E30 Zone

hi
CENTRAL LOCKING:
ive replaced the actuators in the doors with a spare set and still no central locking. I do get a 'click' noise from the central locking box.

could the main box be faulty? this a common fault?

anyone have a spare box thingy?

also..how can i take the drivers lock barrel out? ive got a rough idea but dont want to break anything?

DOOR CARD CLIPS:

the door card clips have broke and looks pants The holes where the clips should sit in are too 'saggy' for them to hold. Anyone with me?

How can i get around this?



chers

Tinnie wrote:hi
CENTRAL LOCKING:
ive replaced the actuators in the doors with a spare set and still no central locking. I do get a 'click' noise from the central locking box.

could the main box be faulty? this a common fault?

anyone have a spare box thingy?

also..how can i take the drivers lock barrel out? ive got a rough idea but dont want to break anything?

DOOR CARD CLIPS:

the door card clips have broke and looks pants The holes where the clips should sit in are too 'saggy' for them to hold. Anyone with me?

How can i get around this?



chers

Central lock relays can play up,got one here if you need it,£10 posted!

Might be worth trying the Red/Black wire in the drivers door pillar,very common problem-do a search in the tech section,youll soon find out how to sort that.

Door lock barrel is held in place by a horse shoe clip,use a long flat screwdriver to flick it off!

No suggestions for the door panel holes except get some replacement panels!

chers

ive soldered the red/black wire straight though with heatshink etc etc

some fool cut a load of wires and they are all back together now too


still no joy

Use a 12V lamp to check for 12 volts between the red/black wire and the brown wire at the locking relay.
If this is present, then open up the "relay" and see if there is any corrosion or water damage. If there is, then the unit is probably scrap.
If OK, then the next thing is to inspect the thermal fuse in the bottom left corner. It's a small wire wound resistor mounted ar right angles to the PCB, with a small leaf spring soldered to the top end of it. If the fuse has blown, then the spring will be unsoldered.
Solder it back without usung any new solder. (It's a special low melting point alloy, and fires have been caused by using ordinary solder!)

the box did have some corrosion but nothing that i think would stop it from working but i still suspect this to be faulty.

The box makes a 'click' noise when i press the door lock down. Doesnt make a noise if pushed up?

My multimeter shows a costant 11-12v with the red/black wire and the brown.

I didnt get that bit about the thermal fuse? Where is it exactly?

Im new to bmw electrics

Tinnie wrote: My multimeter shows a costant 11-12v with the red/black wire and the brown.

Totaly meaningless. Ditch the meter and use a 12V 5W or 21W lamp.
I do most of my electrical testing with the lamp assembly from a front indicator repeater. The multimeter very rerely comes out.

Thermal fuse is bottom left of the locking "relay" PCB looking from the component side, near the connector.

central locking works!

thank you for your help. apreciated!

was the damn fuse. how could i have missed that!!

ok it works but i cannot lock from the drivers door. the door pin will not go down but does open/close manualy without the key (from inside)

The key barrel has a mark on it as if it 'skims' the door mechanism.

barrel itself is fine.

This only happens when i permanently attach the central lockin actuator thing.

Does anyone know how to get around this?


anyone get what i mean?

this looks appropriate

http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/d ... Section=01

Tinnie wrote:hi
DOOR CARD CLIPS:

the door card clips have broke and looks pants The holes where the clips should sit in are too 'saggy' for them to hold. Anyone with me?

If you want to replace the door card, let me know. I may well have one.

Cheers,
Chris

chers

yeh i tried the above link. done exactly the same thing but still no joy

ill have a go at something else