E30 Zone

Good Evening

I am thinking of welding up a rollover jig similar to

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CORTINA-MINI- ... 632wt_1270


If anybody has done this before i would very much appreciate some advice on section sizes used, design issues and any photos would be great as I haven't seen one of these in the flesh before.

Many Thanks

iain

a few on here have made their own, I was looking into buying one last year and MK2MANIA seem to know what they are doing,

Email them for a quote on making you one ?

thanks for your reply. I'll get in touch for a quote although I am very stingy and will probably weld one up myself. If anybody has any photos of the mounting brackets that would be a great help. was thinking of some scaff tubes and a couple of bits of box section. Whatever I can find lying about. Got a pillar drill, grinder and welder at home so i might as well give it a go.

any help very much appreciated

the bumper mounts are used,

That's brilliant mate. Any idea what type bearing is used. was thinking of getting a pipe that fits fairly snug into another 50/60mm OD or thereabouts. I assume the original bolts are used or would high tensile ones be a good idea. Found this video http://www.rolloverjigs.com/#!__jigs-on-video

That company does kits but looks quite light weight. I'd be happier with heavier sections because i'll have to leave it outside in windy scotland

found this as well

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/show ... &showall=1

good idea but looks pretty dodgy

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&start=25

X-works made one and was kind enough to put up a design:


http://www.xworksmotorsport.com/m3%20bu ... 282%29.JPG

Very nice, thats a great help. Thanks very much for the link

These housed bearings seems to be the way forward and there's plenty of these on ebay for anybody who's interested

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=h ... m270.l1313

Need to decide on whether to buy steel or stihl saw, running shoes and balaclava. i wont be able to start making this for a few weeks due to stupid work commitments and a stupid van thats held together with silicone (never buy anything without history in a hurry)

I made one losely based on xworks' I didn't use a bearing, instead I got 2 pipes and shoved them inside each other and welded a long bolts to the end to stop it from pulling out. Drilled a few holes through the pipes then to lock it in position. I've not dared to have mine upside down though.

Works really well, wouldn't like to have been working on the car without one. The most expensive cost for me was the castor wheels I put on mine. The metal came to around 100euro and I have some box lenghts over, and some angle which I was meant to weld on for bracing.

thats a good idea you had with the locking mechanism. did you any problems with it sticking at the rotor. I was thinking of doing something like xworks but beefing it up so its strong enough for suspension wheels etc. based on you own design how high from ground to the center of the bearing would give enough clearance for wheels.

many thanks

iain

I'll measure the height of the centre later. I've not had wheels on it, have had front and rear subframes on. It get s very heavy with both on and very hard to spin.

I greased up the 2 pipes before inserting one into the other, there's the odd sound of it all twisting a bit but thats down to both sides not being level.

Here's a pic:


The bend in the bottom was from having the engine hoise leaning on it while lifting the whole car so we could get it onto the spit.

looks like a sturdy job mate. box section must be plenty strong, think i'll use the same. looks like there's plenty clearance for the wheels on yours. think i'll use the bearings though since i'll be leaving it outside and don't want it seizing. Thanks for the picture, gives a good insight into what has worked for other people.

Is that the back of your house mate, if so you're my hero

Reckon it should be ok outside, mines been under a lean-to for the past year now, part of that had it's arse sticking out from underneat. Both pipes arent a tight fit.



Spit centre is roughly 900mm from the underside of the box section and another 120mm or so then with the wheels. Not sure if you could still spin it if you had wheels on, would make it very hard to do so anyway.

Never been called a hero before

its not important for the wheels anyway but could be handy. Was it a pain in the arse to get it onto the spit. I'm thinking of maybe making an axle stand type of arrangement for uprights where I can take it up to full height it maybe 3 stages but maybe i'm just getting carried away here.

