10 /40 semi synthetic oil witch brand is good
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oilman
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There are some decent ones in the group buy here:
http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... hlight=oil
I would look at the Fuchs 5w-40 or 10w-40
Cheers
Simon
http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... hlight=oil
I would look at the Fuchs 5w-40 or 10w-40
Cheers
Simon
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A1BMW325iSport
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vauxhall semi 10/40
been using it for years.
been using it for years.
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A1BMW325iSport
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i get 60% off as well cos i`m on trade club ;)
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oilman
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I have to state a couple of things here.
Firstly it's your car and money so use what you want however.
Have you considered how cheap this oil is? It probably costs less than 50p per litre to make - you can't even buy a decent base oil for that let alone an addative pack as well.
Secondly, this oil is designed for Vauxhalls, not BMW's and I'm pretty sure that it's not BMW Approved for good reasons. It simply would not pass the approval tests.
Finally, I would not put a cheap oil in my BMW unless I was selling it next week as it really doesn't pay in the long term. These cars require decent oils at the least and in most cases they require fully synthetic 5w-40's as specified by BMW.
Cheers
Simon
Firstly it's your car and money so use what you want however.
Have you considered how cheap this oil is? It probably costs less than 50p per litre to make - you can't even buy a decent base oil for that let alone an addative pack as well.
Secondly, this oil is designed for Vauxhalls, not BMW's and I'm pretty sure that it's not BMW Approved for good reasons. It simply would not pass the approval tests.
Finally, I would not put a cheap oil in my BMW unless I was selling it next week as it really doesn't pay in the long term. These cars require decent oils at the least and in most cases they require fully synthetic 5w-40's as specified by BMW.
Cheers
Simon
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Naa its about Ԛ£1.02 per litre to buy off vauxhall franchise, so probably about 10p is more likelyoilman wrote:I have to state a couple of things here.
Firstly it's your car and money so use what you want however.
Have you considered how cheap this oil is? It probably costs less than 50p per litre to make - you can't even buy a decent base oil for that let alone an addative pack as well.
Secondly, this oil is designed for Vauxhalls, not BMW's and I'm pretty sure that it's not BMW Approved for good reasons. It simply would not pass the approval tests.
Finally, I would not put a cheap oil in my BMW unless I was selling it next week as it really doesn't pay in the long term. These cars require decent oils at the least and in most cases they require fully synthetic 5w-40's as specified by BMW.
Cheers
Simon
Great put fully synthetic in a 130,000 mile beast, just watch it pour out and cause more harm because its so thin! The older a car gets, generally the more they leak, so trying to encourage this with very thin oil is generally not recommended, but if your BMW parts man said so, rush off and do it! Just bear in mind that it might be because he makes more money out of selling you the more expensive stuff(fully syn.)...
Viscosity is viscosity and a brand name is a brand name at the end of the day.
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A1BMW325iSport
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i stand by my advice for Vauxhall`s oil it is highly recommended,
doesn it matter bout the name its the quality/cost we are after at the end of the day.
doesn it matter bout the name its the quality/cost we are after at the end of the day.
guess what i've started pouring in that 3.5 that's coming out of my car karan? it burns/leaks a bit and i got fed up putting decent stuff in...Karan Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 7:08 am Post subject:
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i guess in a sh*gged sh*tter of an engine then crap oils are fine, but if u wanna keep the car put a good fullly synth in it, better at high temps when u rag it u see!
Tesco Value! 20/50 is actually in spec for that engine and this climate, and it only costs a little more per litre than the optimax going in the other end!
guess i'll get slated for this now... can i reiterate that the engine has always been a temporary solution and will be scrap as soon as i hoist what's in my sig pic into the bay!

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oilman
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Oh how wrong you areJon_Bmw wrote: Great put fully synthetic in a 130,000 mile beast, just watch it pour out and cause more harm because its so thin! The older a car gets, generally the more they leak, so trying to encourage this with very thin oil is generally not recommended, but if your BMW parts man said so, rush off and do it!
How is it that a synthetic oil is thinner?
Let me put you straight here before you get the wrong idea
A synthetic oil is ANY viscosity you want it to be. It's not the type of basestock (synthetic or petroleum) that determines the thickness of the oil, it is in fact the viscosity!
You can buy a mineral 10w-40, a modified mineral 10w-40 (semi-syn) or a fully synthetic (pao/ester) 10w-40 - They are all the same viscosity and have to meet API tests to prove the fact.
The difference is in the quality and basically synthetic is the best because it lasts longer and lubricates better.
Perhaps a few myths should be dispelled here
The Myths regarding Synthetic Oils
What are Synthetic Oils?
Synthetic Oils are fuel efficient, more fluid and resistant to thermal breakdown, they are constructed in laboratories using basestocks and special additive packages. They are specially formulated to meet and perform to standards set by API and ACEA as required by OEMÔš's.
Synthetic motor oils damage seals.
This is untrue. Why would lubricant manufacturers build products that are
incompatible with seals. The composition of seals present problems that all types of oils must overcome.
At the end of the day, it is the additive pack in the oil that counts. Additives are added control the swelling, shrinking and hardening of seals.
Synthetics are too thin.
This is untrue. In order for an oil to be classified in any SAE grade (0W-40, 5w-40,10W-40 etc) it has to meet guidelines with regard to viscosity or thickness.
For example, any oil with a viscosity of 10W-40 has to operate at -25 degrees centigrade and 100 degrees centigrade to pass these tests or it cannot be rated as a 10W-40.
Synthetics mean higher oil usage.
This is untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended for use in mechanically sound engines, that don't leak oil. In these engines oil consumption will actually be lower because of the lower volatility of Synthetics. They also have better sealing capabilities between piston rings and cylinder walls. Synthetics also have better oxidation stability. (They resist reacting with oxygen at high temperatures)
Synthetic Oils are not compatible with other oils.
