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Wet footwell help - Another problem. - Brake fluid?*
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 3:49 pm
by Brinkland
Hey
I found out today that the carpet was a little wet. Have read in e30wiki that it is something from the heating system.
How much should I strip down to get in and see what's wrong? Can I do this / is it easy enough?
hope anybody can help

Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 4:09 pm
by capri_rob
It can be a number of things - If the body is in good order ( i.e no bulkhead or floor rot ) the likely culprit is the heater valve which doesnt require a lot of actual stripping to get at its just very fiddly.
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 4:30 pm
by polsta
Check the front jacking points,rear foot wellbungs,sill drainage slits and elephant trunk before going at the heater
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 4:39 pm
by Aziz
polsta wrote:Check the front jacking points,rear foot wellbungs,sill drainage slits and elephant trunk before going at the heater
as above also check bulk head
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 5:34 pm
by Brinkland
I think it's coolant, but I will just try to look at the car ....
I have not run in the rain or something, the car is in the garage and only runs when the sun shines
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 6:07 pm
by Jim320i
If you dont take it out in the rain then ignore the above apart from capri_rob, it will be heater related.
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:50 pm
by Brinkland
Jim320i wrote:If you dont take it out in the rain then ignore the above apart from capri_rob, it will be heater related.
okay thanks. I have removed the glovebox.
Should I remove the entire instrument panel ?
how many covers should I remove? all the radio and heat adjustment, clock etc?
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:04 pm
by Jim320i
Only passenger side trim needs removing if its a RHD car
Image stole from google but this shows it
Middle of the picture you see a pipe at the base, this is the usual spot it leaks. I assume some new o rings would sort this but let someone confirm first.
Another image from google but close up
Thats the area you need to be in.
Easy to get to, undo the 2 nuts holding the glovebox bracket on that are attach to the bulk head first, 10mm I think, then drop the glove box and move it out your way, you'll need to pop the 3 clips holding the torch loom onto the side of the glove box.
Then its the glove box plastics, top bit first from memory, screw that the from then some plastic twisting locks on either side, then you can remove the right side trim, same thing, screw at the front and a twisty plastic thing at the back, although im sure you can see it with out removing all this but might just give you a bit of extra space.
Might be worth getting the engine up to temp at that point and seeing if you can see it leaking at all, that way you'll know exactly which point its coming from
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:10 pm
by Grrrmachine
Brinkland, just remember that when these UK guys talk about removing the glovebox, it means removing the panel under the steering column on left-hand drive (LHD) cars like we have in Europe.
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:25 pm
by Brinkland
Grrrmachine wrote:Brinkland, just remember that when these UK guys talk about removing the glovebox, it means removing the panel under the steering column on left-hand drive (LHD) cars like we have in Europe.
okay thanks alot... My BMW is LHD. so I should not remove the glove-box??
sits the heating system the same place on a LHD or RHD?
Should I fix it from the drivers side or passenger side in LHD? should I remove other things when mine is LHD
thanks alot it is a great help to me
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:28 pm
by Jim320i
You need to remove your Driver side under dash trim.
The things behind the dash are all in the same place as RHD, its just the exteria thats different.
To remove the under dash trim its just 3 plastic scres at the front and one in the centre, watch the back section as this clips into a clip onto the steering column so you want to pull it forward, if you visually look, you'll spot it, then its in the same place pictured above, you'll spot it straight the way

Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:38 pm
by Brinkland
Jim320i wrote:You need to remove your Driver side under dash trim.
The things behind the dash are all in the same place as RHD, its just the exteria thats different.
To remove the under dash trim its just 3 plastic scres at the front and one in the centre, watch the back section as this clips into a clip onto the steering column so you want to pull it forward, if you visually look, you'll spot it, then its in the same place pictured above, you'll spot it straight the way

