cheers Brian, I'll forget about a new sensor then (Haynes had steered me to demand a far lower figure, but wrong, not for the first time)
I've looked at the diagrams in the !Haynes! (12.14 and 12.15), and can see the starter (20) and the blue temp (24?), but then I'm not sure where the wires will actually be.
[...The BR wire from the bluetemp goes into some sort of symbol, branching into two, one of which ends up in the throttle switch, one in the ECU (#5); the BR/R wire goes to ECU (#13).
The starter wire that I think I want (coming out of 50, BK/Y) goes into the 'engine plug', diagnosis connection, and ECU (#4)....]
The ECU wires are the ones I'm after I guess, but Haynes shows a 35 pin ECU - mine will be bigger won't it (1990 320i)?
(and where's the smiley for 'brain hurt'...)
non-starter hints? SORTED
Moderator: martauto
sorry just re-re-read your post Brian, ignore the above, being thick.
I get it: the right wires are in the thick bundle passing through the bulkhead near the fuse box, I would just need to split the bundle, and splice into the right ones.
Let's hope all the colours are the same as in Haynes!
I get it: the right wires are in the thick bundle passing through the bulkhead near the fuse box, I would just need to split the bundle, and splice into the right ones.
Let's hope all the colours are the same as in Haynes!
-
Speedtouch
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 14071
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Canterbury
Maplin out of 10k resistors?!!!
That's one of the most commonly used values FFS! Kind of sad, as it used to be an ace company (I worked on their magazine for 3 years.) In the spirit of Christmas, I can send you a few 10k's for free if you wish, just PM me your address.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
I think that's right!
I'm not too sure about the starter (term 50) connection - is that going back to the ECU? I'm a little rusty on the older stuff, but I do recall that the cranking signal does go back to the ECU - in which case it should be ok.
I would connect the earth and the cranking signal first, and make sure that the relay is energizing, and also check with your multimeter that you are getting the desired resistance across the other two wires(when cranking). Once you're happy that everything is ok, you can go ahead and connect across the temp sensor.
Fingers crossed!
I'm not too sure about the starter (term 50) connection - is that going back to the ECU? I'm a little rusty on the older stuff, but I do recall that the cranking signal does go back to the ECU - in which case it should be ok.
I would connect the earth and the cranking signal first, and make sure that the relay is energizing, and also check with your multimeter that you are getting the desired resistance across the other two wires(when cranking). Once you're happy that everything is ok, you can go ahead and connect across the temp sensor.
Fingers crossed!
according to Haynes...
the starter 50 goes to ECU #8 and #4
the bluetemp BR goes to: ECU #5, and to 'throttle switch'
the blutemp BR/R goes to ECU #13
so I was just going to cut one of those ECU wires for the starter, and two for the bluetemp and connect in at the split as in the diagram, binding the three ends of wire together at each join.
it's certainly got all the makings of a festive balls-up!
the starter 50 goes to ECU #8 and #4
the bluetemp BR goes to: ECU #5, and to 'throttle switch'
the blutemp BR/R goes to ECU #13
so I was just going to cut one of those ECU wires for the starter, and two for the bluetemp and connect in at the split as in the diagram, binding the three ends of wire together at each join.
it's certainly got all the makings of a festive balls-up!
if it makes you feel better my 325 starts and runs
just like yours
it had
cam belt timing was out a tooth out
tappit gaps was too close
throttle body not set up right
idle control valve hose perished
main induction hose perished
put these right and the car still will not start properly but runs lots better
just like yours
it had
cam belt timing was out a tooth out
tappit gaps was too close
throttle body not set up right
idle control valve hose perished
main induction hose perished
put these right and the car still will not start properly but runs lots better
hello parky - if yours is cold overfueling maybe you should try this loom thing?
You can check by unplugging your bluetemp sensor and putting a 2k2 or 3k3 resistor into the plug in its place. It's produced a solution for mine - now just a case of putting it into practice!
You can check by unplugging your bluetemp sensor and putting a 2k2 or 3k3 resistor into the plug in its place. It's produced a solution for mine - now just a case of putting it into practice!
With particular thanks to Heyho, who fitted the cold start modification loom for me - problem solved. The car now starts, hot or cold, even with a fairly knackered battery.
For anyone who is having the same problem ie bad cold start, spinning, not firing, flooding, and you've checked all the spark side of things, and your blue temp is a good 'un, this loom is definitely worth a look.
To save you reading back - basically the system overfuels when stone cold, casuing flooding, so you trick it into thinking it is slightly warmer, it fuels less, and hey presto!



