E30 Zone

Fitted a Viper chip a while ago to my 318iS, had her on the rollers and with the chip and K&N she is now putting out 155BHP

I drive fast but try not to really rev it to much, recently had a race with a 325 Sport just to see the difference and when i really gun the car the clutch slips badly. It drives perfect normally with no slip at all.

is the extra power requireing a stronger pressure plate or is the clutch just f****ed??

How many miles is on the clutch? could poss be on the way out
Put it in 4th or 5th and floor it, see if it slips then, or try getting the revs up high in a lower gear then shifting to 5th - the revs should drop immediately when you engage the clutch

I should think it's the cluch on the way out. Do you find when you pull off the motor way after a long time in 5th there is a stiffness when going out of 5th gear

Widge wrote:I should think it's the cluch on the way out. Do you find when you pull off the motor way after a long time in 5th there is a stiffness when going out of 5th gear

he says his clutch is slipping when you gun it which suggests a worn pressure plate

stiffness in gear changing after not touching the clutch for a while indicates a hydraulic problem (insufficient pressure due to worn seals/air in system) which isn't the problem he has.

to test it i'd just pull the handbrake on hard put it in 2nd or 3rd and try to pull away with a fair few revs. if you can't stall the engine even with clutch pedal all the way up clutch plate is probably on its way out.

Hold your horses Toby (and there are loads of them I know) stiff changes are not nesicarily (sp?) hydraulic. My old golf did it and that was a cable clutch. It's just another sign that the pressure plate has lost some of it's springy ness and is on the way out.




Or it could be hydraulic, I was just trying to get more info.

No stiffness coming out of 5th at all.

I'll try those things and return.........

thanks

Widge wrote:Hold your horses Toby (and there are loads of them I know) stiff changes are not nesicarily (sp?) hydraulic. My old golf did it and that was a cable clutch. It's just another sign that the pressure plate has lost some of it's springy ness and is on the way out.




Or it could be hydraulic, I was just trying to get more info.

hmm don't really know, i think the golf clutch self-adjusts somewhere but isn't your golf sympton incorrect cable adjustment resulting from severe friction surface wear, making the clutch not disengage totally?

dunno though, the only think i know for certian about golf cable clutches is that at some point the damn cable WILL break and you have to drive home clutchless!

Grrr I dunno!!

I can spin the wheels,i can get the back end going, can accelerate VERY sharply at certain times but sometimes she will slip....

even slips some times whilst overtaking..

Whats going on!!!

Now doing me head in:)

Slave cylinder sticking or the clutch fluid not flowing back when the clutch is disengaged?

That would result in partial pressure on the plate, bit like riding the clutch. Only a thought..

Interested to see the outcome of this, I have an IS and have exactly the same problem. I had my clutch done about 4 years ago so its not that old. Since having some work done early this year it slips every now and again.

I have tried the majority of tests suggested but always seems to be as it should.

Do you also get another imtermitant(?) problem when your sat at traffic lights and it wont go in to 1st on the 1st attempt. I sometimes have to lift the clutch and try again.

Ive put a K & N (induction kit rather than panel) on mine but am not convinced it has upped the power did you ever have yours rolling roaded before and after the filter?

Cheers Bjorn

Hmm good points, I have changed the master cylinder but never looked at slave....

Anyway to test?

Bjorn wrote:
Do you also get another imtermitant(?) problem when your sat at traffic lights and it wont go in to 1st on the 1st attempt. I sometimes have to lift the clutch and try again.

Ive put a K & N (induction kit rather than panel) on mine but am not convinced it has upped the power did you ever have yours rolling roaded before and after the filter?

Cheers Bjorn

My clutch did that and it was the Clutch Master Cylinder on its way out.. replaced that and been great untill thsi problem. i would say that is definately your problem especially with the first gear issue. Does it sometimes try to "drive on" even with clutch depressed at lights?

Well I am no expert by any means but from what i have heard I wouldn't put an induction kit anywhere near a car, we tested a car recently on the Dyno and it LOST 15BHP with an induction kit, put ordinary filter box back on and it made the 15BHP back.

Power loss with induction kits is common, the airbox is quite well designed and has a cold air feed, unless you use something with a vent running to the front of the car the cone filter will draw warm (less dense) air from the engine bay.

Clutch slaves tend to leak after a while, more common for them to fail than the master.

just change everything:

fluid
clutch plate and pressure plate
slave cylinder
master cylinder
release bearing
spigot bearing

this wil solve ure prob i can guarantee u 100%
all the above is less than Ԛ£200 in parts so not too bad really

Karan

Thanks for that, havnt noticed the car run forward much but if it starts ill know whats up. Dunno if I can fork up the full Ԛ£200 for everything ill probably just have a go at replacing the 2x cylinders & fluid.

I didnt realise you could drop power with an induction kit I though it would be an easy way to add a few BHP but cant say either way if the car goes any different it just sounds a bit better, ill have to dig out the old air box and get a replacement panel.

Cheers Bjorn

Just had a look around a couple of other forums and peoples are saying intermittant clutch slip is due to leaking slave, so I would start there 1st.