E30 Zone

325i -runs great when cold but after a run and up to temperature runs very lumpy and almost cuts out -
recently i have replaced plugs leads dizzy cap rotor arm air filter but to no avail

any ideas

Blue temp sensor, or a poor connection in the injector loom plug and socket under the inlet manifold that the temp sensor signal passes through.
ECU thinks the engine is still cold, so it's over fuelling.

thanks suspected that sensor where can i get one from ?

Eurocarparts, GSF, or our newly opened , brand new "Genuine BMW parts department"

right need help again fellas

this moring i replaced both temp sensors blue and brown ,car was hard to start but did eventually ,left it running for about 10 mins in garage came back and the revs were up to 2000 ,tried to rev the engine and it cut out and now wont start not even sounding like its trying to start just turning over and now i have a buzzing coming from a black cylinder thing on top of the inlet manifold which has a connector attached to it ...

idle control valve?

well im not sure ,it has started again now eventually and is running ok ... im puzzled

Plug and socket for the injectors under the inlet manifold. Look under the lower rubber boot, as well as at the pins.

ok done that now starting better but the idle is all over the place between 800 and 2000 ideas please

air leak??? check your vacuum hoses.

have checked that now the revs got stuck at 2000 and wouldnt budge no mattter what i done so turned engine off and now wont start again ....

i spoke to ant the other day and he said about the vertical breather stack(inlet to sump) if the o rings have gone it will cause the engine to run shit, someone please correct me if im wrong.
have you cleaned out the icv and afm??

where can i find that ?

think its sorted just about to test drive ,the cylinder thing which was buzzing i took it off and cleaned it inside with carb cleaner loads of black crap came out put it back on started straight away and idling well .

not sorted ,
cut out again at traffic lights wouldnt restart for about 5 mins then no probs again got me home ,
im leaving it for today but any other suggestions would be appreciated .

It was twenty two minutes from when I suggested checking out the injector plug to when you reported it back as done.
I couldn't even do the necessary dismantling in that time!
More thorough check required.

the plug i found was a round one under the inlet mainfold after removing the rubber section has 6 pins and was clipped on with a spring clip thing is this not the correct one ?

Did you fix this? Was tps at fault?

sort of its not 100% right but a AFM helped

Thats interesting as so many people say afm is ignored at idle which confuses me as why would you then have a co by pass screw to leak air passed it at idle? If not used at idle why would need to by pass it? You might want to have a look at my idle posts see if anything helps I don't believe that a low hunting idle would have anything to do with vacuum leaks but an idle jumping to 2000rpm sounds like tps sensor as if you unplug it thats there my idle sits at.

Give the inside of the throttle a good clean and the valve/butterfly.

its not idling lumpy anymore just difficult to start from cold

What do the spark plugs look like ?

have seen better ,but dizzy and rotor arm and plugs are new and a new battery

If you just hold the thottle open slightly does it start any better and when it does start does it idle a little low like 700rpm? As this is what mine does and as it warms up the idle gets lower to about 600rpm then it will some times hunt 500-800 slowly. I'm coming to the conclusion that my icv is abit poo at certain opening angles even though it passes all the usual tests.

What colour were the old plugs ?
If you have a haynes manual it will have a couple of colour pages with a chart showing you weather its running rich or lean.

Please keep us informed as to your progress.