The bearing it's self isn't expensive at about 20 quid, but if you get a garage that likes charging or making a meal of it then the job might work out expensive.
You could do the job your self with a decent tool kit or if you have a trusted garage use them.
This is copied from a thread of mine to give you an idea whats involved.
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First off, i'd like to say thank you to all you folks that have helped me out as it's muchly appreciated !
After much sweat and bruised nucles/fingers the hubs off, one inner race removed from hub and the other inner and the outer have been removed from the trailing arm.
As it was a week day i couldn't get any one to help so i had to substitute the mate pulling on two levers idea for using the wheel nuts and some assorted junk.
I also made some thing to hold the socket in place so i could hit it with the sledge hammer, the hub would only move from the bearing with the wheel nuts bodge AND the sledge hammer, lump hammer is
The inner race that was stuck on the hub was a bugger because you can't get behind it to drive it off, i tried heating but it wouldn't budge so i Dremeled/ginded a grove through the race instead and it popped off easy.
Same goes for the outer race in the trailing arm, it wasn't budging with a lump hammer and socket. When i'd finished grinding a grove in the race i could easily just lever it out with a screw driver.
The hub and the remains of the old races.
Thats all i managed to do this afternoon, i've still got to replace the back plate and i'm waiting for the new bearing to come in, touch wood i can get it all sorted for the Donny show on Sunday.
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Nearly there, new back plate and bearing fitted, i've got to sort the new shoes/discs/handbrake out and i've got to blead that brake line because the flexy pipe has to come off.
BTW, thats not rust, it's copper slip
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This is another wooden tool for pulling the hub in to the bearing
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A picy for referance, the rear of the hub/trailing arm/bearing
A = hub
B = inner bearing race(1 of 2)
C = outer bearing race
