E30 Zone

Hi folks. I'm new to the e30 zone but have had a few BMWs in the past. I'm looking to bring a 325i touring back out to play after an embarrassing 7 years storage. Has anyone else done this and can advise me as to what to look out for? What oil to put into the plug holes to soak the pistons prior to turning over by hand etc? Cheers.

Before attempting to turn the engine over,remove the radiator and the cambelt covers.

These engine's are an 'interference' design,and after a seven year sleep,your cambelt must be considered to be scrap.IF the crank will move the belt,and the waterpump also moves,I would align the timing marks and fit a new waterpump and belt.
If the crank fails to budge,I would remove the head next to inspect the bores.

Bear in mind that the front crank bolt is torqued to about 400 ft lb,and the accepted method of loosening it is to use a long bar supported on a block of wood,then flick the ign switch....so if your crank will not move,it may pay you to attempt to slacken this bolt before you lift the engine out.

I did this last year when I brought mine out of 14 yrs dry storeage hibernation. It's fair to say I did prepare it properly when I put it away though.
I'll concentrate on the engine as that's where your question is directed. This is what I did.
Plugs out & about 50mls of RedX into each cylinder (used a kitchen baster & tubing for this), left to soak for several days. Then turned crankshaft very slowly via socket on crankshaft bolt, again over several days & topping up RedX in cylinders.
Whilst this was going on drained water from engine & rad, removed rad, full engine & rad flush.
Replaced all belts (used all new BMW parts throughout) check water pump, possible replace.
Drop all fluids, new oil & air filter, new battery, filled engine with cheapish oil.
Removed & overhauled fuel pump, new fuel filter, unleaded fuel in tank will be off, so drain as much as possible, then use fuel pump to pump out old & bring through the new fuel, did this by disconnecting fuel lines before inlet manifold & collecting fuel there. Some useful advice on Wiki for linking out fuel pump relay to operate pump by hand. Re-pressurised fuel system. Consider an injector overhaul.
Stripped & cleaned distributor, checked HT leads, coil, new spark plugs.
Refilled engine & rad with water + BMW anti freeze/inhibitor. Bleed.
After several days of hand turning the crank, I connected battery & turned engine on starter motor, no sparks, no fuel, ensuring oil pressure light went out almost immediately after turning key. Did this over a period to ensure oil fully distributed around engine. Remove as much RedX from cylinders as possible.
Connected sparks & fuel, fired engine, started first time, ran for short periods to very slowly warm through the engine. Checked water system fully bled. Ran for several hours, in shortish runs, then dropped oil & replaced along with new filter. (Actually did this twice over several days running). Also adjusted tappets at this point, cold engine of course. Used RedX for this first few tanks of fuel.

There are many other things to overhaul & check after a long layup before MOT, particularly brakes, electrics, wheels & tyres etc.
WARNING & DISCLAIMER. This all worked for me, but no guarantee it will for you. Patience & care is the game here.
Cheers & good luck

Hi chaps, thanks for the replies. Minesapint, very comprehensive, I'll definetly follow your example and go steady to ease everything in. I'm in no hurry. When it was put away it had a new timing belt kit and water pump, new radiator and coolant change and oil and filter change. I also filled the tank to the neck to avoid condensation in the tank. I guess I can say cheerio to 55 litres of unleaded, Oh well, plenty of fuel for the 2 stroke lawnmower.

Again, many thanks.

With my 333i M30 engine it sat for almost 14 years in a dry garage. Not had any problems with it, not siezed and started on the button. Yes change of oil and fluids, blew out fuel lines with compressed air, once new fluids turn over by hand with plugs out (put in high gear and push forward) check that crank turns. Then get the oil pressure up on the starter once again with no spark plugs in. Mine survived the storage. Once up and running injectors would be good to have cleaned.

treeman wrote: When it was put away it had a new timing belt kit ........I guess I can say cheerio to 55 litres of unleaded, Oh well, plenty of fuel for the 2 stroke lawnmower.

Belt itself is still time expired. Considering the mess a snapped belt makes, I'd change it soon.
2 stroke engine on my strimmer won't run on fuel that is more than three months old, never mind seven years! Use it in the E30, five litres to a tank full, and it won't cause any problems.

Is it a flymo Brian? I dont think ive ever used fuel under 3 years old in my strimmer, the chainsaw and mower love it too

Thanks chaps, I'll heed the advice and only leave the belt on to turn it over (hopefully) by hand and then fit a new kit before turning it on the starter, or starting it. Thereafter new fluids and coolant.