E30 Zone

I understand why 1.8 M40's tap and that realistically you just leave it as fixing it properly costs a lot, but what happens to them if you leave it?

Mine has got really bad lately, but im not forking out 700 for new cams on an M40, also have no time at the moment. Im just expecting something to break, but will it? Do tappets/cams break and is it dangerous, or does the noise just get louder and become overpowering? My car sounds really rough, a lot worse over the last few weeks.

Thanks for any info!

Paul

My e36 with an m40 sounds awful too, like you iv got better things to spend money on than replacing the cams! mines done 160k and nothings broken yet

Mine too, its really embarrasing. I don't think its terminal, just a characteristic. I do feel a nob crusing with the roof down looking good but sounding like its about to explode!

'93 Lux Cab

160K sounds like a great mileage for an M40. Mine is 'only' on 120k, dont think it will see 160 though!

This summer i will have 3 months from the end of A levels till uni, so i might do an engine swap, my only worry is it wont last the next 3 months i need it to, its my daily drive !

Your M3 in the other thread looks awsome by the way, perfect set up

1993E30 wrote:Mine too, its really embarrasing. I don't think its terminal, just a characteristic. I do feel a nob crusing with the roof down looking good but sounding like its about to explode!

'93 Lux Cab

Embarrasing is the word to describe it, echoing off the shops when driving through town, such a head turner lol.

I have to say i do fear for its life whenever i drive from uni to home (200 miles)

I would guess the insurance will be a prob if you change the engine (it always is for us younger drivers)

Your M3 in the other thread looks awsome by the way, perfect set up

Cheers

Do any of your cars get quiter when they've warmed up???

I added some stuff that i bought from halford (can't remember the name) that's supposed to quiten engines....and it's supposed to work when the oils warmed up (as it was really thick, and i presume it sits in the sump till the oils warm, and then begins to circulate). Anyway, when it's warmed up, mine goes alot quiter, and if i drive alot, when i'm idling(sp)...dare i say it....it's almost silent!!!

It was like a tractor when i bought it....

One thing of note though....when i first start up in the mornings...no lie...it sounds like a diesel till it's upto temp....it's really embarrasing that

I have a tubular manifold for an M40 for sale
that may make the exhaust louder so you can drown the tapping out

When mines warmer its better, cold days and wet days make it worse for some reason.

The other day i drove it and it sounded really smooth, first time in months, and now worse then ever. It seems to vary on a daily basis, but basically down hill overall.

Thing that prompted me to do this thread was sitting in McDonals drive through yesterday, and i could barly order over the noise of it echoeing off the wall/building lol.

tylerma wrote:I have a tubular manifold for an M40 for sale
that may make the exhaust louder so you can drown the tapping out

I had a loud exhaust, it make the tapping louder! Im not spending anything on this engine, i hate m40's (except your turbo special of course )

Ben i know what you mean about the engine swap, really too much hastle and the DVLA/insurance will bend me over about it.

I'm not sure if this is true....but would a K&N drown out the sound???

save the emarrasment

Thing that prompted me to do this thread was sitting in McDonals drive through yesterday, and i could barly order over the noise of it echoeing off the wall/building lol.

I know the feeling!!!

Thankfully my local Mc'ies has an open car park, so there's less echo!!!

when I got my car (316 m40) I had this problem.

I found a great solution to it.













































I put in an m20b25.

How much did that cost you???

I was considering doing it when i finish college...(1 more year to go )

What's the difference between a M40 and M20? is it 4 and 6 cylinders?

Turn your stereo up louder!!

rebuild it..... cam,rockers.tappets,new spray bar and oil filter in a kit from gsf cost me £265 it was like a 25% power increase and it does not tap any more the cam was oem and theres no need to take the head of get on with it well worth it there is only one cam and it costs £70 not £700 and its not difficult and while you are at it change the cam belt and tensioner for another £30 ....and go on for another 50k miles

gazza wrote:rebuild it..... cam,rockers.tappets,new spray bar and oil filter in a kit from gsf cost me £265 it was like a 25% power increase and it does not tap any more the cam was oem and theres no need to take the head of get on with it well worth it there is only one cam and it costs £70 not £700 and its not difficult and while you are at it change the cam belt and tensioner for another £30 ....and go on for another 50k miles

Thats a lot cheaper than i thought. But dont you need to adjust the tappets yourself, or is this only on the M20? (What i mean is dont you need particular tools/knowledge for this?)

