E30 Zone

Hi guys this is so annoying me now!!!!

the simple thing is my central locking is not working!!

Now when I turn the key to lock I can hear a tick noise which is coming from the central locking control box! however when i unlock it doesnt make a ticking noise!

Now the front two solonoids are nackered! and I havent got anymore to test with however the fuel solonoid works!! however is dead when I lock or unlock!

I have a current in the door solonoid however when I lock the current goes and when I unlock I dont hear the clicking noise and the current stays! Whereas the wires for the fuel solonoid dont give no current even if I lock or unlock!

I have opened up the central locking box however I cant find anything wrong with it can you???

The second this is I havent got a relay in the relay socket will that have something to do with not working??? If so why have I got a current in the wires for the solonoid for the door??

Also find that my electric window lights are always on and I cant seem to figure out for the life of my why they always on???

Pleasef find the image below of the control box however I cant seem to loa it on here so I can only try






[/img]

Do you have a spare ECU to try ??

If your electric windows are always live, I'd hazard a guess that the door pin switch on one side is shorted, meaning the car always thinks that one door is open. This might also be causing issues with the central locking.

Also, do a search for the black/red wire solution - that solves a myriad central locking issues.

The centre console light turns on and off as you open the door so I can only assume that is fine!

I have taken off the central locking control box thats why I have taken pics of it as I think mine may be fine?? However am unsure!

Sorry no I dont have a spare ecu to try!

This is really begining to tick me off! I must admit however the only option I think have to get another central locking control box and get the relay as im missing and see if that works!

sorry I know the images are not great I will re-upload them tmr

I've looked at the pics directly on your imageshack page, and the locking ECU appears fine, apart from it appears to have been overloaded, and the thermal fuse (top left, beside relay), is only just hanging on. Needs resoldering, but do NOT add any more solder; it's special low melting point stuff.
The only thing that normally goes wrong with these ECU's is that the thermal fuse trips as aresult of overloading, or the electronics objects to being submersed in water.
Red/black wire mod is the first thing you should do.
Dome light operating correctly does not mean the door pin switches are working properly, although this is nothing to do with your locking problems.

Right ive managed to connect the two metal pins together however i still get the one ticking noise as I turn the key to lock the door but not to unlock and the patrol one dont do anything??

I havent got a relay in there its just empty do you think that may have something to do with it???

I will get the doors now and see if there is any problem there

with regards the the electric window lights I will take out the wires from the pins on the door and see if that makes a difference if they do obviously they will need replacing if not they ill be pulling me hair out even more!!!!

Have you done the 'red/black wire' modification?
If the relay socket you are referring to is the one that is hanging free on wires near the locking ECU, it is NOTHING to do with the locks. It is for an optional interior light delay module.

Right I opened up the central locking module again and found it had split so re-soldered it and it started to work however it only locks and doesnt unlock! i believe the the red-black wire has previously been completed ive taken some pics so you can see

Sorry I forgot to mention Ive also tried to lock and unlock on the passenger and it stil only locks on the central locking! I have taken a pic under to driver door and I can see a wire dont know if this may have something to do with it. As you can see one wire is connected and another is loose?





Whilst looking in the drivers door I came across this I dont know what its for but its not connected to anything and it does go into the loom??

Is your car a Cab?

yes

That plug isn't used in my car either, something to do with the origional car alarm i think.

cool any idea why it locks but doesnt unlock?? its driving me absolute nuts!!!

The wires on the inside of the door handle look like a switch that is part of the interior light delay system, and is only normally fitted to cars that have the module fitted in your empty socket. It also looks like the red/black 12 volts supply wire to this socket has been cut away.
At the very least, we can safely say that things in this area have been 'got at' !!

Find yourself a 12 volt bulb of at least 21W (indicator or brake light bulb) or even a 55W headlamp bulb, pull out the lock ECU from its socket, and connect the bulb across the red/black and brown wires. The bulb should light at full brightness with no flickering. If it passes this test, we can assume that the red/black wire mod. is already done, or doesn't immediately require doing.

Plug the locking ECU in without its cover. Operate the two relays in turn by momentarily pushing their rockers in.
One should set the locks, and the other unlock them.

Good news I have it working I was in the boot and disconnected the solonoid to the boot lock and now it appears to be fully working

i believe it didnt work as the boot lock is very very stiff and as it couldnt move it didnt work!

Now what i have left is the electric window lights do you think they are out as one of the lights are out?? Or is definatly something to do the with button for the door light?

Right guys afters messing around with the electric window switches i can see when you press the button to stop using the front windows the lights on the switches turn off and when you press them again they turn back on

ive had a look at the passenger side of the door switches makes no difference apart from the fact that i have 3 wires joint together and when they are earthed the interior light turns on mnakes no difference to the window lights i have split them and it dont make a difference

i will have a look at the drivers side now and keep you posted but i have a feeling that will be also fine!

