E30 Zone

does anyone have the correct valve clearance sizes required on a m20 b2.5 ?

thanks m8 i looked all over for that

lol

.25mm on the inlet and exhaust from COLD!

I set at .25mm when hot and it sounds like a diesel !! will re-do them when cold in the morning

leave it for at least 8 hrs to fully cool down

e30topless wrote:I set at .25mm when hot and it sounds like a diesel !! will re-do them when cold in the morning

You can adjust them hot but if you do the correct figure is .30mm. Most guys here do their's cold. Cold is .25mm. And yes, do them as cold as cold can be. Really let the car sit. Doing them cold means you're dealing with a settled state; hot adjustment has to cope with metal/valve expansion and other variables. You don't want variables.

i did them cold at .25mm it still rattles double checked them after it cooled down again gaps are fine still at .25 maybe time for a new cam and followers?

how bad is it rattling though??

did you ever own a ford escort with a cvh engine ? it sounds like that
it's not too bad i suppose but I like them to be quiet

im the same i hate rattles a knocks. my m50 should be nice a quiet if i keep it lol

well let me know if it's up for grabs

you checked your oil spray bar to see whetehr its blocked? it could not be getting pressure and hence no oil and all that noise!

The Haynes manual says you're supposed to adjust the clearances in firing order which I think is 1-5-3-6-2-4 (thats from memory though), and that you should rotate the crank 120 degrees between doing each cylinder. Not sure if this makes a difference, but if you've done them all without moving the crank it might be worth a try.

Also, I've read that you can set them to 9 thou (0.009 inches) instead of 10 thou (0.010 inches) which works out at 0.23mm if you want them to be quiet. Problem is you probably don't have a 0.23 feeler as they usually go up in 0.05mm. You could make them a really tight 0.25 so you can barely get the feeler out again maybe?

Also, while on this subject, what's the best way to rotate the crank without using the starter, so you can turn it a specified amount?

FC_Touring wrote:The Haynes manual says you're supposed to adjust the clearances in firing order which I think is 1-5-3-6-2-4 (thats from memory though), and that you should rotate the crank 120 degrees between doing each cylinder. Not sure if this makes a difference, but if you've done them all without moving the crank it might be worth a try.

Also, I've read that you can set them to 9 thou (0.009 inches) instead of 10 thou (0.010 inches) which works out at 0.23mm if you want them to be quiet. Problem is you probably don't have a 0.23 feeler as they usually go up in 0.05mm. You could make them a really tight 0.25 so you can barely get the feeler out again maybe?

Also, while on this subject, what's the best way to rotate the crank without using the starter, so you can turn it a specified amount?

The right socket and ratchet would do, or stick it in gear and push it, long road needed and how you guess how much its turned I don't know.

oil spray bar is working fine siddiqi one of the first things i checked messy running the engine without rocker cover !!!
I removed the radiator and used a 23mm socket on the front pulley to turn the cam to the right position for each follower but didn't adjust in firing order
is it advisable to adjust them closer than .25mm ? as it sounds bloody awful !! I
off topic march but what wheels are they in your sig ?