It was a bit of a pain. It's a year ago now, I think we lifted one side on first and then the other. I've had one end of the spit a few times by propping some wheels under the cills or chassis legs. Will see in (hopefully) a few weeks how much hassle it is to get it of the spit again and on some wheels.

might try and incorporate scaffold jacks into the mounting bracket design such as

http://www.siteright.net/underpinning-jacks-p-115.html

if I can get a hold of some used ones. Maybe a bit of scaff tube welded onto each end of the channel section on the brackets. scaff jacks can be used to square up the jig when lifting with trolley jacks and then removed afterwards. could make life much easier. your help is very much appreciated. All the best

iain

I wouldn't put to much effort/thought into it really. The little bit of hassle lifting it on or of is more than made up by how easy it to work on the car with the spit.

Not sure if anybody is watching this but I have almost completed my rollover jig. just a few finishing touches and its done but unfortunately i am imprisoned on an oil rig for the next fortnight. I will try to upload some photos now.

You won't have problems anyway lifting it on/off the spit!


I might have to weld something similar onto mine cause I've no idea how I'll get it of :p

Of course I have made 'a' frames for the front and back as well but do not have the photos available to me now. I made the A frames in such a way that they are bolted together in 2 sections for easy storage when not in use. The scaffold jacks on the ends of the channel section is an addition onto the traditional design for the purpose of easy mounting onto the jig 'A' frame and can also be used instead of axle stands when working underneath the car. The idea is that when the car is mounted onto the jig the jacks can be wound back, car rotated and jacks removed. I welded on a crank pick up as a component of the locking mechanism. I got the bearings from ebay for about £7 each. i used second hand kwikstage scaffolding and channel sections were new. advantage of using kwikstage scaffolding is that it is cheap, easily to get, strong and all ready painted although this can cause shitey lungs if welding in an unventilated area. The normal scaffold is galvanized and was told that its crap to weld because the galv is right the way through. (Not sure if that even makes sense but thats what I was told).

Thats all the photos i've got at the moment. Just got a couple of bits and pieces to tidy up on the 'A' frames before I try her out. Will be busy with work for the next couple of weeks but will update after that

Allright mate. just noticed your reply. Thanks for taking the time to show me pics and links before. it was very useful.

the scaff jacks worked out well. doesn't wind up/down on the jacks very easily but it is possible. it does hold it in place if your wanting to take it down in stages though. they are just the hollow type which i've been told are rated at 4 ton each on a vertical load so even used ones are well over rated for the job. only cost me £15 for 4.

Probably too late but here is one i knocked up for myself








Gotta say these things are awesome for a resto i could never lie under a car and weld.

Leigh

Gotta ask ,what do these bare shells weigh around? anyone got any mount pics for a chromie spit? the front should be fine but i wouldn't like to put too much weight on just the 3 tiny holes on the back that the bumper mounts on

looks good mate, is that an m3 replica your building. if so how did you get on with the rear quarters? was it fairly straight forward? your shell looks in good order too mate

i had a few beers last week and decided to buy m3 rear quarters rather than furniture for my new house so i'd better put them to good use.

not sure about the weight mate. could be wrong but the kerb weight is something like 1250kg. without the heavy cast iron block engine, gearbox, running gear etc its a lot less but couldnt put a figure on it

Just went on bmwfans and it says the weight of the shell alone is 227.000 kg, My roll over jig will take more weight than that though, All the suspension is now fitted but i would not fit the engine, the jig is good for fitting most of the stuff under the car though.

The car is a m3 evo II

You will need a roof apron if your building a replica, also a few bits needed..

Leigh

Sorry dude, looks mint mate. good luck with the refurb

Just a little warning to anybody doing a rollover jig. one of the bolts snapped on my bumper mount without a huge amount of torque on it although I had done some repairs to the car where it must have had a front end bump before. could be an idea to use new bolts and possibly upgrade to high tensile 10.9 or 12.9 for piece of mind especially if the car has had a front ender before.

cheers

I know this is old but forgot to ad my photo of complete jig



It worked well but the bearing didnt support it very well so I welded on extra support/bearing in the form of a scaff tube (after this photo was taken). It worked but an extra housed bearing on the other side of the upright would have been ideal.