Running Issues Facelift M20B20 AUTO

[Mitchen]

So the last 3-4 years I've been chasing a running issue on my E30. Now it's worth mentioning that this might be one issue or a series of different issues. It all started a few years ago, with a cold engine when I put my foot on the throttle when the rev counter comes down it would struggle to idle momentarily, but not cut out just grumble for a second like it wanted to cut out. Also when I would approach traffic lights and come to a stop with the engine idling, it would sound like the the engine is hunting, but the rev counter wouldn't move.

Anyway after a summer of these symptoms, it got progressively worse and got to the stage where it would cut out when I would take my foot off the throttle and let it idle. I could not drive the car without it cutting out when coming to a stop. This was improved and made driveable by hooking the car up to an emissions machine and adjusting the AFM. I then ended up with just a grumble from the engine when the rev counter would come down to idle... and that's pretty much how it's remained. Sometimes it's better, sometimes it's worse. I do remember towards the end of last summer, it was cutting out when I was maneuvering with the car in reverse. But so far this summer it's been running well, all I've had is a bit of a lumpy idle at junctions/traffic lights.

I've thrown a number of parts at this car over the last few years to rectify this entirely but with no luck.

Smoked tested, no leaks
TPS replaced (new genuine BMW)
Idle control valve replaced (new genuine BMW)
AFM sent away to be refurbished.. no faults found with it.
Fuel pressure regulator replaced (new genuine BMW)
Car is serviced every year, so spark plugs, valve clearances all done at some stage.
ECU replaced with deadstock unused unit. EPROM swapped over.
Rotor and dizzy look fine.
HT leads fine.
All relays and fuses are okay.

My last throw at the dice is perhaps the crank position sensor. This failed on me back in 2011, and at the time I could only get ahold of a chocolate euro car parts equivalent, which has done the job but is maybe on it's way out. Not sure if these just fail or work though. No inbetween.

Other than that my only other thought is perhaps the EH autobox, and something awry there.

This seems to have baffled most BMW speacilists around.. so any help appreciated.

[Speedtouch]

Why was the EPROM swapped over? Also, it's worth checking basics such as engine-to-body earth strap is in good condition.

[Mitchen]

Why was the EPROM swapped over? Also, it's worth checking basics such as engine-to-body earth strap is in good condition.

The Bosch deadstock ECU didnt have one.

I have heard about ICV’s burning out ECU’s. And i replaced the ECU before the ICV, so im a little concerned that the old idle control valve burnt out the new ECU. Or maybe that’s just folklore.

[Speedtouch]

Which new ECU did you fit? AFAIK, it was only the later 0 261 200 380/381 ECUs that suffered from blown diodes in the idle control circuit - the previous 172/173 ECU didn't have that problem.

[Mitchen]

It was this one. Numbers were exactly the same as the one that was originally in my car.

That's interesting though, I always thought it was every one impacted. Off topic, but I wonder if the Eprom may be playing a part in this. It's one of the only constants.

[Speedtouch]

A 172 ECU should be good, particularly being new. You could try one of my 320i Mild/Wild chips in it if you wanted to see if it makes any difference...

[Mitchen]

Sorry the website hasn’t been working or loading for me for a couple of days.

But lo and behold, this car has driven fantastic this season, barring a little bit of hunting occasionally at traffic lights, junctions etc. Then I got in it yesterday morning and for the first time in a year, the issue is back! The car continually cuts out when the revs come down and can barely be driven. I’ve played around with it the past couple of days to see if I can be more specific with the symptoms.

So it’s definitely an idle issue. I can actually drive the car fine until I get to traffic or a junction or something. The idle is also a lot worse in drive and reverse and will mostly cut out, rather than in park mode, but still hunts loudly in park. And judging by the last few years I’m pretty sure it will be almost cured when I get it to a garage with a gas analyser and get the AFM adjusted.. but it will be back again next summer, The AFM adjustment is clearly just a plaster over the issue, rather than it being fixed!

It’s so frustrating as literally everyone, even bonified specialists that restore these cars for a living can’t work out what it is.. where’s Brian Moore when you need him!

[flybynite]

It’s so frustrating as literally everyone, even bonified specialists that restore these cars for a living can’t work out what it is.. where’s Brian Moore when you need him!

Have you taken it it BMR? I'm sure Barry would see you right

[Mitchen]

It’s so frustrating as literally everyone, even bonified specialists that restore these cars for a living can’t work out what it is.. where’s Brian Moore when you need him!

Have you taken it it BMR? I'm sure Barry would see you right

Me and Barry have a tempestuous relationship and knowing Barry it’ll sit in his yard for a couple of months before he’ll get around to it.