E30 Zone

What's the best method to remove the below 2 items from a m20 block, block is currently on an engine stand so clutch and flywheel has been removed;

Crank shaft bolt
Dipstick housing

Thanks in advance!

Crankshaft bolt is gonna be f*cking tight. Heres what I did with the engine off the car...

Basically, removed clutch and flywheel. Put 2 flywheel bolts back in opposite each other and put a big lever bar diagonally between them. Got mate to hold said lever bar while I got big extension bar on crank bolt and pulled until it came loose.

Get a mobile tractor/truck tyre fitter to come around with a 3/4" or 1" gun and gun the fucker off

Thanks guys for the advice!

I have read various topics on the net that the thread on the crankshaft nut is reversed?

So to undo the nut its clockwise? True or false??

SilverShadow wrote:Thanks guys for the advice!

I have read various topics on the net that the thread on the crankshaft nut is reversed?

So to undo the nut its clockwise? True or false??

False...

But the factory torque these up to something in the region of 400ft/lb,or bloody tight!

False

The reverse thread is the viscous fan

Bllx to it! After destroying a ratchet and a 27mm spanner I've come in side

I'll give it another go tomorrow with a breaker bar and see how I get on.

ive broke 2 breaker bars a tooling vice and 2 broken fingers trying to get them undone before

Whilst I accept that two strong men can free this bolt the easy way is to use the starter motor with the block still installed in the car.

So if you are working alone,this may,just,be your best option....

I'm going to give it a last go tomorrow evening with my mate and the breaker bar.

If no luck I'll take it to a local garage to get it undone using a air gun assuming that it would work?

Yeah, a garage should have decent compressor, air line, and air gun that'll get it off.

where abouts in west London are you? I have a 18v gun that we can give a go if you want

all about a compressor,

Quaser wrote:where abouts in west London are you? I have a 18v gun that we can give a go if you want

I doubt that will touch it to be honest.

These can be a right cow to undo. To have half a chance you need a 6 sided socket on there and as above, a 3/4" drive set up. And a long extension tube. Your mate on the other end is going to need to be like iron man. You may get away with 1/2" drive but be prepared for the breaker bar to go before the bolt.
Make sure your mate has a good purchase on the flywheel end.

FFS as per my first post... Opposing bolts into flywheel holes and lever bar between. Breaker bar on the other end, extend with steel tube as required to give extra torque. If necessary use mother earth as the opposing force with mate holding the block.

Think like Archimedes dude!

would 100lb@4ft be enough ?????

kam-325i wrote:would 100lb@4ft be enough ?????

I pondered about this when I re-built my engine.
My old Williams torque wrench only goes up to 100ft/lb,so I tightened to this first.I then discovered that the clutch is vgood for 275 ft/lb,so with the engine back in the car I re-tightened until the clutch slipped...I check it every 30k miles/3 years when the cambelt is changed,and it's not worked loose,yet!

daimlerman wrote:

kam-325i wrote:would 100lb@4ft be enough ?????

I pondered about this when I re-built my engine.
My old Williams torque wrench only goes up to 100ft/lb,so I tightened to this first.I then discovered that the clutch is vgood for 275 ft/lb,so with the engine back in the car I re-tightened until the clutch slipped...I check it every 30k miles/3 years when the cambelt is changed,and it's not worked loose,yet!

i was asking if you applied a 100lb force at a distance of 4ft from the point of rotation, would it be the same as appling a 400lb force at a distance of 1ft...

get an electric 1/2 rattle gun.. You dont need anyone to hold anything or anything to lock it off.

You can do it with one of those cordless drills with a hammer setting and a socket attachment. just make sure you use minimum of 1/2 drive. they may be tight but impact tools ignore how much they are torqued.

Forget swinging on breaker bars and bashing yourself to bits with hammers and spanners.

When you torque it back up. my experience is 700nm is a very good tug (giving it you all) on a 5 foot torque wrench where i work. and i do a lot of bolts!! so for 400nm a 3 foot bar or tube giving it all you got is going to be good enough.

My advice with putting them back on is anything over 150nm is good as long as you use some locktite

kam-325i wrote:
i was asking if you applied a 100lb force at a distance of 4ft from the point of rotation, would it be the same as appling a 400lb force at a distance of 1ft...

Yes. Applied force must be at right angles to the breaker bar.

Thanks lads for all of the advice!

Managed to get the nut undone!

Any recommendations with the dipstick housing?

SilverShadow wrote:
Any recommendations with the dipstick housing?

That's easy,just pull the bugger out!

kam-325i wrote:

daimlerman wrote:

kam-325i wrote:would 100lb@4ft be enough ?????

I pondered about this when I re-built my engine.
My old Williams torque wrench only goes up to 100ft/lb,so I tightened to this first.I then discovered that the clutch is vgood for 275 ft/lb,so with the engine back in the car I re-tightened until the clutch slipped...I check it every 30k miles/3 years when the cambelt is changed,and it's not worked loose,yet!

i was asking if you applied a 100lb force at a distance of 4ft from the point of rotation, would it be the same as appling a 400lb force at a distance of 1ft...

I am sorry,in my ignorance I assumed that you had made a typo but Brian's answer makes purr-fect sense to me!

daimlerman wrote:

SilverShadow wrote:
Any recommendations with the dipstick housing?

That's easy,just pull the bugger out!

Is it as simple as that? I thought they were screwed in?

When you re-fit,use a smear of a polyurathene sealant.

I have always used/suggested a silicone sealant,but polyurathene is far better.

Slogging spanner, lump hammer, blowtorch.

it will no doubt be rusted up but as malco says they're just slid in originally.

I've always done the crank bolts up to 280Nm on the re build and never had one come loose. Its as far as my torque wrench goes. The rotation of the engine keeps it tight also. I know its 120Nm short of the factory figure but thats my experience