E30 Zone

Hi everyone

Has anyone attempted replacing all of the bushes/pivot pins? i assume that this is what is causing the play... i have about 2cm of linkage play (holding the master rod still thats how far the pedal can move.



Thanks

'Play' in brake linkage doesn't matter, since you only ever apply force in one direction.
Slacken off the lock nuts and turn rod 11 using a 7mm open ended spanner on the flats near the clutch pedal to adjust it until the brake pedal only has a small bit of upwards free movement to its stop. One end of 11 has a reverse thread, so turning it changes its length.

17mm spanner,IIRC!

17mm for the lock nuts; 7mm for the rod itself.

is the rod threaded on both sides? like wouldnt that just thread the rod out of one clevis(is that the word) into the other? my mate told me you want to take the pin out of one and dislodge it then spin the nut/clevis.

not saying you are wrong i just want to be 100% sure before i get into this.

Yes. If Brian says adjust the rod, adjust the rod ;)

Brianmoooore wrote:

Brianmoooore wrote: One end of 11 has a reverse thread, so turning it changes its length.

WHAT??


thanks guess i should take time to read.

now i am probably going to get my arse kicked or be shunned for being this stupid buuut..

To reduce the play i would want to extend the linkage out so that the pedal linkages are raised thus reducing the play... right?

Wrong! It's a pull rod, not a push rod, so it needs to be shortened.

ok ive shortened it to the point where the clevis? perfectly lines up on both ends with the pedal at stock height. play seems a tiny bit better but i might be imagining it. there is still some free play however it is better than before.

Would i want to take it further and start to put pressure on it? trying to think it in my head (im not a mechanical person) i figured doing so would cause the master side to be pulled towards the centre of the car closing the MC, or it could pull the brake pedal side pushing the pedal linkages up

again sorry to pester you to spell it out for me but i just want to be sure.

What do you mean by "stock height"? There's a small rubber buffer on the lowest part of the bracket that holds the brake light switch, and the rod should be shortened until the arm of the pedal all but touches this buffer.
If you over tighten things, so that the pedal is touching the buffer and moving the master cylinder push rod, the brakes are likely to lock on.

my pedalbox has no buffer im fairly sure

ive adjusted the brake sensor sucessfully before too



I have a video of the pedal viewable here



a stopper would solve this problem actually as setting the middle linkage to have 0 offset fixed my main problem.

There is also another adjustable rod that goes on the booster that i can adjust to get it closer.

i fixed my gripes by adding a stopper. yay!

but without your help it still would have been shite so thanks!