Thanks!
I'll try tomorrow. Then I start it and let it get hot? and then see where it is leaking.
it is guaranteed it is around the pipe, and the white plastic from the radiator is leaking?
or it may be the radiator in the grills that may have gone to pieces, or it will never happen?
https://www.koed.dk/functions/billede.a ... .jpg&map=1
Re: Wet footwell help
Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:53 pm
by Brianmoooore
Most common place to leak is the join between the two halves of the electric valve you can just see in the last pic. This leak can be caused by a failing pressure release valve in the radiator pressure cap, which should have been replaced in a 1997 safety recall, but in many cases wasn't, and still hasn't been.
The heater matrix itself can fail, but I've never seen one yet.
Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 8:14 am
by Brinkland
Re:
Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 8:21 am
by Jim320i
You sure it's not clutch fluid if its coming from the clutch pedal? It could be your clutch master leaking. Check the fluid bottle in the engine bay for a start to see if its empty if if the brake one is low?
Re:
Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 8:41 am
by Brinkland
Jim320i wrote:You sure it's not clutch fluid if its coming from the clutch pedal? It could be your clutch master leaking. Check the fluid bottle in the engine bay for a start to see if its empty if if the brake one is low?
the black thing is a clutch mastercylinder? Its comming from it. if I press many times on the clutch pedal, it will be wet by the rubber piece.
it uses brake fluid from the same fluidbottle as the brakes? I actually have a few days ago filled it up when it was down to minimum.
brake fluid/clutch fluid is the same? Or?
Re:
Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 8:45 am
by Jim320i
Stole from Google...
Thats the master and will need replacing then, mine does the same, although mines a turd and I just keep topping it up.
Fiddly to replace but its not too hard, i've read on here too that its always wise to replace the slave cylinder too at the same time else that will shortly fail after you replace this one but let someone confirm that. (The slave is located on the side of a gear box)
All can be done at home with some basic kit and a box of swear words

Re:
Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 9:02 am
by Brinkland
okay thanks!
Should I take it all off as the picture, or can I remove only the clutch mastercylinder?
If I remove it, run all the liquid so out of the system?
are there som brakefluidhoses or pipes to be released in the engine bay, or can it all be made only from the inside?

Re:
Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 9:47 am
by Brianmoooore
LH drive E30s use a combined reservoir for the clutch and brake fluid. Running the clutch fluid right out won't lower the fluid level enough to affect the brakes though.
RH drive E30s use separate fluid reservoirs - one on each side of the car. The 'nipple' on the side of a RH drive brake reservoir is where the clutch fluid pipe would connect if that particular bottle had ended up in a LH drive car.
The clutch fluid reservoir is easy enough to remove on its own - two bolts to the metalwork, the pin to the pedal, the rubber fluid supply pipe and the outlet pipe to the clutch. The latter is under the bonnet, the other side of the rubber grommet where the cylinder goes through the bulkhead.
Very good idea to remove the driver's seat for this job!
If the cylinder is replaced, it is considered good practice to replace the slave as well, since debris from the failed seals will likely have gone down the pipe to contaminate the slave seals, and, when a new master is fitted, it will push the slave piston marginally further in its bore, into a ring of crud that will have formed over the years.
Before you dive in, check that the leak isn't from the connection of the rubber hose to the cylinder.
Re:
Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 10:42 am
by polsta
Guys - with regards to this stuff , should I replace some bits like the orings etc and what else to check ? Whilst I have s this exposed ?
Re:
Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 7:13 pm
by Brinkland
okay thanks. I will buy the parts soon, and then I try to change it

Re:
Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 8:52 am
by Brinkland
The hose that goes down to the master, it is one I should pull off, or how is it attached?
and when I loosened the two small bolts and the big going through the "eye" can I pull the master further into the cabin, so I can loosen the pipe/nut on the bottom? or it must be loosened from engine bay?

Re:
Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 9:14 pm
by Brinkland
I made it today. It was not as bad as I thought. But now it works
Thanks guys !
