E30 Zone

So everyone always says the same thing about these, dont fiddle with the adjustment! However i have brought a number of second hand ones to try and find one that hasnt been fiddled with, but how can you ever be sure?

There must be a set amount of turns out from fully in that is the factory standard for say a (082) afm? This makes sense in my head as surely they all left the factory in the same position?

The latest one i have fitted was only 1 quarter turn out from fully wound in? is this even close to standard?

who knows? but i would love too! can any one shed some light?

Adam

Hi.
I think they were all set up on the cars on the factory floor and then had anti tamper part put into the adjusting hole. So they did not have a set position.

You need to make adjustments on a gas analyser machine to get the best overall mixture.

I did see a brand new one on e-bay yesterday very cheap. I think it was in Australia.

Hope that helps.

wjc wrote:Hi.
You need to make adjustments on a gas analyser machine to get the best overall mixture.

BUT every other aspect of the engine needs to be in full working order first, or you will just be masking another fault, and the end result will be that when the 'other fault' is cured, possibly unknowingly by routine servicing or other work, the engine will still not perform correctly.

On another thread it was pointed out that the actual mixture adjustement is under the big black cap and not the allen key one that that is found on the top of the AFM. Does that sound correct?

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&start=25

read that thread dude.. the allen head screw is only an idle air bypass adjustment. mainly for idle emissions adjustments.

inside the cover is for factory setup and the external is for fine tuning.

any one got an icv for sale

there is a rough set position.. at my old bmw dealers the chap said if its been messed with, screw it fully in then back it out 2 and a half turns or 3 and a half turns.. it was a while ago so i cant remember which it was but even if you know the rough setting it will still need fine tuning so may as well just get it plugged up and set properly anyways, but as said above make sure the rest of the system is functioning properly first otherwise it will be set to balance out another problem (it there is a fault) im sure there is a post on checking the entire system somewhere on here

I read to lean it out till the idle just starts to become uneven, then go back 1/4 or 1/2 and you won't be a million miles out. Needs a CO measure to set properly though.

blue30 wrote:I read to lean it out till the idle just starts to become uneven, then go back 1/4 or 1/2 and you won't be a million miles out. Needs a CO measure to set properly though.

That's how we set up carbs. forty years ago, and will get you in the ball park, but nowhere near good enough for the MOT man.

look down the 5mm allen key hole, there should be a punch mark along the sidewall somewhere, that is the default position, obv have a good clean 1st !

dont touch the internals !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! best left to idiots

My 2p

hmmm interesting, i think my idle isues are icv related gonna get a new one and see what happens

if you have idle problems make sure there are no air leaks first !

yeh all seems fine

What icv do u need? T or l shape? I have both

not sure, its for my chromie 325? looks tshaped ish

Adams-Sideways wrote:not sure, its for my chromie 325? looks tshaped ish

Are the two pipe connectors in line with each other (T shaped), or at right angles to each other (L shaped)?

take it off and clean it first with some wd40,might be gunked up.

"l" shape let "t" shape right

L Shaped one if anyone has a decent one forsale?