E30 Zone

Hi, just wondering if there is anyone who could diagnose a non-starting (no spark) problem for me, with a lap top / Megatune and who is willing to travel to Maidstone in Kent in exchange for beer tokens!

Car is a 1989 E30 M30 turbo with MS 3.57, it had an intermittent cutting out problem, now it's a non-starter.

I've tried swapping ignition coil, crank sensor, engine loom, DME relays, fuel pump, throttle position sensor, distributor cap and rotor arm, king lead and earths.

Thanks,

Martin.

give this man a ring and explain it to him over the phone he should be able to help sort the problem!

Dave Patrick (aka muppet)
Auto Electrics
25 School Lane Iwade, Sittingbourne, Kent ME9 8RS

01795470704

be warned he can be a complete arse tho!!! but knows his stuff!

Thanks dude, I might give him a call.

Do you know if he knows Megasquirt?

he knows most things or befor him try these

really nice blokes and know their things

Connaught Competition Engines, Unit A Wormdale Farm, Newington

Contact Connaught for assistance, advice and Warrior enquiries:
Email: philprice@connaughtengines.co.uk
Tel: +44 1795 843802
Fax: +44 1795 841358
Mobile: +44 7831 342874

and they deal with all different systems!

Ok, thanks for that!

no worries let me know how u get on

i thought you sent your m/s to Ant? did it diagnose any probs?

Yeah, Ant gave it a clean bill of health, but I'm hoping somebody can help me narrow down where to look next, I'm totally out of ideas now, my very limited skill with diagnosing electric faults doesn't help.

In Megatune, assuming you have that connected it will tell you if it thinks you are cranking when turning the starter. That would be a good start. If you have not got a laptop or anything see if any of the leds flash when cranking and / or try a meter on the coil neg to see if it is going high and low on cranking.

Isn't Ant down your way ?

Thanks for that.

I have a laptop but not managed to get Megatune on to it, and if I did I probably wouldn't have a clue what to do with it anyway, I'm rubbish with computery stuff!

Ant is very busy at the moment, and I'd still need to pay £60 or so (it was last time) to get the car trailered to him before he even switches his laptop on!

I'll try those things tomorrow.

Cheers,

Martin.

dude! i'd pay the money, take it to Ants and get it sorted asap

Easier said than done mate, I'm flat broke for a start!

When you took the MS ECU apart, did you check the driver transistors were properly insulated from the metal base?

When building some of these units, I noticed that they could quite easily short out unless the holes they bolt into were countersunk and all traces of swarf removed prior to carefully fitting them with the insulating spacers then using a multimeter to check for continuity to ensure that they were fully isolated.

You need to ensure that there is infinite resistance (or no continuity buzz) between the driver transistor metal tags and the base.

Hi mate.

Yeah, I did check that, the insulation was all good and no continuity through there, that is definately ok.

Thanks anyway,

Martin.

Have you checked that a reliable 12V supply is getting to the ECU? Do any of the LEDs light?

I'm just popping out, I'll check the LEDs in a bit.

Speedtouch wrote:Have you checked that a reliable 12V supply is getting to the ECU? Do any of the LEDs light?

Well it's got good power supply going to the MS.

I couldn't see any LEDs do anything at all...


I've posted the question already, but could a faulty OBC control unit cause this?
When I disconnected one of the plugs from it the fuel pump wouldn't run....
Does it also have something to do with the ignition system, through it's immobiliser or something?

OBC unit has been removed (a long time ago) but control unit still there.

Doubtful, but you could always check for a voltage across the coil low tension terminals to be sure. (Assuming you're running a normal coil and not a wasted spark coilpack, that is...)