UK...missing working on E30s a bit! would also need a fire making device of some description. I do have a Halfords 5 mins walk away.

Would probably take a weekend afternoon?

No tax or MOT mate (or insurance yet) so driving it isn't an option

http://www.fritzsbits.co.uk/

RandomDave off the zone works there, and does a top job...

yeah he done mine a treat, took about 2 hours! PM him.

Turbo....Quick tip for you to try,may just save you that few quid

Make sure you have the beam suitably secured with a trolley jack.
Use a decent drift/bar(i use 3/8 socket extension bar) and poke it up the hole of the bush.
Now proceed to hit the drift/rod from side to side,front to back untill it starts to loosen.
It will need a good few smacks I expect,they usually do but it should eventually come loose,then do the other side.
Basically the centre tube of the bush gets stuck tight in the hole.
Be very carefull though because the end of the centre(alloy i think) can shear off in the hole and can be a right b4stard to remove whats left!

Ive used the above method many times(including today) with a good result everytime,just be patient with it and mind your fingers

bimmaman wrote:http://www.fritzsbits.co.uk/

RandomDave off the zone works there, and does a top job...

I'll message him now, cheers

eko wrote:Turbo....Quick tip for you to try,may just save you that few quid

Make sure you have the beam suitably secured with a trolley jack.
Use a decent drift/bar(i use 3/8 socket extension bar) and poke it up the hole of the bush.
Now proceed to hit the drift/rod from side to side,front to back untill it starts to loosen.
It will need a good few smacks I expect,they usually do but it should eventually come loose,then do the other side.
Basically the centre tube of the bush gets stuck tight in the hole.
Be very carefull though because the end of the centre(alloy i think) can shear off in the hole and can be a right b4stard to remove whats left!

Ive used the above method many times(including today) with a good result everytime,just be patient with it and mind your fingers

I'll give that a try too, nice one

Cut up through the bushes with a hole saw of an appropriate size. (The sort plumbers and sparkys use.) This will release the subframe and allow you to get violent with the centre alloy part.

Tried that this lunvh time, but my hole saw's are only 20-30mm deep, so wont cut all the way up through

Also tried the socket set extension bar method, with no luck.

Am I too assume there is no-one about who can do this? Dont really want to start re-assembling everything to take it to a garage if there is someone who can come to me

^ Turbo,ive just removed another complete rear beam(finished about 10 mins ago).
It clearly hasnt been off for a good few years so everything was either very tight/rusty/siezed including the bushes into the chassis as yours is
I went ahead with the `extension bar` method as explained above.Passenger side came out fairly easily but the drivers side was a pig.
ended up shearing off into the chassis(first time ever for me).
Dragged the full beam out of the way and tackled getting the snapped piece out.
Using a freshly sharpened chisel and decent lump hammer it took me about 20 minutes to get out.

What im trying to get at mate is dont give up.
If I can do it on my back in a driveway with 60% incline and freezing cold then so can you!!!!!

turbo-tastic wrote: but my hole saw's are only 20-30mm deep, so wont cut all the way up through

Mine needs washers between the arbor and cutter to get the absolute maximum depth, and will nearly cut all the way through. Enough so that I can rip the remainder, normally.
If you can't get in far enough, then grind away the centre alloy bush so that it will go deeper. Use a couple of different size cutters as well to remove as much rubber as possible.
Are you really prepared to surrender to a piece of alloy and rubber?? Get violent!

Brianmoooore wrote: Are you really prepared to surrender to a piece of alloy and rubber?? Get violent!

He's not wrong - just when you think that there is no way they'll come out....