Rusty Water????
Moderator: martauto
Hi Zoners,
I'm not quite sure if rusty water escaping from my exhaust is a good sign or a bad one..?
The water in my coolant tank is a bit rusty too..?
What does that all mean?
I don't have any overheating problems, temperature goes up and down as it should.
Any guidance would help a worrying lad as myself..?
Many thanks, Tripper
I'm not quite sure if rusty water escaping from my exhaust is a good sign or a bad one..?
The water in my coolant tank is a bit rusty too..?
What does that all mean?
I don't have any overheating problems, temperature goes up and down as it should.
Any guidance would help a worrying lad as myself..?
Many thanks, Tripper
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Grrrmachine
- E30 Zone Wiki / Team Member

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The wet exhaust means it's winter.
The rusty coolant means you've been very slack in replacing your coolant.
The rusty coolant means you've been very slack in replacing your coolant.
'89 325i Touring | Touring Resto Thread | In-Dash Screen install
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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Coolant change, at least, and hope that the head hasn't corroded too much in the meantime.Tripper wrote:
Full service due??
How old is the cambelt?
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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Cambelt change on a M20 is one of the easiest there is, and should be combined with the coolant change, since the radiator comes out to give room to access the cambelt. Water pump should also be changed at the same time, if its history is unknown.
All are easy DIY, but I have to agree with P_DIDDY that asking how to change the coolant doesn't exactly inspire confidence. Buy yourself a Haynes manual, have a read, and see if you feel confident to get stuck in.
You may be a competent mechanic in waiting with just no experience, or you may be like one of my brother in laws, who should never be allowed within ten yards of a toolbox.
All are easy DIY, but I have to agree with P_DIDDY that asking how to change the coolant doesn't exactly inspire confidence. Buy yourself a Haynes manual, have a read, and see if you feel confident to get stuck in.
You may be a competent mechanic in waiting with just no experience, or you may be like one of my brother in laws, who should never be allowed within ten yards of a toolbox.
Thanks Brianmooore,
Is there anything else I should change? I might put a picture up of my engine bay. You experts may notice
Some things I can easily miss...
Anything else will be noted as I'm making a list to ensure my cabby is ticking over for many years to come...

Is there anything else I should change? I might put a picture up of my engine bay. You experts may notice
Some things I can easily miss...
Anything else will be noted as I'm making a list to ensure my cabby is ticking over for many years to come...
- aimlessrock
- E30 Zone Squatter

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If she is a keeper and the history is unknown i would replace all the coolant hoses whilst you have the access.
Might also be a good time to check the rubber fuel lines in the engine bay as well.
Might also be a good time to check the rubber fuel lines in the engine bay as well.
E30 320i Convertible (1989)
190 Mercedes (1988)
"there is nothing more expensive than a cheap E30"
190 Mercedes (1988)
"there is nothing more expensive than a cheap E30"
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HairyScreech
- Engaged to the E30 Zone

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One thing, once the coolant has gone rusty once it tends to go brown pretty quick for many, many coolant changes after.
Sediment etc gets all over the place and is really hard to get out.
K-seal seems to cause similar problems even if cleaned out (as best as possible, horrible stuff).
Sediment etc gets all over the place and is really hard to get out.
K-seal seems to cause similar problems even if cleaned out (as best as possible, horrible stuff).
2.8 development thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=170822
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =viewtopic&
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =viewtopic&
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
M20s have a little known coolant drain plug, right at the back of the block, under the exhaust manifold. It's a 19mm hex. headed plug, and expect to lose some knuckle skin undoing it, but removing it and flushing water into the block via one of the hoses will help shift a lot of the sediment.
When flushing the system, it's important that you don't force water under pressure down through the heater from the top stub pipe to the bottom.
When flushing the system, it's important that you don't force water under pressure down through the heater from the top stub pipe to the bottom.
The zone is great for help and advice. Some top guys on here. Im a BMW specialist mechanic but think I'm on the wrong forum as I work on much newer BMWs haha. My only knowledge of the e30 is from a handful of customers cars I look after and my own of course 
Your all Top fellas!!!
All notes taken.. - is there a specific order to all this I should be carrying out in sequence?
Apologies for the many questions - but I'd really like to learn more about my bit-on-the-side... if you guys know what I mean..?
thanks,
tripper
All notes taken.. - is there a specific order to all this I should be carrying out in sequence?
Apologies for the many questions - but I'd really like to learn more about my bit-on-the-side... if you guys know what I mean..?
thanks,
tripper
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Draining the old coolant out is the first thing, and refilling with fresh coolant is the last thing, since for the whole of the rest of it, the cooling system will be in pieces.Tripper wrote:
All notes taken.. - is there a specific order to all this I should be carrying out in sequence?



