E30 Zone

Just had my E30 325i SE 1990 (2-door) serviced and in the Additional Information section the mechanic has noted the following:

Instrument Cluster Illumination Burnt

I have a spare cluster, is this just a straight swap, the lights on the speedo are out but everthing else works, the bulbs were replaced but the cluster illumination is burnt out apparently.

Brake Pipes Excessively Corroded

I knew about this, is it a big fix, I know its a pain to do but I better get it done.

Excessive Engine Oil Leaks (Sump & Rocker cover gaskets)

Is this just gasket replacement and if so which ones?

OSF Brake Flexi Hose Mounting Bracket Excessively Corroded

Have had this before and it just needs welded back on

Fuel Tank In Poor Condition

Its cool, I have a spare, explains why I smell petrol

Fuel Filler Pipe Badly Corroded

Which bit is this, I don't have a spare

Number Plate Lamp Units Corroded

One rear lamp is out and I'm guessing can't be replaced because the unit is mullered, can I get a new one?

Wiper Motor Faulty

Have had this before, think I just need a new one, part number would be greatly appreciated

Didn't think there was much wrong with it, flew through its MOT in June but I was warned about the brake pipes. I'd like to gather all of the various parts to cut the cost a little so and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

That's quite a list!
Instrument cluster should be a straight swap,you need a phillips head screwdriver,may need to remove the steering wheel.
Oil leak,well you have told us which gaskets you need...sump will be fun,doable with the engine in,but messy and time consuming.
Fuel tank is another time consuming job,if all the mounting bolts come out it's half a day,last one I did one bolt was VERY reluctant.
Fuel filler pipe is expensive new,it's the one from the filler flap down to the tank,not too bad a job,do with the tank swap.
Numberplate lights should be available both new and s/h,same with the wiper motor.

Instrument cluster: Straight swap, apart from the fuel gauge is different between cars with the two sizes of fuel tank. Tighten the two small brass nuts on the back before you fit it, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to open it up to check the condition of the SI board batteries and the soldering of the large 220 ohm resistor.
I doubt your mechanic is right, actually. "Cluster illumination burnt out" seems very unlikely!

Sump gasket is fun, as the engine needs to be raised.

Brake lines: Presumably at the rear. Approaching impossible with the fuel tank in place, but much easier with it out, so do both jobs together. Replace all the hard lines with cupro-nickel pipe, all the flexibles and the spring clips holding the flexibles - just cut all the old stuff off.

Wiper motor: Depends what's wrong with it of course, but most problems are cured by a gearbox clean out and re lube.