E30 Zone

have asked before, but no joy so here goes again: - my 320i is a b**tard to get in to reverse when cold. have to wander round the forward gears until I get 1 to engage, move car 1" forward, then I can get any gear i want. all gears ok when car warm. Oil level in box ok, clutch system bled and checked, all usual stuff checked. Is this a common problem?
could the clutch friction plate be sticking on the splines when cold and not disengaging properly? - if so, is there a fix that doesn't involve dropping the box? Anybody else had this problem?

never had this problem... can you engage reverse OK with out the engine running?

I would guess it sounds like the synchromesh may be on the way out... but i don't really know!

clutch sounds as though its dragging.....

worn clutch renewal would be required.

syncromesh on reverse? :?not the case-only forward gears with synchro.

Do you let the gearbox spin, or are you starting the car with the clutch down ?

Martin - i have tried all ways clutch up and down a few times to try and free off, nothing seems 2 make a difference. won't go in to reverse with engine off/clutch down. In fact, when its stone cold, its a b**ger getting ANY gears at first

Change the gearbox oil for ATF.

Take the sawdust out

If you have got the problem without the engine running then it must be the box at fault, not the clutch.

gcorky wrote: syncromesh on reverse? :?not the case-only forward gears with synchro.

Just checked my owners handbook. 4-cyl cars, synchro on forward gears only. 6-cyl, synchro on reverse too!

E30Mark wrote:If you have got the problem without the engine running then it must be the box at fault, not the clutch.

didnt see the engine off-remark??oh well,mines the same ,although all ratios fine with out engine running.

mine is clutch

Update, guys & gals - I tried the gears with engine off last night - oops, they all go in perfectly! - I guess this means its defo the clutch dragging. there is absolutely no clutch slip at any time, but I have noticed gear engagement getting harder during driving. Hmmm - I,m gonna have to change the clutch, methinks. Anybody know if BMW clutch kits come with the release bearing - i'm gonna change that at the same time as the driven plate, for obvious reasons. I don't have an aligning kit - anybody tell me if they're essential, or will ligning up by eye be good enough?

go for a sachs or luk clutch..ecp do sell sachs.

You'll need a centralising tool otherwise you could be down there some time trying to get them concentric within a few thou. and for the few quid it's not worth the anquish.

Never possessed or used a centering tool in my life!
Clutch kit comes with a release bearing, and BMW OE is Sachs (possibly among others).
Dragging clutch is usually oil contamination, so you may have some more work to do while you're in there.

Thanks, Brian - from your (vast) experience, are we usually talking engine output shaft seal, g/box imput seal or both? - if they're easy to replace, I'll do em both at same time. Obviously need to know what to order before box out time.

Have you checked the clutch fluid level ?
Try sitting with the car in 1st gear on level ground with the handbrake off and wait to see if the revs start to drop or the car creeps forward, if so then it may be a leaking master clutch cylinder. If its lost pressure then the clutch will drag.

thanks, Martin - will try that today. I haven't noticed any problems sitting in traffic with clutch in & in gear, but lets give the 'driveway challenge' a go

Could also be excessive crank endfloat although it's not really an issue on the M20 - more of an M40 problem. Also - does the clutch pedal sit lower than the brake? If so it can be adjusted on the eccentric pivot for the pedal/master cylinder to raise the pedal up. This gives a bit more travel on the pedal, displaces a bit more fluid and will disengage the clutch a little more. E28's had eccentrics on both clutch and brake pedals - can't rememeber if all E30's had this though.