E30 Zone

hi

removing the torx bolts for the drive shafts and the first one sheared straight off, GUTTED !!

So then removed the 4 bolts off that flange and i still can't get the drive shaft off

any idea what options i have now ?

thanks, help most appreciated

jim

You don't need to remove the four bolts to pull the drive flange out! Get them back in. It's just held in by a snap ring, and levers out, but the problem you have is getting enough room for it to come all the way out and clear the diff. casing.
Options: Unbolt the other shaft, unbolt the diff. and move it away from the broken bolt side as you lower it.
Dismantle the suspension on this side, unbolt the trailing arm, and move it out far enough for the drive flange to clear the diff case.
VERY carefully cut the remainder of the head of the bolt off with a disc cutter. The 'reinforcement' tab will get destroyed, but will protect the surface of the flange.

The next time you do a job like this, get some WD40 or similar on there beforehand.

I'd remove the opposite driveshaft, remove the nuts holding the prop to the input flange, remove the bolts securing the diff to the subframe, remove the diff bush bolt, and maneuver the diff sideways away from offending driveshaftt

Brain & I must've been typing at the same time there!

thanks guys, i hope i can get the other side torx flange bolts off

i appreciate what you said here

get some WD40

Brian as i've done this trick many times but i honestly don't think it would have made any difference here, these bolts are mega mega tight.

i'll soak the other side though

The bolts on mine were allen bolts :S

Yer the later cars used torx like the gear box bolts , they are complete sh1t

jimbom30cab wrote:Yer the later cars used torx like the gear box bolts , they are complete sh1t

Hex bolts weren't too clever either! I've had a few of them round off on me. I find the torx ones better - they can force the driver backwards and slip if you're not careful, but I've never seen one shear off like that!

I know it might sound like the nuclear option but would it be easier to replace the entire rear beam if I had a spare complete with everything ?

I've got no exhaust or prop on the car at the moment and its a cab

if all else fails remove wot torqs u can & cut the heads off the dodgy 1s with a cutting disc so u can sparate then its penetrating oil/coca cola & some vicegrips to remove the rest of the bolt

I'd suggest putting an Irvin remover onto the sheared one. They've worked miracles for me in the past after the hot spanner and before the grinder.

Seem to remember that when I swapped the diff on my first touring(a 93 K plate),I had three of those male torx bolts lose their fins.I ended up slicing their heads of with my angle grinder and replaced the swines with stainless Allen headed bolts.

Following this,I now routinely swap these torx bolts out!

Topblag wrote:I'd suggest putting an Irvin remover onto the sheared one. They've worked miracles for me in the past after the hot spanner and before the grinder.

+1

Could always try one of these

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ogId=10151

jimbom30cab wrote:hi

removing the torx bolts for the drive shafts and the first one sheared straight off, GUTTED !!

So then removed the 4 bolts off that flange and i still can't get the drive shaft off

any idea what options i have now ?

thanks, help most appreciated

jim

Bolt that side cover back into the diff, push the output shaft back in, cut the head off that bolt in situ and pull the CV off the ouput as much as possible, then cut the bolt off short if you need to which will let you swing the drive shaft down away from the diff.

WD40 wont make a blind bit of difference here, a good fitting socket is what counts

will do, but i have a feeling the other flippin bolts will shear off also

slight problem with the socket, the old head is well and truly stuck inside as i hammered the socket onto the torx bolt to ensure a v tight fit.

need to pop to halfrauds to get another.

cheers Dan and everyone else.

I've found a complete rear sub frame with no diff, so i think i'll fit my new diff to that and then fit the whole subframe to the car in one go. Whilst out i'll get the lot powder coated and the bushes changed.

If you are working at home with the car on axle stands it is easier to re-build a bit at a time.
Axle carrier
Diff
Trailing arms

Jim,
Contrary to the above I actually found it easier to assemble everything including diff onto the ream beam. Then lift one end up and slide the jack under the diff and lift the whole lot in as one. A little precarious but I hate lying on the floor for a long time so this was quickest and easiest for me!
Each to there own though.

Thanks Henry , it does sound easier that way to me. I don't think mine will look as good as yours though