E30 Zone

Im replacing the crank sensor on my 325i f plate.

Where does it go???

Cheers.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?m ... g=12&fg=05

Am i right in thinking its also called a pulse generator?

Anyone?

It goes on the side of the engine at the front by the fan.
You will see from drivers side it is held in place by one alan key.
Very simple job.

Ok thanks for that but where does the other end go?

There's a double socket underneath the intake manifold, towards the front.

Chris-W wrote:There's a double socket underneath the intake manifold, towards the front.

..... Bottom of the diagnostic socket.

Thanks for your help guys. I had a bit of trouble getting the nut off with the allen key today.The bugger just would not budge and you have not got alot of space to manouvre down there have you!?

Going to give it another go tomorrow.

Be very careful over the routing of its cable around the front of the engine. It runs VERY close to the water pump pulley.

Yeah nice one. Would anyone happen to have any sort of illustrations of it?

Would you reccommend i take anything off in order to make it easier to remove the old one and fit the new one?

Take out the air filter/air flow meter assembly as that's a five minute job and gives a lot easier access to the LH side of the engine.
If your car is anywhere near needing a coolant change, then drain the rad and lift this out as well. Just disconnect the hoses, remove the shroud clips and lift the shroud onto the fan, undo the two 10mm self tappers that hold the top bracket, lift out the rad and then the shroud.

Ok i will give it a go then. Thanks for the top tips! The car does need a coolant change as it goes so thats all good. Fingers crossed it all goes ok and the bugger starts up!

Right, now you're doing a coolant change as well! This is what is known as "while you're in there" syndrome.
Draining the rad only removes part of the old coolant - there's another drain plug on the rear right of the engine block in a near impossible place under the exhaust manifold.
Easy way to "drain" the block is to flush all the old coolant out with a hosepipe so that the block is filled with clean water only.
Then replace the radiator and fill with the correct total amount of neat antifreeze, and then top up with water.
Doing it this way SHOULD avoid airlock problems at the back of the head, but be sure to watch the temp gauge and monitor hot air output from the heater for the first few minutes after you start it.

Lovely stuff!

But what is the "correct" amount of anti-freeze?

Cooling system on a 325 holds 10.5 litres, and specified antifreeze concentration is 40%, so just over 4 litres.

While you are here Mr Mooore do you have any other suggestions as to why my car will not start. It turns over but it will not fire up.

Nelly made a few useful suggestions i.e. clean the front of CPS first, check for buzzing fron ICV, check for relay clicking from small relay bank (1 or 2 relays) or swap the ECU with another to see if that helps, check earth strap from sump to inner wing, see if there is 12v or more at positive side of coil on crank and change rotor arm and check dizzy cap for wear. So far i have changed AFM, cleaned ICV and now onto replacing crank sensor.

If it turns over OK, it's nothing to do with earth straps or battery cables.
Are you getting a spark? Take out a spark plug. What colour is it? Is it wet with fuel? Reconnect its plug lead, lay it on the rocker cover and crank over the engine. Does it spark once every two turns of the engine?
Is there fuel getting to the engine? Take the pipe off the fuel rail that DOESN'T go to the fuel pressure regulator, hold the end over a container and crank the engine. Is fuel pumped out? (Try not to do this near any naked flames).
Neither the AFM or the ICV take any part in starting the engine, so you're on the wrong track there.

Right. Ok. The old plugs were in a bad state. The ends were all black and the plug nearest the bulk head was coverd in oil!? I have now fitted new plugs and there is spark.

I shall check out the fuel rail. Thank you very much for this.

Incidently does the crank sensor have anything to do with the starting of the car then?

Crank sensor has everything to do with starting the car. It's by far the most important sensor on the engine.
No CPS = no spark or fuel, and you say you have spark, so you're probably wasting your time fitting a new one.
Black plugs = rich mixture, so check out the resistance of the blue temperature sender (on water outlet elbow with blue connector), and the condition of a round plug and socket attached to the metalwork directly under the middle of the inlet manifold.

Ok made a bit of progress today with the help of my bro. Got the crank position sensor off and realised it was filthy. Gave it a clean and then discovered the wires were actually coming away as shown in the pic.


Its quite a fiddly job. I got a bit to happy and ended up snapping the cover that goes just above the water pump belt. Nice one!
This is the cover...


Steve-E30 thanks for getting this crank sensor to me so quick but unfortunently it is the wrong one. I would write down the correct part number but i just could not make out the digits. Sorry. I shall send you a PM bud.
The one you sent (as pictured below) is alot shorter than the one i need.

No worries mate , Thats why i mentioned the part number but you wont really see it till its off , Just wanted you to get it before xmas as you were desperate , I know what its like not having a car on the road , Send it back and ill refund in full ok , Didnt know they did different lengths

Thanks mate. You can get a rough idea of the length not being enough when you have the old one disconnected and plug the one sent in. It came up a fair bit shorter unfortunently.

Well im so used to playing the waiting game now another week or so aint going to hurt. As Brianmooore mentioned it now gives me the excuse to give the car a coolant change now. Probably end up checking the dizzy cap and rotor arm while im in there.

Saved

Nobby you spaz, you don't have to post on every thread you've read. All the good info is where you'd expect it to be:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ion_Sensor

if you have the rad off, and asuming the thing has nbot been done in the last two/three years then you are also halfway there to chaging the timing belt and water pump, I would do that too, "while you are there".

Only way that Rad will be coming off is if i break the car as its about 6 months old lol

Grrrr thanks lol