E30 Zone

hello people i am currently upgrading my management to motronic 1.3. but the new loom has a big round plug next to the fuse box and my old loom has a square one.

so what i would like to know is could i cut the round one off and solder the square one on. thanks for reading

also if anyone has a wiring diagram for pre motronic and one for motronic 1.3. that would be a real help. for joining them.

The best solution would be to get the matching round connector on the car side, plus the length of wire into the fusebox, and then splice the two looms together inside the fusebox. It will largely consist of joining the same colour wires together.
Engine speed signal and fuel rate signal don't go through your existing engine loom connector, so you will have to add a couple of wires from the fusebox splice to the plug for them from your cluster.

any chance you have a drawing of which two wires i need to add, from where and to where. please. thanks brian

one more question, anyone know if theres a giude to setting up the timming on an m20, cant find one.

got a new problem now. the end of my cam is different to the one that the new cam pulley came off. so it doesnt fit. this is turning in to a real night mare.

Same cam pulley is listed pre and post Dec '86. You should just need to add #6 and #7 http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E30/2 ... ooth_belt/

sorry about that one just my stupidity. cam pulley and crank pulley now on. gona do the loom tonight. and hopefully she'll be running tomorow. i remember reading somwhere that pin 20 on the c101 can cause a fire, something to do with the abs. i think it was your post brian. do i need to put it down to earth or cut it off fold it back and heat shrink it.

Matt,

Your not mucking around getting this going are you.

You had me worried with the Cam thing, glad its all coming together.

i was looking at the cam gear the wrong way round. and started panicing. lol. just gota sort the loom and fit the inlet manifold and reroute a water hose as the dizzys in the way now. but should hopefully be running tomorow. fingers crossed. thanks for the help with all the bits mick.

more questions. anyone know the order ofthe leads on the dizzy cant see any numbers. and how do i get the old dizzy out of the side of the block. it just wont move. thanks.

My Haynes manual says HT leads at dizzy cap are as follows:
(apologies for crap diagram, but you get the idea...)
_________________________
/--------------------------------------\
/------4-------To Coil--------1--------\
/-----------------------------------------\
/---2-------6--------------3---------5---\
/--------------------------------------------\

Undo the base clamp bolts and the old dizzy should then rotate and pull free. If not, use Plus Gas or similar releasing agent and leave to soak overnight. If it won't budge, don't attempt to remove it until you have the Motronic up and running, as you may need to revert back to standard.

Found this diagram also, which may be of use:
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i237/ ... 8iC101.jpg

top man. cheers speedtouch. i would never have even thought anout this conversion if not for your help. so thankyou.

That's OK Matt, btw, I just added an extra diagram to the above that you may want to check out, plus as an added bonus, there's this article:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1045649

they tend to seize in place ally and steel next to each other for 25 years etc..... leave it soaking in wd40 over night and then try tapping it round with a hammer and chizel.
have you got the face lift bung and the oil pump drive cog to fit in its place??


luckily yours isnt an old e21 carb m20 like mine was...... i had to make a little plate to cover the hole left by the old fuel pump.....

thanks again speedtouch, i will be doin the wiring in the morning so that info will definatly come in usefull. iv been looking on net alot today and found nothing. how did you find that.

i didnt know i needed an oil pump drive cog. thought i could just pull the old dizzy out and blank off the hole.

looks like youve mad a good job of it tho murran looks oem.

Always pays to check out Google images as well as the normal search function

once again speedtouch to the rescue. cheers dude

nope, youd have had no drive to the oil pump then.
the hexagonal rod that drives the oil pump slots into the bottom of the dizzy cog/shaft. theres a cog on the later engines that drops onto the rod and theres a little bearing in the bung providing support for it.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=30
no. 18. is under the blanking bung on 1.3 cars. this bit is part of the dizzy on yours.

thanks! i converted the old e21 320/6 engine using 320i motronic bits from an 89 2 door e30.

didnt stop the old 320/6 engine burning sh1t loads of oil tho. 325i lump followed shortly after.

looks like im going to the scrap yard tomorow or i could just leave the old dizzy in couldnt i, and deal with it at a later date. i love e21s, i would have one, but the rust on the e30 is a fulltime job so theres no way i could deal with an e21. lol.