This is untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials from high quality basestocks are fully compatible with other oils.
It is best to stick to the same oil for topping up that you have in the engine. It is best not to mix oils, as additives are blended for specific oils. When different oils are mixed additive pack balances can be upset so for the best performance, itÔš's better not to mix them.
Synthetic Oils produce sludge.
This is untrue. It is a fact that they are more sludge resistant than other oils as they are better at resisting high temperatures and oxidation. Because Synthetic oils have higher flash points, they withstand evaporation better leaving less deposits.
Synthetic oils can't be used with catalytic converters.
This is untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and other oils with regards to the components. Neither will damage catalytic converters.
Synthetic oils can void warranties.
This is untrue. No major manufacturers specifically ban the use of synthetic oils. More and more new performance cars are factory filled with Synthetic oils.
Vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications and recommended viscosities.
Synthetic oils will last forever.
This is untrue. There are some people that believe that synthetic basestocks themselves can be used forever. However, it is a well known fact that eventually the additives will break down and cause the oil to degrade. The additives in the oil are effectively Ԛ“used upԚâ€a by moisture, fuel dilution and acids. Regularly topping up the oil will help but sensible oil change periods are recommended.
Synthetic oils will protect an engine for far longer periods than non-synthetics.
Synthetic oils are too expensive.
This is untrue. It has been proven through testing that Synthetic oils do have longer drain periods and provide better fuel economy. Add this to reduced engine wear and better reliability then do the maths. They are in reality better value for money than other oils.
Why do they cost more? It's no gimmick, they are better!
Cheers
Simon
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synthetic, 10-40w
and dont scrimp
There are a few of us on this forum who have bought these high quality oils from Simon, and I for one can vouch for him, as I've had a few lengthy conversations with him about the viscosity, the make up of the additives, the polymers, and advantages of ester based synthetics, etc, etc.
Not everyone knows, or maybe wants to know so much detail, which is fair enough.
Simon was invited to this forum to provide advice to users about oils, as he appreciates there is plenty of crap sold out there.
And since he is in the business, give them an option to buy good quality oil from him.
We have had many discussions in the past and almost every month, we have a new 'What oil ?' type of thread, which then kicks off a debate (as this one is as well).
At the end of the day, remember, you have NO obligation to buy from him, but if you wish to spend a few quid extra and save yourself bigger bills later on, then put good quality oils in your engine.
Not everyone knows, or maybe wants to know so much detail, which is fair enough.
Simon was invited to this forum to provide advice to users about oils, as he appreciates there is plenty of crap sold out there.
And since he is in the business, give them an option to buy good quality oil from him.
We have had many discussions in the past and almost every month, we have a new 'What oil ?' type of thread, which then kicks off a debate (as this one is as well).
At the end of the day, remember, you have NO obligation to buy from him, but if you wish to spend a few quid extra and save yourself bigger bills later on, then put good quality oils in your engine.

325i Motorsport Edition convertible - gone, but not forgotten.
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oilman
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What you have to bear in mind is that we have a broad knowledge of oils, their makeup, the marketplace and the most suitable ones for your cars.
We don't just sell "top end" oils, we also have semi-synthetics by Silkolene, Fuchs, Castrol, Motul and others and I can say for sure that these cheaper oils are a darned site better than the "el cheapo" stuff out there for a fraction more money. Buy the best you can afford would be my advice, you will always benefit from a better oil unless of course the car is scrap in which case you're wasting your money!
Cheers
Simon
We don't just sell "top end" oils, we also have semi-synthetics by Silkolene, Fuchs, Castrol, Motul and others and I can say for sure that these cheaper oils are a darned site better than the "el cheapo" stuff out there for a fraction more money. Buy the best you can afford would be my advice, you will always benefit from a better oil unless of course the car is scrap in which case you're wasting your money!
Cheers
Simon
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oilman
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We recomend a 10w-40 semi (cost option) or a 5w-40 full synthetic (quality option).Adammcf wrote:I might use the remaining Vauxhall semi-synth 10W40 then as a flush when I do the first oil change when I get a 325 Sport.
What oil would you reccommend for a 90/91 325 engine?
I would only go BMW apporved and would look at the Silkolene Pro S 5w-40 or the Motul 8100 excess 5w-40.
Tech specs here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm
Cheers
Simon.
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Karan
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simon how do you rate 10w 40 magnatec fully synthetic, as this is what i have always used on my tuned 2.7, i know a full ester would be better cos of its high temp properties but i just wanna know if magnatec fully synth is any good
cheers
Karan
cheers
Karan
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oilman
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Magnatec is not a fully syn, it's a semi (modified mineral oil) I don't personally rate it. You can buy a lot better for the same money.
Cheers
Simon
Cheers
Simon
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I wish you posted this last week!oilman wrote:Magnatec is not a fully syn, it's a semi (modified mineral oil) I don't personally rate it. You can buy a lot better for the same money.
Cheers
Simon
I better ask before i dump the lot out of my sump..What is actually wrong with magnatec? i thought the specs on the container and of course recommendations from my helpful
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Simon13
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I bought some engine cleaner to put in with your old oil before you change it and it will clean all out the crap,stuff. It's wynns and is it a load of old cobblers like injection cleaner etc?!
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oilman
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Not keen on flushes, they can do more harm then good by over cleaning, so it can remove all those deposits that were put there by the bedding in process.Simon13 wrote:I bought some engine cleaner to put in with your old oil before you change it and it will clean all out the crap,stuff. It's wynns and is it a load of old cobblers like injection cleaner etc?!
Most flushes contain either paraffin or kerosene
Cheers
Guy.
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