E30 Zone

just did a subframe swap on my touring and the brakes won't bleed properly. they keep bubbling. Even with theself bleed tool.

Can anyone help???

open the nipples mate and let them gravity bleed then try again. by the way those self bleed systems are a pile of w*** get some one to help you mate

Just backing up diamondwhites description of the self bleed things

Get someone to help you mate or just gravity bleed it

personally ive never had a problem with the self bleed kits

tried doing ti with the pump the pedal style, the mtighten.. and yes I have someone else helping me.. But he... a very reputable mech... can't get them to bleed either!

hae u damaged a pipe/hose when refitting the axle

I had trouble with mine and ended up bleeding them with the engine running so the abs pump was powered up ? and they bleed ok

ED

no abs.. though the new subframe has abs.. but not connected. Does this effect anything?

oze30 wrote: Does this effect anything?

Not relevant. I was going to suggest air in the ABS, but not having any sort of eliminates that!
If you didn't let the reservoir empty, then the rears should just about bleed themselves through gravity.

so you just fill the resevoir up and open the nipples? and keep topping it up?

fuzzy wrote:personally ive never had a problem with the self bleed kits

Me neither in fact they've saved me lots of hassle in the past <shrug>

I'm talking about the ones that are just a bit of hose with a 1 way valve on the end here (so you still have to keep running round and topping up the reservoir yourself) not the ones that force the fluid in

Pressure bleeder is the best tool to bleed brakes, but for a job like this I wouldn't normally get it out the cupboard. Should gravity feed with no problem!

Brianmoooore wrote:Pressure bleeder is the best tool to bleed brakes, but for a job like this I wouldn't normally get it out the cupboard. Should gravity feed with no problem!

Someone has recommended a vacuum bleeder, ie. suck rather than push. Any experience with these?

Chris-W wrote:Someone has recommended a vacuum bleeder, ie. suck rather than push. Any experience with these?

You mean the type that has a tube to the bleed nipple and a bottle that you plug into the compressed air?
We had one of these where I used to work, started to use it once then it lived on the shelf

The only equipment ive ever needed is a spanner and another foot

oze30 wrote:so you just fill the resevoir up and open the nipples? and keep topping it up?

anyone??

Yep.

If there aren't any holes in the system etc and they still won't bleed, I've had a reasonable amount of success in the past with just wedging the pedal down overnight with all the nipples shut.

No idea why this works but my guess is that any little bubbles rise over time to the highest point and when you release the pedal, they get drawn up into the resevoir / master cylinder.

Worth a go anyway

If there are holes in it, wouldn't the fluid come out from those when bleeding?

Would the heat used to seperate the flexi/hard lines apart?

oze30 wrote: Would the heat used to seperate the flexi/hard lines apart?

???????????????

i had rusted lines.. so used abit of heat to loosen it up.. the metal hard line that is.. then they came apart.

Just trying to work out why they can't bleed

You used heat to separate the steel brake lines from the flexibles? And then you reused the flexibles? There are less messy and more definite ways to commit suicide!!

Brianmoooore wrote:You used heat to separate the steel brake lines from the flexibles? And then you reused the flexibles? There are less messy and more definite ways to commit suicide!!

Just heated up the metal pipes is all.. Was told that by a BMW specialist.. as long as you don't melt the rubber

i guess that's bad??

If it was me I'd replace the fluid now - complete flush. I'd also replace the flexies & consider replacing the rigid lines as well.

I intend to.. but need to get the car stoppingso I can.

Your flexible pipes have probably perished inside, so are now acting as a valve, keeping air back all the time. Did your brakes squel or stick before, or could you fell them not releasing immediately? thats another clue. Flexies only last so long, preplace them and try again.

Z3I wrote: Flexies only last so long,

Especially if you attack them with a blowlamp!

|Only prob is the T piece on mine has corroded between the piece and the 3 nuts on the hardline.. ( sounds like the matrix!) Is there a way I could cut the main hardline and then flare and put a new male piece onto it?

Yes - easier when the rear beam's off though!

What I would do in your position is build up a new t-piece with the three rigid lines, make the feed line a couple of feet long and pass it over the top of the beam to join it to the front to rear.

just a thought to consider

a friend of mine did a brake conversion on his mk 1 golf and could not get the brakes to bleed until someone pointed out he had the callipers on the wrong sides so the bleed nipple wasnt on the top,as air rises it was trapped and no amount of bleeding would get it out. have your calipers been off?

nope.. calipers swapped with the subframe.. ie as 1 unit.. so hopefully.. not upside down.

oze30 wrote:|Is there a way I could cut the main hardline and then flare and put a new male piece onto it?

This is what I always do. Cut and form mating flares on the original pipe just in front of the LH rear wheel arch and make up a new line to the T piece, new lines to each flexy, and two new flexys as standard procedure. Materials cost is negligible.
Lines and flexys on the trailing arms get renewed if they show any deterioration.

Cheers brian.

How hard is it to do yourself.. or would it be better to get a shop to do it?

oze30 wrote:Cheers brian.

How hard is it to do yourself.. or would it be better to get a shop to do it?

Dead easy to do if you have a small tube cutter and the tool to make the flares. Small pipe beber is nice as well, but not essential.

i need a brake pipe flare tool ins't it? Where do I get the connectors from?