Several years ago I was actively looking for one of these distributors to fit to my lpg/petrol touring. I already had two completely independent fuel systems, and thought that with this old type distributor fitted I'd have a car that, short of a cambelt failure, I could get running anywhere with no spares and minimal tools.

i literally threw my e21 dizzy down the garden, along with the horrid solex carb. and im not kidding.

got a few more questions jioned the two looms together today for the c101. and have fewe wires left over.

pin 15 black and green
pin 12 grey
pin 9 black
pin 20 red and yellow
pin 14 balck and white
pin 16 white and black
pin 8 white and black

not a clue what there for as the pinout diagram i have only has the wires the match the square c101
someone help me please

Hi Matt,
Maybe these may be of use:
http://www.300mm.de/download/motorstecker.jpg

http://media.photobucket.com/image/BMW% ... Pinout.jpg

Alternatively, there's this - the E34 list on the left matches your colour wires:
http://media.photobucket.com/image/BMW% ... ing1-1.jpg

15/ blk/gn: This is for the unloader relays, and goes to a terminal on the starter motor. The pre facelift arrangement uses a small black/yellow wire which connects to the larger start signal black/yellow wire (I think) at your old engine loom socket. You can either connect to the small black/yellow wire (separated from the big one) or leave things as they are and ignore the black/green.
12/ grey: This is the engine fault light wire from the engine ECU. Not used in UK E30s.
9/ black: engine speed signal. One of the missing wires I mentioned earlier.
20/Switched live feed for ABS. This is the one that causes the meltdown problems when connected to earlier cars that already have 20 pin sockets on the car loom. Some cars have a brown earth wire connected to pin 20, and 12 volt ignition switched unfused live to earth is not good! If you have ABS it will be the early version with its own relay beside the ECU, so won't be needed.
14/ blk/wte: Road speed signal from instrument cluster to ECU. Tells the ECU when the car is moving. Won't make much difference if not connected.
8/ wte/blk: Fuel rate signal. This is the other one missing from the early engine loom socket. Run wires from the C104 socket (or is it C103?) near the cluster to your new 20 pin C101.
IIRC, this wire is yellow/white on older stuff.

thanks again speedtouch. and top info again brian. will get the two missing wires sorted tomorow.

i have been looking on net for quite a portion of today, and found nothing. i must be looking in the wrong places.

thanks lads. will let you know when shes running. thanks.

how do i get the ecu plug apart i cant work it out. also there are three wires at the starter motor conection a big red one medium black one and the green and black one that i brian explained i can ignore. not do the other two just go on to the came conection.

and, lol, there is a round plug that would be sokmewhere near wher the batery is four pins on it, but i dont have anything to connect to it.

cheers that willinz, trying to open the ecu plug but its a b*****d, lol

can i just jion the wires from old oil sender plug to new loom. as the old sensoe has two wires and new one three

There should be four wires on the starter motor: A large black from the battery, a medium red going to the alternator (these two go onto the same terminal), a black/yellow going a 6mm stud (may have a black outer sleeve), and the black/green.
Four pin plug near battery clips underneath the battery tray, and is for a lambda sensor. Normally fitted with a blanking cap and not used.

rite that s good sorted the starter and the round plug now. cheers brian. inlet is goin on now. ohh yesss. thanks all. you know anything about the oil level sender brian, cheers

all above sorted. twio more things. next to the battery i have a bunch of red wires in a crimp and a buch of brown wires in two crimps on top of each other. not sure where these go to. help willmbe much apreciated. were nearly there. thanks

If it's plain red it goes to battery +; if it's plain brown it goes to battery neg. - in practice the terminal on the strut tower.

got you cheers again brian.

last question under the throttle bodythere is a thin pipe goin to what i think is an oxygen sensor. and a plug from the loom attaches to it. there is a small pipie coming off the bottom but i have no where to out it. some help me please. its the last thing then she can be fires up. hopefully. thanks

More emissions rubbish!
Your "oxygen sensor" is a solenoid valve which vents the fuel tank via a carbon cannister.
Remove the solenoid valve, cable tie the wire to the AFM wire, cut the rubber tube from the inlet manifold short and block it. The standard set up has a little rubber cap over the stub pipe on the manifold, but a plug in the pipe is just as good.

ok nice one cheers brian ill sort that and get her started. fingers crossed. thanks mate.