Page 1 of 1
Rust..
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 1:28 am
by Jackle
I got a little rust problem..
When I took it for it's MOT in August I could feel a small (50p) size hole inside the wheel arch. Passed MOT no problem. I had a little time yesterday to look at it properly, and large bits just crumbled away
The front mounting for the bottle disintegrated as well, so I've had to bodge this for now to hold the bottle in place and remount the plastic cover.
Is it possible to repair this? And what would be the best way?
Welding seems a bit dubious with the close proximity of the fuel filler pipe

Re: Rust..
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 1:58 am
by jbh
welding is your only option id remove the filler pipe and fabricate a piece to go in or if you can cut the section out a scrap car
Re: Rust..
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 2:00 am
by Cloud
Nice afternoon with a cup of tea and a mig welder.
Re: Rust..
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:31 am
by skipunda
Well, dont you think it wise to remove the petrol tank if welding anywhere near it?
just my 2p
Re: Rust..
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 9:40 am
by Jackle
I thought that was going to be the only option. I was thinking of removing the filler pipe and capping off the tank somehow. Or is still going to be too close for safety?
Re: Rust..
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 1:51 pm
by skipunda
well I'm not too hot at welding (no pun intended) so I would take it out as a matter of principle - I'm likely to need as much space and safety as possible. If you take it out you could also check out your sills at the same time, should you be unlucky enough to have problem there also

Re: Rust..
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:38 am
by Jackle
Well having never welded in my life before, it's probably going to be a job for my brother. He definately won't do it with the tank and filler pipe in place!
As an alternative, would it be acceptable to rivet a piece in place? Just a thought, this might not even be possible..
Re: Rust..
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:45 am
by Chase007
You need to weld a piece back in or it will fail on mot

Re: Rust..
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:18 am
by jbh
plus doing it with rivets it wouldn't cure the problem it would only hide it. also if you remove the tank take use of the situation and renew the front to rear brake lines as at least that way you know there done and you wont fail on it in the near future as you'd need to remove the tank again if you did
Re: Rust..
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:32 am
by Jackle
Guess I'd better book some time with my welder then...
Brake lines have already been done - didn't need to drop the tank, replaced front-to-rear and all rear lines with braided lines.
Re: Rust..
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:47 am
by zimmer-320i
ok just a thought that came to mind, using a olf inner tube cut a 7 inch lenght off and pull it over the hole and then zip tye the open end shut and the bit on the pipe, also if it were me id hve a soking wet tea towl or jumper etc placed over that,or placed as a sheild to the whole tank? i think thats the safest "easiest" option, but if you set alight ya self dont be blamming me lol

seriosly tho that will work and is what id do, and i weald!
Re: Rust..
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:55 am
by Jackle
Sounds like a good bit of advice, thanks!
Re: Rust..
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 7:41 pm
by zimmer-320i
no problem mate

Re: Rust..
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:43 pm
by Chase007
Yeah sounds a good bit of advice i will be keeping it in the memory bank for sure!