If its that simple i may end up doing it this summer, even though i have fallen out with my M40

Cheers

no the tappets are hydraulic ...they dont need adjusting its not difficult the cam belt can be tricky if you have not done one before ,,,but not difficult and as i recall no special tools are needed....but m40 cambelts should be changed at 30.000 mile intervals .....this is often overlooked by m40 owners....the cam needs a cam locking tool to lock it and a pin to lock the flywheel either borrow it or buy one again i bought one from gsf for £9

ps no i dont work for gsf

aceraf wrote:How much did that cost you???

I was considering doing it when i finish college...(1 more year to go )

What's the difference between a M40 and M20? is it 4 and 6 cylinders?

M20 is 6 cylinders, M40 is 4.

M20B20 is 2.0 litres. M20B25 is 2.5.

The engine cost me £200. But I already had the gearbox, engine and box will be more.

Fitting it was a weekend job.

Because of my gearbox not matching, changing the loom was another days work.

Then finding out what had corroded on the new loom was another day.

Then wiring it wrong so the crank position sensor wires wore through was another days work, and another £100 odd in tow trucks...

If you do it right, 2 days work and about £3-400 quid will do it.

Its so worth it though... much better engines and more power, moooore poooower!

munky30 wrote:

aceraf wrote:How much did that cost you???

I was considering doing it when i finish college...(1 more year to go )

What's the difference between a M40 and M20? is it 4 and 6 cylinders?

M20 is 6 cylinders, M40 is 4.

M20B20 is 2.0 litres. M20B25 is 2.5.

The engine cost me £200. But I already had the gearbox, engine and box will be more.

Fitting it was a weekend job.

Because of my gearbox not matching, changing the loom was another days work.

Then finding out what had corroded on the new loom was another day.

Then wiring it wrong so the crank position sensor wires wore through was another days work, and another £100 odd in tow trucks...

If you do it right, 2 days work and about £3-400 quid will do it.

Its so worth it though... much better engines and more power, moooore poooower!

Brakes swap? Suspension swap? Dont tell me thats why your cars so low?!

Its a tourer, already got the same suspension and brakes as a 325 as far as I know.

My car is so low because I took an angle grinder to the springs.

Lazy hydraulic tappets, drain all the all out and bung in some castrol magnatec, I read this I think in TBMW it work in mine. It could the oil pump is also not giving enough pressure as it used to to get the oil up to the Hydraulic tappets quick enough on start up. Don't use thick oil additives as the oil becomes even thicker when cold and even harder for the pump to shift, the only good additive is ZX1.

munky30 wrote:

aceraf wrote:How much did that cost you???

I was considering doing it when i finish college...(1 more year to go )

What's the difference between a M40 and M20? is it 4 and 6 cylinders?

M20 is 6 cylinders, M40 is 4.

M20B20 is 2.0 litres. M20B25 is 2.5.

The engine cost me £200. But I already had the gearbox, engine and box will be more.

Fitting it was a weekend job.

Because of my gearbox not matching, changing the loom was another days work.

Then finding out what had corroded on the new loom was another day.

Then wiring it wrong so the crank position sensor wires wore through was another days work, and another £100 odd in tow trucks...

If you do it right, 2 days work and about £3-400 quid will do it.

Its so worth it though... much better engines and more power, moooore poooower!

If i still have this e30 (why most likely i will) after 2 years, then i'm definately gona do it....only problem is I aint got a drive/garage, and wouldn't have anywhere to do the transplant!!!!

I was hoping of talking some zoners into helping me out closer to the time!!!

I did mine in my car park. The neighbours loved me flushing the coolant without an exhaust on.... 15 minutes at fast idle

When it comes to doing it, give me a shout. Mine went a bit tits up but that was more due to me learning as I went than anything else.

munky30 wrote:I did mine in my car park. The neighbours loved me flushing the coolant without an exhaust on.... 15 minutes at fast idle

When it comes to doing it, give me a shout. Mine went a bit tits up but that was more due to me learning as I went than anything else.

cheers will do....

in the meantime, i gota get the cosmetics on mine sorted out....noticed after the recent clean-up that one side of the car's been resprayed....badly....orangepeel everywhere....gona sort that out...tackle a few rust spots, and a few other bits and bobs!

I'll use the 325 engine as a motivation to get everything done!!!