E30 Zone

I dont even know if this is in the right forum but i just sprayed my bonnet white again after priming the parts i had just fillered and its gone on like dust in some places and orange peely in others.
Will this dry ok or will i need to rub it down and spray it again.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks guys.

Think you've just discovered why a respray costs £1000+!!

yep.
I done my side skirts pretty well, but the black was easy to see it goin on.
just use trial and error i spose. another tin of paint later though

what kind of paint did you use? generally you can flatten it with 1500 grit wet or dry paper, used wet, then polished with a machine polisher and compound. just don't dig in with your fingers when flattening it, using a rubbing block is safer but takes longer. if the paper sticks when using it try a wee bit of washing up liquid in your bucket of water!
hth!

half litre of cellulose, with anti bloom thinners, 50/50 but not accurately. it looked like it was goin on too thick so i put a bit more thinners in, but it still had the same problem, sprayed at 50psi aswell. Im gonna give it a light rub down with 1500 and spray it again with a really thin coat. Then compound it and tcut.
would what you've suggested get rid of the orange peel then?
bearing in mind i need to learn this as i have a boot and spoiler to do within 2 weeks.

ive not used celly paint for years! it becoming a thing of the past tbh. orange peel could be caused by either the paint being too thick, not heavy enough coats, coats too heavy, too many coats, pressure to high or to low, lots of previous paint jobs on the panel... theres no real specific cause of it, celly itself isn't the best too get a great finish either! apart from someone watching you keeping you right, it's trial and error i'm afraid

k then no worries. thanks for your help. Im sure if it goes well ill be putting pics up.
Cheers
Sparx

how comes you decided to paint in cellulose, its quite an old type of paint? but on the other hand it f*ucking nice and simple to use, with celly, as long as you get lots of paint on the panel, it doesnt matter how it looks after you have just sprayed it, obviously the flatter it looks the less work, but you can flatten the dodgy bits with wet soapy 1200/1500 paper then t cut or compound to a good finish, its very user friendly! but you dont get as good finish article as you would with lacquer! but really celly is base coat and lacquer all mixed in one! really,
try and flatten the marks out with soapy 1200/1500 paper, then t cut with a mop or it will wear you out. good luck

im only using celly as i dont know of any other. I have sprayed metallic with base coat then laquer. but i was told that with white especially i didnt need a laquer.
Thanks for your help.
Im guessing im gonna need to spray it again with a pissy coat after i have compounded the bugs out.

try flattening it 1st mate that way if you get the shit out of the paint you have had a result, if not its nice and flat for when you hit it again, good luck

As above...but i'd say if you want the best finish, go upto P2000 and flat with that, as the scratches will come out alot easier than 1500!!!...and then use something like Farecla G3 as opposed to conventional t-cut, as it's a cutting compund it will remove more scratches than most t-cuts!

Also...sounds like your prep wasn't great....guide coat your prep with a differnt colour (i.e. black if you're using white), and then flat till all spots are gone....this will ensure that you've got an even surface to spray onto....it should make it a little easier to spray, and also alot better finish!

i used grey primer, then flatted that down with 1000 i think cause thats all i had. may have been 1200.. But im spraying on a gravel drive aswell which doesnt help, with bugs and all. i compounded it twice and tcut it but its not come up well atall.
Ill get a picture up soon, you can all critisise my poor eforts

Brianmoooore wrote:Think you've just discovered why a respray costs £1000+!!

Years ago spraying truck cabs in cellulose we would have air pressure at least half what you are using you are doing it in the wrong place outside, if you have to, make sure bonnet is warm and paint is warm just leave in the sun start with 50/50 light coat let it dry 1/2 hour check for marks etc and remove then a more heavy coat to give it the colour letting it dry in between then start adding more thinners if you get good at it last coat is neat thinners
then see it shine you will never have to polish it by the way lay the bonnet flat not against a wall if it is off the car,try practicing on something first and dont rush the job!!!!

I done my side skirts pretty well, but the black was easy to see it goin on.

doing small items and areas are much easier to get a good finish

I dont even know if this is in the right forum but i just sprayed my bonnet white again after priming the parts i had just fillered and its gone on like dust in some places and orange peely in others.
Will this dry ok or will i need to rub it down and spray it again.

sand it down again to 1500 wet & dry to perfection

when painting again stand the bonnet up & make sure you can get an easy & quick reach to all areas
consistent speed & volume of paint as you swoop across the bonnet about 10-15 cm away from the bonnet

good luck
it is very difficult
i should know!!!

Turn the pressure down mate!
I paint at about 20-25psi,mostly outdoors too as I am a mobile smart repairer!
Sometimes goes on a bit dry if its a hot day though,it will flat out though as mentioned above

i flat off with some 2000 grit and then power polish with some 3M Finnese-It comes up lovely and is easy to wipe off afterwards just make sure you have enough paint on so you dont flat through

What spray gun & nozzles are you using? this will set the air pressure you need, 50 psi sounds rather high!