Can anyone give me some advice to try and cure a longstanding problem with my 1990 320 please?
When pulling away from stationary I have to accelerate very carefully in order not to stall. If I just floor it, it will stall. It needs a feather lite touch , to get it off the line. Once its going, it’s fine
I’ve replaced the injectors, new air filter, made sure I have no air leaks or split pipes .
Any help appreciated.
Annoying tendency to almost stall on pulling away
Moderator: martauto
i will be watching this one, as i have a similar problem with a cold engine.
it could be quite a few issues. check you icv is clean.
is the rubber boot to throttle body o.k . not cracked.
fuel pressure , afm faulty , blue temp sensor ,
injectors, compresion , timing c=belt out. but fav would be a vacuum leak some where you can,t see.
it could be quite a few issues. check you icv is clean.
is the rubber boot to throttle body o.k . not cracked.
fuel pressure , afm faulty , blue temp sensor ,
injectors, compresion , timing c=belt out. but fav would be a vacuum leak some where you can,t see.
Arrisbmw yes the rubber boot is perfect (new)
Fuel pressure is checked. Also new air and fuel filters
The blue temp sensor... hmmm I will need to investigate that. I remember Brianmoooore mentioning that back in the day regarding a car he had purchased with a hesitancy problem. How do we get his input?
I’m getting timing checked in near future
Fuel pressure is checked. Also new air and fuel filters
The blue temp sensor... hmmm I will need to investigate that. I remember Brianmoooore mentioning that back in the day regarding a car he had purchased with a hesitancy problem. How do we get his input?
I’m getting timing checked in near future
this is lifted from here wiki section
Testing
While it's relatively simple to test the Blue Temp Sensor, it is also important to test that the information is reaching the ECU. This test needs to be done first, so that you don't disturb any wiring in the engine bay - especially the sensor plug itself.
Testing the actual Sensor is a relative simple affair, requiring a multimeter.
Locate the ECU and remove its loom connection
Set your multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms)
Putt your multimeter electrodes onto pins 24 and 45 of the ECU (for facelift engines. For others, such as the 318iS, check the ECU Pinouts)
From cold, expect a reading in the region of 3500-4000 Ohms. Any more or less than this is not a huge issue
Reconnect, warm up the engine, and retest
From hot, expect a reading in the region of 330 Ohms. If your Blue Temp Sensor has not changed its resistance significantly, then it is at fault and should be replaced.
Once that's done, you can test the Blue Temp Sensor itself.
Locate the Blue Temp Sensor and disconnect its plug.
Repeat the test, this time testing the pins directly.
Confirm that the readings you got at the ECU are the same or similar to what you read at the Blue Temp Sensor.
If the readings differ, then the most likely cause is corrosion of the C191 plug (facelift cars only). Once that is ruled out, the fault must lie with the sensor itself.
Replacing
Testing
While it's relatively simple to test the Blue Temp Sensor, it is also important to test that the information is reaching the ECU. This test needs to be done first, so that you don't disturb any wiring in the engine bay - especially the sensor plug itself.
Testing the actual Sensor is a relative simple affair, requiring a multimeter.
Locate the ECU and remove its loom connection
Set your multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms)
Putt your multimeter electrodes onto pins 24 and 45 of the ECU (for facelift engines. For others, such as the 318iS, check the ECU Pinouts)
From cold, expect a reading in the region of 3500-4000 Ohms. Any more or less than this is not a huge issue
Reconnect, warm up the engine, and retest
From hot, expect a reading in the region of 330 Ohms. If your Blue Temp Sensor has not changed its resistance significantly, then it is at fault and should be replaced.
Once that's done, you can test the Blue Temp Sensor itself.
Locate the Blue Temp Sensor and disconnect its plug.
Repeat the test, this time testing the pins directly.
Confirm that the readings you got at the ECU are the same or similar to what you read at the Blue Temp Sensor.
If the readings differ, then the most likely cause is corrosion of the C191 plug (facelift cars only). Once that is ruled out, the fault must lie with the sensor itself.
Replacing
Spent a bit of fun time checking the blue temp sensor.
Only small annoyance was I couldn’t detach the ECU plug with the ECU in situ because there wasn’t enough spare play in the loom to angle the plug in order to free it from the clip on the right side.
So had to undo the 4 bolts to free the ECU
I discovered a piece of scrap paper sellotaped to the ECU with A05E written on it. No evidence of any tampering or interference of the unit.
Then I did the testing as described in Wiki.. Result indicates normal wiring and normal function of the temp sensor
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0bOdI3T ... ne_-_Brook
Only small annoyance was I couldn’t detach the ECU plug with the ECU in situ because there wasn’t enough spare play in the loom to angle the plug in order to free it from the clip on the right side.
So had to undo the 4 bolts to free the ECU
I discovered a piece of scrap paper sellotaped to the ECU with A05E written on it. No evidence of any tampering or interference of the unit.
Then I did the testing as described in Wiki.. Result indicates normal wiring and normal function of the temp sensor
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0bOdI3T ... ne_-_Brook
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paultv
- E30 Zone Squatter
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- Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:00 pm
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I guess if the car is getting air as you open the throttle - but it hesitates or stalls then I would assume that there is a fueling issue. Have you checked the idle mixture? you should have CO of 1.00 or at least between 0.8 and 1.2 ( do this at your local garage if you don't have a gas tester )
Has the red/blue stopper gone from the AFM? if so the mixtures probably been boogered about with.
Is your exhaust exit pipe clean or black and how are your plugs? pull one and check as this will indicate rich ( black) or lean ( whitish ) biscuit brown all good. I'd let the car idle for ten minutes then chech a plug.
Does your ICV buzz on ignition?
If you've had the fuel hoses off the fuel rail, are they back on the right way round?
oh yeah, check your distributor cap rotor and points - give em a good clean, get any corrosion off, make good and shiny - makes a grumpy car very happy! you'd be amazed!
Can't think of anything else right now as it's a bit early.
Paul
Has the red/blue stopper gone from the AFM? if so the mixtures probably been boogered about with.
Is your exhaust exit pipe clean or black and how are your plugs? pull one and check as this will indicate rich ( black) or lean ( whitish ) biscuit brown all good. I'd let the car idle for ten minutes then chech a plug.
Does your ICV buzz on ignition?
If you've had the fuel hoses off the fuel rail, are they back on the right way round?
oh yeah, check your distributor cap rotor and points - give em a good clean, get any corrosion off, make good and shiny - makes a grumpy car very happy! you'd be amazed!
Can't think of anything else right now as it's a bit early.
Paul
4th May 1990 325i Convertible.
BMW E30 Cabriolet Best Mod Ever:
https://bmwe30cabriolet-wdm.blogspot.com/
BMW E30 Cabriolet Best Mod Ever:
https://bmwe30cabriolet-wdm.blogspot.com/