E30 Zone

Right ive tried a search and didnt really find the answer so...

I am going to phone the dealers tomorrow and order a new Timing chain tensioner for my car.
I seem to remember someone saying to get a M44 one from an E36,is this right or do i stick to the M42 one?

If i do get the M44 one is it a direct swap and what are the advantages?
Also anything else i should replace while im doing it?
Obviously going to do oil/filter at the same time!

They dont do the m42 one any more tony; so it will be an e36 one; an yes its a straight swap.

I dont actually no what the benefits are??

Ok,just though id check before i order.

I take it the cap that covers it is re usable?
Does this have a sealing washer on it?

i used the old cap yes

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=25

not sure what you mean about seal; part number 18 maybe?

Yeah looks like part 18 is what im on about,copper washer that compresses to form a seal,like sump plug!

Thanks Dan,think thats confirmed it

PS Wheres my tweeters Daz is waiting for mine!

my car has been offraod since monday

hopefully im getting it back in 15 minutes! so maybe cane it down there then if not deffo 2moro morning

iv bin immobile hence the massive post count rise!

tony, when you do it, remember this....

once the tensioner is in, it needs to me pressed in, so it comes out ifs latched position. obviously its easier to do this with the upper timing case cover off, but thats a bit of hassle...

you could try pressing it in and then installing (quickly, so it doesnt pop right out!)....

and once its been installed, the first time you start your engine, you MUST hold the revs at approx 3000 rpm, for about 10-15 seconds, so the tensioner can get enough oil inside it

DO NOT let the engine just idle after start up, as you risk the chain jumping off the pulleys, jumping teeth, or chain slap (which can shatter plastic chain guides and/or the timing case)

hope this helps

good luck

Ok mate,when you can

Its a straignt swap tony, takes about 10 mins, you'll need a new washer aswell, remover the locating nut and the old tensioner should slide out, not the way it comes out, put the new one in, put the new washer on and screw the cover back on, i think its torque to 35Nmm, start the engine and rev to 3000rpm for 20 seconds to pop the piston in the tensioner out, you'll know when its done because the noise will change.

Is the tensioner that gets replaced part 17 in the diagram or is it 14?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=25

Thanks
John

It's part 17 that's being talked about.

As regards getting the tensioner to pop out of it's oarked position, a light tap with a small hammer on the securing cap will do the job as well. You can learn the force required before you insert the tensioner.