. Checked out the icv and tps all seem okay, any ideas....Oh by the way the car is later type fitted with a cat...Help needed please as its getting me down a bit.. 
325i low idle speed and 14.7MPG.
Moderator: martauto
So my car starts fine in the morning, runs lovely during the "warm up phase" then as soon as it gets hot the idle drops to 600 rpm and lumpy, also only getting 14.7 MPG . Checked out the icv and tps all seem okay, any ideas....Oh by the way the car is later type fitted with a cat...Help needed please as its getting me down a bit..
. Checked out the icv and tps all seem okay, any ideas....Oh by the way the car is later type fitted with a cat...Help needed please as its getting me down a bit.. What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
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Ant
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AFM is not used @ idle dude
check for corroded pins in the plug under the intake/TB area, pull back the rubber boots and check the wires themselved too.
the coolant temp is routed through this plug, as is the power and trigger to the injectors.
an over rich mix will have killed your 02 sensor, ditch the cat and all emissions equipment ASAP !
What Engine BTW ?
check for corroded pins in the plug under the intake/TB area, pull back the rubber boots and check the wires themselved too.
the coolant temp is routed through this plug, as is the power and trigger to the injectors.
an over rich mix will have killed your 02 sensor, ditch the cat and all emissions equipment ASAP !
What Engine BTW ?
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Original performance chips, original works not unlicensed copies
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Original performance chips, original works not unlicensed copies
Email FTWOk so changed the cap and rotor arm last night, rotor arm burn't on end and cap had been arking out against the black cap cover. Misfire under load has now improved but idle still very low and mpg still very poor.
Tried clamping the fuel return line to increase fuel pressure and very slight improvement aswell, poss pressure regulator or injectors ?
The engine was bought from ebay and had been running on lpg before i fitted it to my car, shall i change injector rail for the sake of it ?
Any help gladly received, brian are you there ?
Tried clamping the fuel return line to increase fuel pressure and very slight improvement aswell, poss pressure regulator or injectors ?
The engine was bought from ebay and had been running on lpg before i fitted it to my car, shall i change injector rail for the sake of it ?
Any help gladly received, brian are you there ?
What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
Thanks Stephen,
Just a thought but back in the day of E30's coming into the workshop poften i can remember that they run on 3.0 bar fuel pressure. Mines got a 2.5 bar regulator in, will that cause it to run lumpy ?
Cheers Darren
Just a thought but back in the day of E30's coming into the workshop poften i can remember that they run on 3.0 bar fuel pressure. Mines got a 2.5 bar regulator in, will that cause it to run lumpy ?
Cheers Darren
What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
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E30Mark
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Location: Wimborne, Dorset
yep! grab a new one out the parts bin asap...bobafett wrote:Thanks Stephen,
Just a thought but back in the day of E30's coming into the workshop poften i can remember that they run on 3.0 bar fuel pressure. Mines got a 2.5 bar regulator in, will that cause it to run lumpy ?
Cheers Darren
1 & 2 bed flats in Bournemouth areas, with parking
PM for details
PM for details
UPDATE !
Just reprogrammed out the cat converter from the dme and it immediately ran smoother but no faster. Maybe the fuel pressure reg will make the difference !
Just reprogrammed out the cat converter from the dme and it immediately ran smoother but no faster. Maybe the fuel pressure reg will make the difference !
What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
-
Globulator
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 389
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:00 pm
The fuel reg relies on that little vacuum pipe, or it will be way off. Make sure it is not blocked or split.
1986 325i 'vert, funk louder than standard.
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
Its running on a 2.5 bar reg when it should be 3.0 bar.Globulator wrote:The fuel reg relies on that little vacuum pipe, or it will be way off. Make sure it is not blocked or split.
Is there any other way to raise the idle, something about disconnecting the battery for half an hour and after restart holding the throttle open at 3000rpms to relearn its mapping ? BRIAN any thoughts i can't remember that one from back in the day !
What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
OK so now on a 3.0 bar pressure reg and the "Cat" has been programmed out, still bloody lumpy at idle and only 600 rpm's, Its had : New Blue sensor (the gauge only reads quarter warm)(I know its the brown one that does the cluster). Different injector rail, new pressure reg, new cap and rotor, different leads, the multiplug under inlet manifold is fine, help !
What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
Might be simplistic mate but replacing the flexible hose between the AFM and the throttle body made a big difference to MPG (from 19 to 25) and idle speed on my 320i. Yet it didnt look obviously cracked until I really flexed it. I dont know if you've tried that but it sounds like you may have a combination of different problems working together there.
Good Luck
Steve W
Good Luck
Steve W
Whats the resistance across the pins of a crank sensor to test ? Also any figures to test the air flow meter.....I know it doesn't effect the idle but it runs really low 600 rpms....
