E30 Zone

ok sounds like a tad silly question,,,

but basically which part do i remove...

the arm that joins to the wheel has the large nuts,, or the nuts that require the allenkey head to remove.. which one should i undo??

pics would be fantastic please

unless ur changing driveshafts as well undo the allens at the diff eachside

get plenty oof wd on everything to loosen em up

cool cheers mate

ps dnt try using a normal allen key youll be there forever get one that goes on a half inch ratchet
think its 8mm but double check

and make sure you have energy in reserve for the diff mount bolts at the top there bloody tight lol

slacken the prop bolts first as they will be a nightmare later

good luck

I did this at the week end with the car on it's side and dropped the subframe off. I have no idea how people get to the diff top mount bolts with it on the car!

Widge wrote:I did this at the week end with the car on it's side and dropped the subframe off. I have no idea how people get to the diff top mount bolts with it on the car!

With ease, you have to do it by touch though rather than sight.

But is there enough room to get a nice big spanner in? Cos you need a decent amount of leverage.

widge i managed it fine



ok heres the progress....

undone the allen key things,,, loosened the top mounts, not a big deal....

then realised cant loosen the prob without having other tihng attached, so reattched 2 bolts enough to keep it still...

got one nut from the prop off.. though the others are not budging,, really looking my patience....

its from a breaker car... if i angle grind the prob will i be able to get it off later??

this is the my main problem so far,, ,these damn bolts. for the prop.... any advice??

all i can say is persist they will come

lots of wd

i did say do prop first mate

Angle grind the prop, I did this at the weekend. Well I dropped the whole prop off as the engine end box habeen taken out. I ended up with the diff and prop on the floor of the garage with the rear crossmember threaded on as it wouldn't fit over the prop centre bearing corse if you grind it do it after the centre bearing

Get it all off then jam an old screwdriver or steel bar in the universal joint to undo the prop, got to put you foot on it but it can be done.

lol i was too eager,,,

blah makes no difference now,, i would be struggling then as i am now... gonna give the wd a bit of time to settle in deep and have another crack,,, then i dont know what to do after that lol

mucho big spanners and a big strong passer by

fter that you angle grind the prop and do it on the garage floor, it's quite easy really. Just make sure you have like a pole on the end of the spanner about a meter long and they'll just pop off.

You can always remove the rear springs for easier access to the diff plate nuts - don't do what i normally do and get confused with what way to turn a nut LOL, spent a good 1/2 hour trying to loosen one of jonbuoys when all i was doing was tightening it up - still managed a good 1/4 turn though LOL.

Neil.

Big up the WD40 - works a treat once settled in.

Widge wrote:I did this at the week end with the car on it's side and dropped the subframe off. I have no idea how people get to the diff top mount bolts with it on the car!

yup widge i required a skin graft shortly after my original 17 yr old rusty shite of a diff decided to come out

I think if I had to change diff I would take it as an opportunity to change all the rear bushes!! Have the rear subframe off

I hope the skin graft has settled in ...not too itchy?

Just hook the ring end of a nice big spanner over the open end of your 17mm to get the prop bolts off. You can't beat a bit of leverage!

I've been up until silly hours doing this job at night it's gay but worth it lol

I've done two roday

Sorry do you mean today.

Sorry, I sometimes slip into obscure dialects.....

....or press thw erong jey???

At last, somobw I feek I can communicate wiyj!

What are you two like??#


Im going to be doing this job tomorrow, so Photo's and updates for my thread!

Im just a bit scared of having the car up on axle stands and reading all this pull hard stuff and the car falling on me!

You got a diff for the beast then Steve??

Widge wrote:You got a diff for the beast then Steve??

Not yet, 3.25 diffs are rare!

Need to remove mine to sell it to Firefly2005

Give Nigel Mosely a ring Steve, he's got quite a few

Thats where I got mine

stevetigger wrote:Not yet, 3.25 diffs are rare!

Need to remove mine to sell it to Firefly2005

That's going to triple the budget so far!!!!!

DanThe wrote:Give Nigel Mosely a ring Steve, he's got quite a few

Thats where I got mine

Bloody forgot about him, A friend of mine's Dad is old friends with Nige


but he is very expensive

Widge wrote:That's going to triple the budget so far!!!

Yep, up to £200

dazleeds wrote:ps dnt try using a normal allen key youll be there forever get one that goes on a half inch ratchet
think its 8mm but double check

Anyone confirm that? I can't remember either... Next weekends job's getting the LSD in! Will probably just get a set of allen sockets, but I can't really see me using any of the others so if they happen to come individually...

Yep - 8mm. I manage with a 3/8" ratchet or worst case a 3/8" breaker bar.

Chris-W wrote:Yep - 8mm. I manage with a 3/8" ratchet or worst case a 3/8" breaker bar.

Ta
It'll be 1/2" for me though - I don't actually own any 3/8" stuff!

They do come individually, Hafrauds do them. I'll go and check what size you need mate. I've got a Draper set that I think was £25 which isn't too bad as it does the Torx ones for the bumpers too.



EDIT too late!!!!

Thanks anyway mate - good to know they do em individually too I've already got a torx set & with my trade discount ( ) a single 8mm shouldn't be too much! I'd be happy to buy a set (more tools is always good), I just can't see where I'd use em...

I use them much more than I thought, they're much better than allan keys. I've got a set of those E sockets too, use them more than I thought.