E30 Zone

My rack has got some play in it. Don’t think it’s the rubber joint, confirmed by garage. Noted during MOT but didn’t fail.
If I rebuild it, is that likely to make it better? Anyone had any similar success?
Is it better to swap for a used E30 rack?
Thanks

If the rack/pinion is worn then you cannot make it better unless you can put some metal on it, I take it they have checked the track rod joints on the ends of the rack?

DanThe wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 14, 2021 8:28 pm

If the rack/pinion is worn then you cannot make it better unless you can put some metal on it, I take it they have checked the track rod joints on the ends of the rack?

Hi Danthe
I have changed both parts of track rods.

What do members do with racks they upgrade? I’d be happy to put an E30 rack back on.

I stripped my rack down about 7 years ago as it was leaking .

I found it quite easy to do as long as one gets the pinion back in the right place relative to straight ahead position or else it is heavier.

Only pain in the butt job was disconnection of the coupling.

Adjusting the preload on the pinion helps remove the slack but if it is shagged (technical term) then best to go recon-rack.

The rack in my E30 had some minor play, i decided to reseal it. There is a main kit one could purchase from anywhere (BMW, Febi, Meyle etc) but there is a secondary "kit" that can be only purchased from BMW. It basically contains some minor items, but it contains the plastic foil for the plunger (32131132799).

As long as the steering shaft itself has no scratches, and the bore (inside the housing) is also clean and smooth, you should be good to go. It took me 2-3 hours to reseal the steering rack, mostly due to me taking my time. Heating up the plastic rings for the pinion helps expand them without breaking them/deforming them.

All the play in my rack has been eliminated completely, it is the various seals, plastic washers/foils etc that hold everything in place. It is basically the exact same procedure on the E30 as resealing a rack from the E36 or E46, even the bearings have the same part number (just the size of the seals that differ).

The torque on the bottom nut (other call it a pre-load) is set to 17nm:

Thanks for that. I might give that a go first.