E30 Zone

The damper rod just spins as i am tightening the nut

Any idea's??

Thanks

There should be a hex recces in the top of the damper rod, and use a alan key in it and a swan neck spanne or a deep socket to tighten up the nut

Jason

Sorry i forgot to mention i've fitted top adjustable dampers so the usual allen key hole has been replaced with two flat sides for an open ended spanner. The swan neck spanner i have and all available i've seen are too thick to fit inside the top mount recess.



Help!

I've just removed the legs on my 325 breaker and I have a question which you might be able to answer seeing as you've just had yours off: The bearing plate at the top (with the 3 studs in) turns nice and smoothly, but if you try and rock it (like you're checking for bearing wear) there is quite a bit of movement. When the weight's on it it's nice and smooth, so I wondered if there was any allowable freeplay? or if you noticed how yours were when you took them off?

In answer to your question, could you hold the rod near the top with a pair of grips with thick rubber between the rod and the jaws? If you try this, be careful not to damage the rod, and do it far up enough that it's not a portion which enters the damper during driving.

Impact wrench. Cheap electric (for wheel nuts) or proper air job. Done in seconds

If your trying to tighten the nut with them off the car don't bother.
Get them fitted and the car back on the deck and then tighten them.

When u were wobbling to test for bearing wear was the top mount securely fastened to the damper? The top mounts should have no wobble/free play and be nice and smooth. Sounds like you need a new top mount.

Am in the process of making a tool out of a long reach socket. I 've nearly chopped the ratchet drive side off the socket (its a tough bugger, gone through 8 hacksaw blades so far!) Will then file two sides so i can get an adj spanner on it. With the hole in the top i can get some mole grips or a spanner if poss on the top of the damper.

Will post pics if this works

Thanks for the tips guys but i've tried using my air ratchet whilst they were back on the car. No joy. The ny-lok nuts are the problem

scot wrote:Thanks for the tips guys but i've tried using my air ratchet whilst they were back on the car. No joy. The ny-lok nuts are the problem

Do as was suggested earlier then. Get some mole grips high up the shaft.

Have also tried that too. With an inner tube to protect the damper rod.

It still spun even with my 18 stone mate squeezing as hard as his fat hands could!

If my tool fails i'll just use the molegrips without any protection!!

scot wrote: If my tool fails i'll just use the molegrips without any protection!!

Ouch

lol that would be painful!

I used a pair of large mole grips on a socket, and the allen key down the centre of the socket.
Worked a treat

Jackle wrote:I used a pair of large mole grips on a socket, and the allen key down the centre of the socket.
Worked a treat

....He's got no allen key socket on his aftermarket dampers.....

for standard ones, a large spark plug socket fits the nut and a 1/4" drive with the correct bit can be poked down through the centre to hold the shaft. the spark plug socket had flats for a spanner on it oh, make sure you use your halfords professional 1/4" tools, as they have a lifetime warranty i broke 3 extensions getting one off a while back!

Thanks but as mentioned i have aftermarket dampers

Went with the molegrips at the top of the damper rod to clamp the bugger. My tool did work just the damper rod started to round off!

Car handles sweet now Thanks for all the input

Always loosen/tighten these top nuts with the car on the ground and the full weight on. Trying to get them off with the strut off the car is a nightmare. You can use Molegrips but you need to clamp the damper rod right at the top. Do it on a part of the shaft where it goes into the damper means your damper will very quickly blow the oil and gas out thanks to Molegrip marks tearing the seals to bits.

Yes i realised molegrips would possibly damage the seals thats why i left it as a last resort...

As i stated earlier in the thread i tried using an air ratchet whilst the cars weight was on the damper but no joy. the nylok nuts were extemely tight which was causing the problem.

But as mentioned its a problem no more!

Time to drive

eeekk, whatever you do dont use a air gun/impact drive.......iv seen far to many when people have done this and it just rips the threads to pieces!

Put a really thick cloth around the damper rod and clamp to the very top of it, at least this way if you damage it that part isnt going to actually enter the damper.....

As long as you do it correctly the rod will be fine with no damage....

Sorry to scare you! I've got a torque adjustable impact driver so no need to worry

Yep, it was clamped at the top like u said but had lost my patience by that point so it was metal on metal! but no damage done as far as i can see.

When I did mine I found an old cheap socket, and ground two flats on it.
Then I used the socket with a C spanner on the flats, and the allen key went down the middle.

Thats exactly what i did but as mine doesnt have the rather useful allen key holes i couldnt get a grip on the top of the damper. I tried all types of c spanner and molegrips but in the end it just started to round off

Will post a pic of the offending article so everyone can appreciate the pain i went through!

I has this nighmare when doing the front struts on the wife's MK2 golf, the old man eventually came to the rescue with his 24v snap-on impact gun. Tried all sorts of combinations of sockets, mole grips and other shizzle without a result.