E30 Zone

If anybody out there gets pissed off with leaving their lights on I have drawn a basic diagram of how to wire a buzzer and a diode so that you no longer have to suffer.
The basic principle: 12volts from the light goes through the buzzer and diode, 12v will be present at the door switch until the door is opened and then the 12v supply is grounded to earth creating a path through the buzzer. The diode stops unwanted volts traveling the wrong way onto the lighting circuit.
The 12v can be taken from the rear of the lights switch and the other end onto the back of the door switch.
Hope this helps!

Nice one!

Ta very much

no probs m8

you can buy a ready made one from some accessory shops, costs
about 6 or 7 quid,but don't wire it in the same circuit if you also
fit a courtesy light delay (also available from accessory shop!)
cos it backfeeds when you open the door and the damn little buzzer
won't shut up.Suggest if you want to do this to fit another courtesy
switch

My car has delayed *edited* courtesy lights and this little circuit does'nt or is not affected in anyway. Also the parts are less than Ԛ£2

Connect it to the side of the door switches for the electric windows/roof, or if you haven't got either of those, get a twin door pillar switch from a car that has.

Yep that will work.

cheers Brian

courtesy lights are only affected if you also wire in a courtesy light
delay (the light stays on for about 10 seconds after closing the door
(handy in winter).

zip88 wrote:if you also
fit a courtesy light delay (also available from accessory shop!)

Your E30 is already wired for an interior light delay.
The socket is down with the locking ECU, and obnly needs the module plugging in and a wire or two moved.
The delay module can be found in the scrappys in some 5 and 7 series beemers of similar vintage to E30s.

sorry I did infact mean to say I have DELAY courtesy lights in mine. lol

*I have edited my previous post*

Thanks Brian,

already have a delay fitted that I had previously bought.
wasn't aware that the car had already got pre wiring!
but sounds like the dual switch is the answer,
must get that sorted before the dark nights!!

Pete

Your challenge now is to get the light to come on when you unlock the door. ;)

Mine does and when I turn the alarm off.

ok how do you work that one ,do you need an alarm?

Yep the having an alarm bit helps. lol

sorry I thought that this might have been another pre wired
bit I wasn't aware of,will get round to fitting an alarm some time
as I like the convenience of remote central locking

zip88 wrote: bit I wasn't aware of,will get round to fitting an alarm some time
as I like the convenience of remote central locking

Most of the connections for this are accessable by removing the panels above and to the left of the glovebox. ie connections to indicators, locking and unlocking, power feed,connectors to loop into ignition feed, connector to loop into starter socket and door switches.
BMW use asystem where plug pins are removed from sockets, and replaced by shott leads with wires teed in, but it is fairly simple to splice directly to the appropriate wires.

I did this with the OBC gong.

Does your buzzer sound when the engine is still running?
Does it work with only the drivers door?

I cant stop my chime ringing with the engine running.

It will buzz when the door is open and the engine running if the lights are on.
It only works on the drivers door as all door switches are independant of each other.
Not really needed on any door other than drivers.