Hi Guys
I'm changing the rear shocks on my 325 cab. Maybe I'm missing something but the bloody rod keeps turning as I try and tighten the top lock nut. I have a full dust cover on the rod so I cant fit a clamp to hold it from below. surely someone has had this issue before and overcome it. the only thing i can think of is to ditch the dust cover or cut it short to grip the rod but I don't really want to do this.
Any help ideas advice appreciated.
rear shock replacement top nut is being tricky!
Moderator: martauto
Don't know what shocks you have, and never worked on a cab but the rear shocks on mine (including the new Bilsteins I'm looking at now) have two flats on the very top of the shaft that allow you to get a mole grip or adjustable (or a 6mm open ended spanner if you have one) to lock the shaft.Doobit wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 8:02 pmHi Guys
I'm changing the rear shocks on my 325 cab. Maybe I'm missing something but the bloody rod keeps turning as I try and tighten the top lock nut. I have a full dust cover on the rod so I cant fit a clamp to hold it from below. surely someone has had this issue before and overcome it. the only thing i can think of is to ditch the dust cover or cut it short to grip the rod but I don't really want to do this.
Any help ideas advice appreciated.
HTH
Thanks fly I’ll have a go at that. The problem is the hole the bolt sits in means i cant get a spanner in I can only use a socket. I’ll try and find a smaller spanner. Cheers
E30 325i Cabriolet Alpinweiß chromie
F12 640d
G11 730d
F12 640d
G11 730d
Like I say, not familiar with spannering a Cab but can you fit the top mount to the shock absorber first where you have better access and then fit the both to the car? Just leaves you the two nuts per side to do up.
There is a proper tool for the job but where is the fun in that
If you fancy cowboying the job a rattle-gun will also work