E30 Zone

Hi. I recently noticed that the carpet in the footwell of the passenger side is wet. I'm fearing the worst and want to check under the carpet for rust. How easy is it to peel back the carpet? I'm guessing remove the seat, the door trim and kick panel? Is there anything else I need to know? Thanks in advance

What car is it and do you have a sunroof?

It's a 1991 convertible

It's worth checking that it's not your heater matrix leaking and also check the bulk head behind the glove box for rust.

Also look on wiki on here, bodywork click on rust, then find floor section, there are small metal squares in the floor pan in each corner, apparently used to move the car around while in production, but if mechanics use these as jacking points it breaks the underseal and the car starts rotting from underneath 15 years later you got a hole in the floor.
and wet carpets.

Also check the Door seals , bulk head behind the fuse box (behind that lovely thick absorbent sound proofing )& possibly easier than removing the glove box

arrisbmw wrote:Also look on wiki on here, bodywork click on rust, then find floor section, there are small metal squares in the floor pan in each corner, apparently used to move the car around while in production, but if mechanics use these as jacking points it breaks the underseal and the car starts rotting from underneath 15 years later you got a hole in the floor.
and wet carpets.

This is correct for saloons, but not for convertibles.

Ben

Do you leave it parked up outside, if its not the heater matrix low chance then the rubbers/seals have dried up on the roof or the windows need adjusting.

I had issues when I first bought my car 5 or 6 years ago with slight leaks on the drivers side corner on the A pillar, Gummi Phlege helped with lots of rubbing on the seals and then a regular routine also worth doing the door seals to keep them subtle.

Do you leave it parked up outside, if its not the heater matrix low chance then the rubbers/seals have dried up on the roof or the windows need adjusting.

I had issues when I first bought my car 5 or 6 years ago with slight leaks on the drivers side corner on the A pillar, Gummi Phlege helped with lots of rubbing on the seals and then a regular routine also worth doing the door seals to keep them subtle.

Have you checked the rear on the same side as well?

The cabby can suffer blocked drains in the bottom of the rear side window cavity which stop water getting out into the sill drains. This can slowly fill the cavity which eventually overflows into the foot wells - I found about 5 litre of water sloshing about in the offside rear - constant wet carpets -

Anyhoo, hope yours is easier to sort out

Paul

Also check the scuttle drain if this is blocked water will end up in the footwell eventually...

Worth checking the rear drain holes as well.

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to get it dried out over the weekend then hose it down and check for leaks. I've got the feeling it only gets damp after it's been driven in the wet though and I'm guessing that's not a good sign?

when i stripped down my cabby for the resto i removed the front wings (they bolt on) and discovered a couple of holes about the size of a 50 pence piece on both sides.

I would be inclined to remove the inner wheel protectors- the black plastic covers within the wheel wells (4 x 10mm plastic bolts at the top and 4 x 7mm on each end) and have a good poke around with a torch.

Be warned, i also discovered a further rust line with hole on the rear lip of the battery tray (passenger side).

Satan wrote:Worth checking the rear drain holes as well.

How would you do that, are these the black rubber pips that come out behind the back bumper. ?sides

jcm325 wrote:Also check the scuttle drain if this is blocked water will end up in the footwell eventually...

where do the scuttle drains start and finish, how do i check mine please. ?

jcm325 wrote:Also check the scuttle drain if this is blocked water will end up in the footwell eventually...

where do the scuttle drains start and finish, how do i check mine please. ?

I think he means drain holes in the sill bottoms - make sure they are not either full of crud or have been under sealed shut - best test is pour water into the corners of the stowage compartment by the roof hinge mounts - the water should disappear through the drains, pass through the window cavity, into and out of the sill vents onto the floor. Poking stiff wire into the sill drains will clear then out -

Paul

Also remove the access panel in the front wheel arch on both sides to see how must crud has collected behind it.

The scuttle drain is also known as the elephant trunk it's on the engine bulkhead below where the wipers sit if it's blocked the whole scuttle will fill up with water and eventually end up in the car. The elephant trunk is just to the right of centre on the drivers side of the car if I remember correctly...

jcm325 wrote: The elephant trunk is just to the right of centre on the drivers side of the car if I remember correctly...

Correct - water overflows into the heater box if it is blocked. There are also scuttle drains at each side of the car that emerge into the void above the front wheel arch liners. These are large triangular ducts, and aren't likely to block easily.
Depending on where the damp is, add the plastic films that seal the doors behind the door cards to the list. These plastic films and the sealing of to the door are not optional.

Don’t be surprised if the elephant trunk drain hose falls off!
It’s made out of rubber and perishes, goes hard and won’t want to go back on!
New ones are cheap enough from the dealer and a blob of vasoline helps refitting too...

slideout318i20 wrote:Don’t be surprised if the elephant trunk drain hose falls off!
It’s made out of rubber and perishes, goes hard and won’t want to go back on!
New ones are cheap enough from the dealer and a blob of vasoline helps refitting too...

Dropping it in hot water for a few minutes helps it to go back on.