urgnt 2.5 conversion..

Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:46 pm

dropped a 2.5 into my 318i, starts up fine and everything but the clutch doesnt work? bled it a few times just to make sure, changed the reservoir near the pedals and ive ran out of ideas?
help appreciated

Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:55 pm

What is happening when you press the pedal? Did you fit the clutch properly? Was it a working clutch? etc etc

Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:07 pm

are you sure youve alined the rod on the bk of the master properly you might but pushing it in to fresh air ?

Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:17 pm

Can be very difficult to bleed an E30 clutch if air is in the middle of the system, without the use of a pressure or vacuum bleeder.
Disconnect the outlet pipe from the master cylinder and get it bled properly to there first.

Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:18 pm

it feels like theres no pressure when you push the deal,and what rod would this be? thanks

Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:21 pm

my dads had it before where hes just left it over night and the airs made its way out? and ive already tried bleeding it after the master cylinder. thanks

Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:25 pm

abeazer wrote:my dads had it before where hes just left it over night and the airs made its way out?

Yes - the fluid gets full of very small bubbles. Leaving it 'till the next day allows the bubbles to collect into larger ones, which will bleed out by the usual methods.
There's also a method of connecting a hose between the front left brake calliper bleed nipple and the clutch slave nipple, then pumping the brakes to bleed the clutch system backwards.

Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:30 pm

ill have to post again in the morning after ive tried it, and ill try that if all else fails. definatley a bleeding problem do you think?

Wed Feb 23, 2011 6:57 am

was the clutch master taken off and bk on again ?
does the pedal feel spongy of just nothing there?

Wed Feb 23, 2011 7:25 am

IMHO the easiest way to bleed an E30 clutch is to remove the slave cyl, hold it vertical with the nipple at the top, open the nipple, sqweeze the pushrod in, shut the nipple let go of the pushrod, that will then extend on its own drawing fresh fluid through, open the nipple again and push the pushrod back in again, keep repeating and it wont be long before you have got all the air out.

Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:01 pm

right got he clutch working but theres no fluid coming out when you try to bleed it out the nipple? and also the battery wont hold its charge took it for a test run and it cut out, jumped it and it drove home but the lights were still flickering.
help appreciated

Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:24 pm

either ya batterys nackered of ya alternator aint charging

Fri Feb 25, 2011 6:29 pm

rev counter isnt working properly? goes ll the way round to the start again

Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:33 pm

anyone got a clue why my rev counter wouldnt be working properly?

Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:39 pm

abeazer wrote:anyone got a clue why my rev counter wouldnt be working properly?

The coding plug in the bottom right hand corner of the clocks needs changing.

Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:55 pm

any info on how its done? cheers

Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:01 pm

abeazer wrote:any info on how its done? cheers

Get a plug from a 6 cyl and take out the clocks, pull out the 4 cyl plug and stick in the 6 cyl plug

Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:18 pm

look at the plug in the bottom right corner of these clocks...this needs changing for a 6 cylinder plug

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E30-Clocks-/2 ... 3cb5b2a88f

Tel

Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:20 pm

bridgemond wrote:
abeazer wrote:any info on how its done? cheers
Get a plug from a 6 cyl and take out the clocks, pull out the 4 cyl plug and stick in the 6 cyl plug

No need to take out the clocks. Just remove the trim panel and the plug will be revealed.

Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:58 pm

what trim would that be? and where could i find a plug? thanks for the replys

Fri Mar 11, 2011 5:59 pm

Fri Mar 11, 2011 6:05 pm

i got a plug

its the pannel above the steering wheel an below the gauges theres 2 silver nuts that holds it on! if you drop the tray down in the foot well you can get to the nuts

Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:17 pm

rightttt ive got another problem
recently had the alternator refurbed and bought new battery
the cars been running fine for about 2 weeks
but now the cd players lights flicker to the base of the music and my battery keeps getting drained and my car wont start unless i jump it but then it runs fine
(recently had the same problem but the headlights also flickered and getting the alternator refurbed seemed to fix it)
thanks aiden

Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:25 pm

I'd start with checking the earth lead from the sump to the chassis rail, these are prone to corroding and though externally might look ok, the copper breaks down inside the cable causing flickering of gauges, CD players and such. Best to examine it in detail first, and if so, replace with a new one.

I'd also put a volt meter over the battery and check the voltage, should be around 13.6-14.1 volts whilst running.

Start the car and have it idling whilst you do this, but have everything off, fans, CD player etc must be off. If it's 13.6 or so to begin with, turn on your fans , lights , rear screen heater and CD player, whilst watching the voltage.
It should maintain the figure, if it drops to 12.8v or so your voltage regulator is gone and will need replacing again; that's if the alternator hasn't packed up completely, though if it has, I'm sure someone on the Zone has a working replacement for reasonable money.