E30 Zone

Posted: **Fri Aug 19, 2016 4:24 pm**

Once car is started in goes up to 3 and just sits there doesn't move up or down?

Any ideas on where to start?[/i]

Posted: **Fri Aug 19, 2016 4:42 pm**

cluster there crap lol

Posted: **Fri Aug 19, 2016 6:54 pm**

Are the service indicator lights working correctly, and do they reset properly?

Posted: **Sat Aug 20, 2016 10:37 am**

I suddenly lost temp guage fuel gauge rev counter and heater motor last night

Posted: **Sat Aug 20, 2016 11:53 am**

Fuse? Flat battery?

Posted: **Sat Aug 20, 2016 1:55 pm**

Brianmoooore wrote:Are the service indicator lights working correctly, and do they reset properly?

Posted: **Sat Aug 20, 2016 3:12 pm**

The service lights seem to work alright and I don't have a service reset tool

Posted: **Sat Aug 20, 2016 3:24 pm**

You dont' need a tool, just a piece of wire will do the job.

Posted: **Sat Aug 20, 2016 4:57 pm**

Temp gauge failing as well as tacho. points towards SI board batteries. They all run from the same power supply.

Posted: **Sat Aug 20, 2016 5:11 pm**

Brianmoooore wrote:Temp gauge failing as well as tacho. points towards SI board batteries. They all run from the same power supply.

You got me thinking now

Temp guage is working but wether it's accurate or not I don't know

Anyone know which pins I Gotta jump to reset service lights?

This is the plug I'm assuming;

[img][img]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af68 ... 49l3s.jpeg[/img][/img]

Posted: **Sat Aug 20, 2016 11:00 pm**

My issue turned out to be reverse light wire chafed on the prop rubbed through and shorted out blowing fuse 10 (10 amp fuse)

Removed said reverse light wiring and fit new fuse and everything works again tha k fook.

Posted: **Sun Aug 21, 2016 12:29 am**

The rev counter ain't totally dead it moves up and just sits at 3

Posted: **Sun Aug 21, 2016 1:56 pm**

e30-unit-soldier wrote:The service lights seem to work alright and I don't have a service reset tool

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ion_Lights

Ben

Posted: **Sun Aug 21, 2016 2:57 pm**

Thanks Ben

Right so I jumped the pins and the little red light is gone out and 3 green lights have lit up which go out when the car is started however for some reason all 5 green lights didn't light up.....

The orange "inspection" indicator with a clock logo next to it is still lit..

This is a pic of the cluster with the car started

Posted: **Sat Aug 27, 2016 2:38 pm**

Would it be a good shout to change the si batteries?

Posted: **Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:19 pm**

No, it would be a good idea to open up the cluster, check which kind of the two possible type of batteries you have, and then test them. Put the SI board in the freezer for ten minutes before checking the batteries.

Posted: **Sun Aug 28, 2016 5:44 pm**

Is this the right board?

Posted: **Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:23 pm**

yea looks it

Posted: **Sun Aug 28, 2016 8:46 pm**

Thar's the SI board, but it's the type with Lithium batteries, which don't deteriorate with time, like the NiCd batteries on the alternative board do. They should last indefinitely, unless the main car battery is disconnected for a time adding up to a few years.
This version of the board may not suffer from battery problems, but it can develop a few oddball faults which don't usually affect its overall operation. The most common of these is for the tacho. to jump up to a few hundred revs. when the car is switched off, but sill give accurate readings when the engine is running.
I've had little success repairing this type of board, but you can check the batteries (should be 3 volts each) and try removing the jumper link that the orange arrow is pointing to for a few minutes, which will completely remove power from the board, and hopefully cause a 'reset'.

The orange label and jumper link indicate that this is a replacement SI board that has been fitted to your car at some time in the past, btw.

Posted: **Mon Aug 29, 2016 1:34 am**

Brianmoooore wrote:Thar's the SI board, but it's the type with Lithium batteries, which don't deteriorate with time, like the NiCd batteries on the alternative board do. They should last indefinitely, unless the main car battery is disconnected for a time adding up to a few years.
This version of the board may not suffer from battery problems, but it can develop a few oddball faults which don't usually affect its overall operation. The most common of these is for the tacho. to jump up to a few hundred revs. when the car is switched off, but sill give accurate readings when the engine is running.
I've had little success repairing this type of board, but you can check the batteries (should be 3 volts each) and try removing the jumper link that the orange arrow is pointing to for a few minutes, which will completely remove power from the board, and hopefully cause a 'reset'.

The orange label and jumper link indicate that this is a replacement SI board that has been fitted to your car at some time in the past, btw.

Thanks again Brian

I must say the condition of this board is almost brand new compared to the rest of the unit and the other circuit board... Your definitely right in saying that this was probably a replacement board fitted at some point. The car was a daily for many years so I doubt it's been battery less for long periods of time.... I'll removed the jumper clip and hopefully (wishful thinking) it might rectify my fault.

Posted: **Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:18 pm**

ha ha brilliant I have a working Rev counter!

And then my council side came out...

Painted my needles red

E30 Zone

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