E30 Zone

Is this possible?

I have a 'L' shaped Idle Control Valve on my 1988 325i.

Dont know if there is any point to this but i was just wondering.

Cheers.

It's possible with the matching hoses and possibly mounting bracket.

Is the mounting bracket where the icv is plugged in from?

And is there any benifits to this change?

Thanks.

i switched them on my 320i a while ago, can't remember which way I swapped them though, was all that I could find from a scrappy. With a change of the main rubber inlet hose, it'll fit fine.

I wouldn't think there's any benefit though, as far as i know, they all do the same job if they work!

Ok cool thanks.

The only reason i ask is i remember when i first got the car and a guy took one look at the engine and commented on the ICV being the "wrong one".

I might just change it for the hell of it now.

Cheers.

If your idle is good I really wouldn't tempt fate...

My idle is all over the place Morat. Im going to stick the old air box back in to replace the ITG cone filter to see if that makes a difference. Might be the AFM?

What is your idle doing? High? Low? surging? what is part throttle response like and have you checked out your TPS?

I'd check the TPS. No point in swapping the ICV without good reason - they do the same job.

My idle is a shambles at the moment. It revs high then really low as if its about to cut out. On occasions you can drive along, pull up to a set of traffic lights and the revs will drop and the car will cut out.

This has all started to happen after i stuck a second hand throttle body in. Idle has not been the same since.

I have not checked the TPS. Its under the TB but what am i looking for in a dodgy TPS?

Thanks.

Hi, i have recently changed my 325 icv from an 'T' to an 'L'. my idle was all over the place and as mentioned above it was all i could find at the scrappy.
i switched them and now my problem is cured.
Have you tried cleaning your original first? If not then undo the connector and bracket, remove from the hoses and clean it out with WD40. if at all possible blow it threw with an air line or to try and free it off.
Hope that helps you

Giggz wrote:My idle is a shambles at the moment. It revs high then really low as if its about to cut out. On occasions you can drive along, pull up to a set of traffic lights and the revs will drop and the car will cut out.

This has all started to happen after i stuck a second hand throttle body in. Idle has not been the same since.

I have not checked the TPS. Its under the TB but what am i looking for in a dodgy TPS?

Thanks.

Have you adjusted the idle screw?

I have tried cleaning it but it was with carb cleaner!

I must confess, the gasket that is between the throttle body and inlet manifold has a crack in it? Could this be the culprit?

Oh yes

even if you have a nut that isnt entirly bolted up right the engine will run groggy.
I'm pretty sure this is going to be your fault.

Pottersbmw wrote:

Giggz wrote:My idle is a shambles at the moment. It revs high then really low as if its about to cut out. On occasions you can drive along, pull up to a set of traffic lights and the revs will drop and the car will cut out.

This has all started to happen after i stuck a second hand throttle body in. Idle has not been the same since.

I have not checked the TPS. Its under the TB but what am i looking for in a dodgy TPS?

Thanks.

Have you adjusted the idle screw?

In a desperate attempt at getting a "quick fix" i did tamper with the idle screw and i know i shouldnt have as it is set at factory setting and i just f**ked it up!

the gasket that is between the throttle body and inlet manifold has a crack in it

That's where I'd put my money

Nice one guys. Hope this will sort it all out.

Spray WD40 or use a propane torch around the cracked gasket, and see if the idle changes. But do check the TPS. It should "click", when the throttle is let go. This is the signal to the ECU to tell it to use the ICV. Without it, the ICV wont do anything. Put a meter on it, and see if it makes contact (search for details).

Nice one Flappysocks. I will give that WD40 trick a go tomorrow. I'll listen out for the click from the TPS also.

Ok so i started the car up and it was behaving fine. Revs were high but thats because of my stupidity and messing with the idle screw. Left it for it for a bit to warm up and revs were at 1000rpm so i messed with the idle screw again! brought the reves down just under 1000rpm and it was running ok. I then sprayed some WD40 around the throttle body and the irratic idle began again. Does this give an idea of what the cause is?

Thanks.

Did you check the TPS? You should also check the blue temp sensor. Not much point in going further until you have done so.

Stuart.

FlappySocks wrote:Did you check the TPS? You should also check the blue temp sensor. Not much point in going further until you have done so.

Stuart.

I just tried to listen out for the "click" from the TPS and as far as i can make out i can not hear nothing. I have not changed the blue temp sensor but i think its working as i have just found out a bloody leak coming from a pipe at the front of the car and my temp gauge went straight to red!!! Its all going wrong!!!

No click means it's not working, but hearing a click doesn't mean it is. You need to get a meter on it.
And some new hoses as well by the sound of it! Check the pressure cap has been replaced under the recall.

Brianmoooore wrote:No click means it's not working, but hearing a click doesn't mean it is. You need to get a meter on it.
And some new hoses as well by the sound of it! Check the pressure cap has been replaced under the recall.

Well i loosened the jubilee clip on the leaking pipe and adjusted the pipe tightened the jubilee clip started the engine and there was no apparent leak but the temp gauge went straight to red again though!

Brian what do you mean when you say check the pressure cap under the recall?

Thanks.

There was a recall on the pressure caps, originals were'nt upto much, the bottom should be yellow and rated at 140.

Mine is not yellow, but it does say 140 on the top of it?

Giggz wrote:Brian what do you mean when you say check the pressure cap under the recall?

Recall R/1997/068 issued on 16/02/1998. Refers to the coolant pressure cap causing excess pressure in the cooling system. Safety part of it was that it blows heater valves apart and dumps boiling water on the passengers legs.
No E30 should be running with it's original pressure cap, but plenty are because the recall was issued over four years after production ended and many E30s were on their umpteenth owner by then and long since ceased being dealer serviced.
The new caps supplied by my local dealer all have yellow plastic discs on their bottom sides, but apparently their are others around that have a black base but different writing on them.
Check with your dealer! That's what they are there for.

Giggz wrote:Well i loosened the jubilee clip on the leaking pipe and adjusted the pipe tightened the jubilee clip started the engine and there was no apparent leak but the temp gauge went straight to red again though!

M20B25s aren't famous for giving you a second chance if you overheat them! The head will crack at the slightest provocation.
Is there any heat output from the heater?

So in a nut shell what you are saying is that all this could be down to a insufficent pressure cap?

I will let the car cool down and see if mine has a yellow under belly.

And i dont get no heat from the vent when sitting in traffic but i do when the car is moving. Please dont tell me this is because of an air lock or something because i have lost count that amoutn of times and the amount of people who bled the cooling system.

If the car is airlocked you will crack the head! You cannot take liberties with these engines and expect them to remain working!
Airlock only has to be cleared once after it's refilled.If it needs doing more than once the head gasket has failed and is pressurising the cooling system.

cheers brian.

to be honest i dont know why i didnt whip the head off sooner and check the gasket and have the head pressured tested and everything.

think its well overdue and time to check out the internals instead of faffing about with all the bits i can see.