What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
Its sorted ! I had a small air leak from the fuel injector "o" rings ...... Also changed the air bellows from the air flow to the throttle body, cleaned out and adjusted the throttle position sensor, checked out the multiplug under inlet all ok, removed and cleaned out every multiplug under the bonnet on any sensor.
The main problem was a small split on the air bellows where the idle elbow joins the main track of the bellows it was out of sight under neath but only came to light after taking off the throttle body to remove the TPS to clean out and adjust. Removed the rocker cover and injector rail so the "o" rings could be replaced, could only hear the leak when the car was in the garage with the door shut to reduce any outside noise,(don't worry the poor idle hadn't got so bad i considered topping myself in the garage with the door closed. 
) Replaced the "o" rings and also cleaned out any dirt in the mulitplug connections on the wiring loom to injectors whilst removed. Tried to run the car with the Oxygen sensor heater relay removed from the multiplug on the inner wing but DON'T, I had the cars DME reprogrammed so its was now not cat, but it doesn't like the fact that you remove the relay.......It runs like a bag of shite! . The car now idles at 800 rpm at idle and as smooth as a babies arse ....NOT LIKE I FEEL THEM OR OUT ! So now only time will tell if the fuel econemy will improve from 14.7 to a much nicer 20 ish 
...
Enjoy your read and feel free to comment if you will as this has been a pain in the arse like you cannot believe !
Cheers all Darren
! I had a small air leak from the fuel injector "o" rings ...... Also changed the air bellows from the air flow to the throttle body, cleaned out and adjusted the throttle position sensor, checked out the multiplug under inlet all ok, removed and cleaned out every multiplug under the bonnet on any sensor. The main problem was a small split on the air bellows
where the idle elbow joins the main track of the bellows it was out of sight under neath but only came to light after taking off the throttle body to remove the TPS to clean out and adjust. Removed the rocker cover and injector rail so the "o" rings could be replaced, could only hear the leak when the car was in the garage with the door shut to reduce any outside noise,(don't worry the poor idle hadn't got so bad i considered topping myself in the garage with the door closed. ) Replaced the "o" rings and also cleaned out any dirt in the mulitplug connections on the wiring loom to injectors whilst removed. Tried to run the car with the Oxygen sensor heater relay removed from the multiplug on the inner wing but DON'T, I had the cars DME reprogrammed so its was now not cat, but it doesn't like the fact that you remove the relay.......It runs like a bag of shite! . The car now idles at 800 rpm at idle and as smooth as a babies arse ....NOT LIKE I FEEL THEM OR OUT ! So now only time will tell if the fuel econemy will improve from 14.7 to a much nicer 20 ish ...Enjoy your read and feel free to comment if you will as this has been a pain in the arse like you cannot believe !
Cheers all Darren
What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
Yeah right not quite fixed, cut out on me three times over the eight mile trip to work ,One on a roundabout with a car bearing down onto my o/s rear door so up kirb in the middle to avoid a wack. 
Checked out all sensors on the manifold side and then found the cause to all my trouble, with her running and at idle the revs would jump up to 1100 and back down to 500rpms. Misfire aswell on intial take up.....so i removed the plug to the blue temp sensor and hey presto , good idle and smooth running. Check the short loom to the multiplug under the inlet and all ok so its the main engine loom causing all the greif. 
Gonna get one on the weekend and hopefully a fixed car.
Will update when done..
,One on a roundabout with a car bearing down onto my o/s rear door so up kirb in the middle to avoid a wack. Checked out all sensors on the manifold side and then found the cause to all my trouble, with her running and at idle the revs would jump up to 1100 and back down to 500rpms. Misfire aswell on intial take up.....so i removed the plug to the blue temp sensor and hey presto
, good idle and smooth running. Check the short loom to the multiplug under the inlet and all ok so its the main engine loom causing all the greif. Gonna get one on the weekend and hopefully a fixed car.
Will update when done..
What ?! Drive straight officer......It's an E30 !
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
It's the Ultimate Drifting Machine.
my 325i sport had the same problems as yours,14mpg,stank of fuel,run like there was a high lift cam in it and once it heated up had a misfire,i couldn't find the problem at all so i ripped the hole lot out and stuck in a 3.5,good man yourself for finding the prob.
Hi Everyone
Got a BMW E30 325i, the thing is it does not want to start and when it does it does not want to idle and almost stalls, also whilst driving the rev's drop out and the ABS light comes on then the rev's go back up and the ABS light stays on???? 
ps: Does any one know where i can get hold of oversized adjusters for the valves?
Help needed please its driving me mad....
Got a BMW E30 325i, the thing is it does not want to start and when it does it does not want to idle and almost stalls
, also whilst driving the rev's drop out and the ABS light comes on then the rev's go back up and the ABS light stays on???? ps: Does any one know where i can get hold of oversized adjusters for the valves?
Help needed please its driving me mad....