E30 Zone

ive done a right round of fooks and had enough

driving to a friends and the car started sounding very very lumpy so got it off a duallyand pulled onto a bugered ring. my 320 will now not rev above 3 grand and when it does it sounds like its pinking its fucking tits off firing on 1 cylinder and poppin like methane man. i need serious help

got it to a mates house as i said lumpy as fcuk and looked at the plugs there all different 4 without nodes 2 with so im hoping a weak connection is the answer on the side of it as the smell of unused fuel is over welming. im just hoping someone else has had the same problems and can help me as im stuck now going to change the plugs hopefully tommorow and see if that solves it but any advice is greatly appreciated (y)

Put your 2.5 in the beast!

to be fair im gettin to the point of doin just that gettin rather wound up with this tampety bloody engine and the way it drinks it wouldnt be much different

Thats the spirit

nah mate i cant this thing is hard enough to drive without speed added to it plus it scares the shite out of the wife when im doin 30mph in it. plus i have another beast to sort i would if i didnt have another car

If you're looking for help on your problem, PLEASE POST IN THE RIGHT SECTION.
Distributor cap/rotor arm would be the first things I'd check.

thanks brian and sorry for puttin it in the wrong section

Check if your getting black smoke out of the back, could be a sign your fuel pressure regulator has had it!

no black smoke
it sounds like a plug/cylinder not firing properly but 65 quid for cheap ass leads is a joke ive changed the 6th on the leads as the original had worn through and still no joy plus a full set of plugs

I'd deffo check the dizzy cap and rotor arm. Sounds very much like the cause of it.

is the dizzy on the six cylinder electronic or does it have a rotor arm inside?

All distrubutors have a rotor arm by definition. If it didn't have a rotor arm, then it wouldn't be a distributor.
Don't waste money on new leads for a BMW, unless one is physically damaged. OE ones last for ever. I've never seen a dud one.

on the 6th spark plug lead meets the dizzy bout 6 inches before there a rubber bung thing with another cable goin to under the diagnostic port thats very badly frayed so ive changed that but it aint done a blind thing

bellgtti wrote:on the 6th spark plug lead meets the dizzy bout 6 inches before there a rubber bung thing with another cable goin to under the diagnostic port thats very badly frayed so ive changed that but it aint done a blind thing

That's No 1 plug lead, and the rubber bung thing is the cam position sensor. No 1 cylinder is at the front, No 6 is against the bulkhead.
In some versions of the motronic, the cam sensor only feeds the diagnostic socket, but on others it feeds the ECU as well, and will affect the running if its not there.

bellgtti wrote:
and looked at the plugs there all different 4 without nodes 2 with

I don't get what you mean, nodes ?

Might be worth seeing if you have a snapped a rocker ?

Brianmoooore wrote:

bellgtti wrote:on the 6th spark plug lead meets the dizzy bout 6 inches before there a rubber bung thing with another cable goin to under the diagnostic port thats very badly frayed so ive changed that but it aint done a blind thing

That's No 1 plug lead, and the rubber bung thing is the cam position sensor. No 1 cylinder is at the front, No 6 is against the bulkhead.
In some versions of the motronic, the cam sensor only feeds the diagnostic socket, but on others it feeds the ECU as well, and will affect the running if its not there.

answer me this if number one is ment to house the rubber bung thing we are both on about how come number six which you say is against the bulkhead is the one with it on!

and a node is a small conductive piece of metal that can extend the lengh of a sparkplug giving it a better contact

would a rocker (i think you mean rocker bolt but not sure) cause the car to miss fire sound like a tracter and run like a qualcast lawn mower?

Oh, do you mean those screw on things on the HT leed end of the spark plug ?

Not sure what the set up is on the M20's but on my M30 the spark plugs don't have nodes for the HT leeds to fix on to they push straight on to the thread that the node screws on to ?

If a rocker is snapped then the valve won't open so you will be running on five cylinders, it's very easy to take the rocker cover off and check.

right im goin to go and have a look can you shed any light on wat im looking for? and the car appears to have aftermarket leads except for the 6th lead lol which was standerd bmw so they needed the noded on them whereas i do agree the bmw doesnt

Not sure but do all the leeds feel like they fit secureley to the spark plugs and the dizzy cap ?

Are you near another zoner with an M20 who you could try swapping HT leeds with ?

tried swapping leads all day mate and plugs

it doesnt rev right and its 5 cylinders thats why my ears pricked up when you sed about a rocker?

Try reading this tech artical about setting valve clearances as it tells you how to remove the rocker cover and shows you a picture so you can see what to look for or identify what a rocker is ?

http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... echnva.htm

And ignore me about the cam pickup being on one - I've been working to hard today!. It's on six.

cheers for the diagram after readin that article im scared lol dont really wanna take the engine to bits lol especially as ill proberbly fook it up

brain comment ignored i know how you feel about workin hard ;)

how do i change a snapped rocker?:(

bellgtti wrote:how do i change a snapped rocker?:(

You saying you have one? Can be done in situ with a bit a faffing about.
Which rocker is it?

number one rocker on the inlet side completely snapped off and chewing itself to bits

so how do you change them and is it a bmw only part or cna i get them from elsewhere ?:(

With all the tappets slackened right off on the inlet side, the adjusting cams and their nuts and bolts removed, with the rocker locating spring clips removed, with the rocker shaft locating plate at the front removed, and with the rubber D blanking plugs in the front and back of the head removed, you should be able to push the rocker shaft backwards enough to change this rocker I should think.
You will have to turn the crank quite a bit, and push rockers sideways so that they miss the stems of the valves.

just been to the local breakers he reckons easiest way is to remove the bonnet grill dizzy cam etc then slide them forwards. sed he can do it and its seven hours worth of work and on the plus side at leats it gets my car running smoothly due to it having the tappets realined etc etc