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Re-Shell of my crashed 325i
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 10:02 pm
by tyson_
Seeking advice or pointers for a full re-shell, what to look out for etc.
Picking up a 3dr lazurblau metallic shell tomorrow, some rust patches need welding in usual places but looks tidy other than that!
I've got reasonable mechanical knowledge and skills but by no means a professional!
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Re: Re-Shell of my crashed 325i
Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 8:06 am
by mark_i
Time... tools... and a decent place to work under cover.
in my experience, the hardest jobs are removing the exhaust, removing the rear beam/brakelines/handbrake cables, headlining/interior panels.
Re: Re-Shell of my crashed 325i
Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 10:41 am
by Brianmoooore
mark_i wrote:Time... tools... and a decent place to work under cover.
And an ability to count doors.
Re: Re-Shell of my crashed 325i
Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 8:42 pm
by tyson_
mark_i wrote:in my experience, the hardest jobs are removing the exhaust, removing the rear beam/brakelines/handbrake cables, headlining/interior panels.
Thanks! I'm currently looking for a "car spit" to rotate the shell and do all the work underneath! brake lines, fuel line and tank etc and im also thinking of painting the whole underneath, just with black car paint instead of under-seal, seems to be a lot of people who don't recommend using under-seal due to it de-laminating and causing water traps!
Re: Re-Shell of my crashed 325i
Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 8:48 pm
by Brianmoooore
Don't put bitumen based 'schultz' type underseal anywhere near an E30. This stuff is just for delaying an inevitable trip to China, as it will start to lift after a few years, form a very effective water trap, and rust will spread through the underside at a rate that's difficult to believe.
E30s are undersealed with a polyurethane sealant, which, as long as it's applied to a suitable base, doesn't suffer from this problem.