E30 Zone

i'VE GOT A 1990 325 CAB WHICH KEEPS CUTTING OUT. WHEN DRIVING IT STARTS TO JERK LIKE ITS MISSING AND THEN CUTS OUT, AND THERE IS A GARGLING LIKE SOUND FROM THE EXHAUST. I HAD IT CHECKED AND WAS TOLD THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE COIL. SO HE PUT A WIRE FROM THE +VE TERMINAL ON THE COIL TO THE BATTERY, AS A TEMPORARY FIX AND THE CAR RAN BEAUTIFULLY. I REPLACED THE COIL AND AM STILL GETTING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH IT CUTTING OUT. I HAD THE AA CHECK IT OUT AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THERE IS NO SPARK FROM THE COIL.
CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

GUSS

SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS JUST REALISED

try the crank sensor next, no idea how to test it but someone else will

Also check engine-to-body earth straps.

is the crank sensor the one thats near to the water pump???

what i dont understand is that its running sweet with the wire connected to the coil from the battery but soon as you take it off it starts playing up again

Yes, a cylindrical device on a bracket pointing at the toothed pulley wheel. Could be an ECU fault - 0 261 200 380 type on the later 325i sometimes blow the diodes in their idle control circuit.

what does that mean as im not very mechanically minded and very low on funds

You may need to try another ECU (the Motronic box that lives under the dashboard - remove the trim panel below the steering column and look up to see it.)

If it's a 380, try changing to the earlier and more reliable 173 - it's a direct swap.

has anyone got a spare one of these i can try, as have been trying the breakers all weekend as originally thought it was the lead from the coil to the dizzy cap but no one up here has any

you able to get another ECU to swap it and check incase it's that??

where abouts are you guss

think i have an ecu
where are you tho?

im based in oxford but do not have a spare ecu

can anyone help!!!

Just read through this and before you go changing ecu`s and crank sensors i think you better have a look at your wiring. From what you said the AA man has done is simply supply a decent live to the coil. I would suggest you trace the Original Live going to +VE terminal back along its loom and look for any rubbing or dodgy connections all the way. Check any pins/plugs they go through. It may possibly run back to a relay also. You can rig up a basic test lamp to that lead whilst moving the wires to see if your interupting the 12v supply. Ignition needs to be on for this remember. Good luck!

My 323i was doing the same. I cleaned any relays I could find. Replaced the earth strap(it is next to the battery) and put some insulation wire around any wire that looked a bit dodgy. I also replaced the lead off the coil to the distributer and made sure it was pushed in tight. The problems has now stopped. You might try the same and avoid a new ecu.

thanks guys, could i use any lead from the coil to the distributor or does it have to be a bmw one??

guss300 wrote:thanks guys, could i use any lead from the coil to the distributor or does it have to be a bmw one??

The lead from the coil to the distributor is NOT your problem, it is the wire to the positive terminal of your coil that you should be focused on.

Someone on here (Mr Mooore?) will know the circuit back to your ignition switch. You need to trace this problem backwards. All your AA guy has done is cut out all of the circuit steps by just wiring a solid 12 volts to the coil, so this has proved that the problem is confined to this circuit!

thanks jermyns do you or anyone have a contact no. for Mr. Moore??

Firstly, your Motronic 325i doesn't have the conventional type distributor that an L-Jetronic 323i has, so there is no wire as such to replace between the two! (Unless that is, it is the king lead from the centre of the distributor cap to the centre of the ignition coil that is faulty).

Try PMing Brianmoooore. Sounds as though you need to investigate the switching of the +12V to the coil (duff ignition switch maybe?)

does anyone have a contact no. for brian moore??

If the wire from battery + to coil + provides a complete cure, there is nothing wrong with the coil, the ECU, the crank position sensor, or the engine in general.
In fact, it's quite possible the problem isn't anything to do with anything BMW fitted on the car at all!
If your OP is correct, then you have a problem with the ignition switched supply to the engine.
There are no fuses or relays (standard car) in this supply wire, although there is quite possibly an immobiliser or two connected, and this is the most likely suspect, followed by the ignition switch, and the plug/socket for the ignition switch halfway down the steering column.
The relevant wire is plain green.
I made a fairly lengthy post on the route of this green wire a short while ago, so either use the search function, or someone may point you towards it.

many thanks brian will give this a go. i couldnt find your post on this green wire so if anyone knows where it is please let me know

guss

Hi could anyone possibly point me in the right direction for brians post on the green wire as i still cant find it

cheers

guss

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... green+wire

Try this one

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=

I think thats the thread brian is relating to... I know because its my own

you and i seem to have the same problem guss300, be thankful your car even starts!!

thanks beemerbird