Pull out fuse 28 in the fusebox, to check that the widow light power is coming from where it should. The lights should go out, and the windows should no longer work with the doors open UNLESS the ignition is turned on.
In the front LH corner of the glovebox area there is a blue relay. If the lights go out with fuse 28 removed, check that this relay clicks when you replace fuse 28 and the lights come back on.
Both door switches should have a single wire connected to each of two terminals on them. The ones for the windows should be brown/blue, and the ones for the light should be brown/purple, unless you have the interior light delay module, when the driver's side only should be brown/yellow.

Hi I pulled out fuse 28 and it did nothing the lights stayed on

However I went down and pulled out the fuses until the window light came off...

It turns out to be fuse 17 which has got a 30amp fuse! When I pull it out I cant use the windows at all however if the door is open the interior light comes on and the window light does too I can also use the windows to go up and down. However if i turn the ignition on it makes no difference the doors have to be open for the windows to work or not work as they only work with the doors being opened??

I hope this helps I'll check what colour the wires are the door switches

Fuse 17 should only be live with the ignition on!!
Does your heater fan and/or electric mirrors work with the ignition off?
Pull out relay K5 in the fusebox. Does this put the lights out? Does the relay 'click' when you pull it out or push it in, with the ignition off?

Hi Right ive had a look at the wires connected to the door light switch in the door the passenger side has 3 wires as I said earlier 2x brown and blue and one purple and blue the drivers side has both brown and b lue wires

When I take fuse 17 out the lights go off (doors closed) and ignition off if i turn the ignition on it dont make a difference

The exact same thing happens when I take the relay out however I can never hear the relays when you pull them in or out to be honest im quite deff light that...

Are you saying that the lights stay out with the doors closed and ignition on with the relay removed, but the fuse replaced?
What about the heater fan and door mirrors?

sorry to hi jack this thred but i to have no cntr locking the red and black wire going through the door the pin was broken so i added a bit and cut and connected this to gether still nowt cntr locking ecu is ok . whats this red and blck wire conversion ? cant find it can some one give me a link and i will try this . dont work on alarm either . only works if i press the copper thing in for lock and unlock ect

No sorry I mean to say this applies to both with ignition on and off.... and with the relay or the fuse out..... the electric window lights stay off and when I open the door the interior light comes on and so do the electric window lights and they work but when i close the door the lights go off and they not usable

When the ignition is off the heaters dont work and neither do the electic wing mirrors

For some reason, relay K5 is still 'on' when it should be 'off'!
Try swapping over relays K5 and K7, then try all the above again.

Its alright gazsman I was also looking for ages but these are the two links i found being the best

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... g_problems

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:05 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
beamer-boi wrote:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?p=940611 this any help?
Text in the first post looks familiar! Any copyright experts on here?

Right I went back outside and swapped k7 with k5 i did head a ticking noise im sure but this time when k7 into k5 the lights turned off and when i put the ignition on the lights came on or with ignition off and when i open the door for the interior light to come on they came on!

when i put k5 into k7 the heaters turned on!

whilst having k7 in k5 i took out fuse 17 which was what you originally asked me when i pulled them out the lights turned off this time unless i opened the door if i turn the ignition on it dont make a difference.

If I pull out the blue one under the glovebox it just goes all dead although the interior light work but the electric window switches are dead whether ignition on or off

bimmer_e30 wrote:
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... g_problems

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:05 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
beamer-boi wrote:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?p=940611 this any help?
Text in the first post looks familiar! Any copyright experts on here?

The first article is full of inaccuracies and is best avoided.
The thermal trip in the ECU is not a "fault" when it blows - it's doing its job!

Some of the text in that second link does appear a little familiar!!!

K5 and K7 should be identical, so changing them over should have no effect.
K5 is either faulty or is of the wrong type. If it looks like K7, then open it up and see if you can see the problem.

Right Ive only opened up the faulty to one am i correct in saying the wire at the top where soldered together???

Yes forgot to say both K5 and K7 are the say relay and they are yellow in colour

No, the wires that appear to have broken were never joined together. These are the connections that go to 85 and 86.
In the second pic. you can see the relay switching contacts. The pin visible is pin 87, and most of the rest of the metalwork, including the thick braid is connected to 30.
TBH, that relay appears to be in full working order. The problem was that the two little round silver contacts (one on the L shaped piece attached to 87, and the other on the blade attached to the braid) were making contact with one another somehow. There now appears to be a gap between them, so it looks like the problem may have "gone away"

[img][img]http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/929/dscf1415.jpg[/img][/img]

Right I think ive fixed it anyway Ive gone and put it in the car and it does what it does when I put k7 into k5 so now when i open the doors the lights turn on and when i turn on the ignition? so what do i now?

That's exactly what it should do. Windows should work with either the doors open or with the ignition on. With the doors closed, and the ignition off, they should not work.

should they not turn on with the headlights??